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At long last we have the newly manufactured (for us) Z car floats in house ready for sale. The ZT-100 Reman will include the new floats. Sold individually they are $30 each. Float pivot pins are $1.00 and float bowl lid gaskets are $2.00. Don't forget to include these items with your order if you need them. We also have new composite free floating floats for the 38 mm Hitachis. The 38 mm float pricing remains at the $30 level where they have been for several years. Bruce Palmer 503-587-9800 Sales@ztherapy.com

This thread is mainly for me to document the process of refreshing this 1972 Datsun 240z that I was able to acquire with the help of Carl Beck. About a month back Carl posted a Facebook post on onto the Datsun groups, and I immediately inquired about the car. He gave me the owner's contact number, and after a month of jumping through hoops I was finally able to seal the deal and the car landed here on the west coast. It was last registered in 1988 and was a 1 owner car until I purchased it. Backstory is that the previous owner bought it in California enjoyed it here and drove it to Ohio. It sat in the back of his barn until now. Owner has passed away and left the car to his family who hired a liquidation company and...skip all the hoops.. it's mine now. Future plans for it are to follow Carl's advice here: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/21063-waking-the-sleeping-beast/ This thread is worthless without some photos! Hopefully some time later this week, I can post some photos of it unloading and of it after a quick rinse, but for now....

Fantastic find! Man, I hope you decide to keep its stock appearance. You can see from my car I'm a sucker for that 'just drove it off the lot' look. If I had seen your car before I bought mine, I might have fought you for it! You found a winner - may you enjoy it for a long long time!

So I just purchased a brand new Harada intake from the same person on eBay who is selling the used ones from Sanyo for $230. The new Harada was $450, came with all of the linkage, gaskets, etc. His shipping was incredibly fast. I received it from Japan in about 5 days and I live in Austin, TX. That was faster than some of the stuff I have purchased on ebay that was coming to me from other places in the US. The seller was also great at communicating as I had some initial questions for him before I made the purchase. One of the things I really like about this manifold, as compared to the Cannon that I am using now, is the built in return spring mechanism. Hopefully this will let me eliminate the external ones I am using now. The throttle rod is also massive as compared to the one on the Cannon. The Cannon rod is 5/16" / .31" while the one on the Harada is 10mm (or .394 inches). I am also hopeful that this beefier rod will help the throttle action and also provide a smoother return to idle. It's out being powdercoated now but I will pick it up later today and begin the fitting process. Here's a picture from the ebay ad. Mike.

It looks like the flaw is below the top piston ring. It is also at a the low part of the stroke so it will have no significant impact apart from some extra oil reaching the chamber. Have the shop take a look. I am sure they could TIG it, knock it down then bore/hone through it. Some water in the block may help reduce heat effect from TIG .

If you are concerned about the depth, try Play-Doh to make an impression. It looks like it is below the ring travel and may not affect operation.

I'm more confused by the blanket statements from post #4. That's what started all the discussion: I'm guessing what you really meant to say was: The AFM only provides mixture measurement and correction until it maxes out full open. And if the Z is like a lot of other cars, a full open maxed out AFM could occur as low as 4500 RPM if the throttle is full open. And if the AFM maxes out full open, beyond that point the ECU calculates IDC entirely based on RPM, TPS signal and CTS. Note that I've not tested this for confirmation, so I cannot attest as to the accuracy of the statement, but it sure makes more sense to me and I'm thinking it's at least a lot closer to what you really meant?

I can't remember exactly what that large vacuum valve above the left side carb is... but you don't need it. ( Some sort of Emissions device ) I also used to own a couple of early 240Z's. Both 71's with early style SUs. My street car had a local regrind ( Shadbolt M445 ) that is similar in specs to the Shnieder 274. 10 to 1 CR, Ported and Polished head, Cannon 2.5" exhaust system. Revved to 7,000 RPM. Idled just fine at 1,000 rpm, with a pretty heavy " rumpita rumpita " though. Sweeeet. . Took some distributor tweaking though. No AC however.... For the AC throttle kicker you may be better off get an Idle " kicker " solenoid off of a mid 70's or early 80's GM carburated car. These are an electrically operated solenoid that extends and retracts to raise the throttle speed. They are designed for a 100% duty cycle and are very reliable. Cheap too. Much easier and cleaner to install than all of the Vacuum diaphragm junk. Since the factory AC system uses an electrically operated Vacuum valve ( Called an FICD ) to actuate the " Kicker " vacuum diaphragm, you can just take the electrical wire that actuates that FICD valve and run it direct to the GM electric solenoid. Fabricate your own bracket and you have eliminated the most troublesome and unsightly parts ( vacuum parts ) of the AC idle " kicker " circuit.

What a difference a new clutch makes !!! Recieved the new carrier and was actually able to adj the clutch to spec's. Can't thank Dave at power torque (perfection clutch) enough for his great customer service. My girl shifts smoother than ever and with the new rebuild on the motor and transmission, is a joy to drive. Next up is the suspension and exhaust. Great to have people who actually care about their product and customers

Factory part. Originally made for the R180 front diff in the 720 4x4 pickup. Later extended across the R180 line to help reduce gear oil venting out the breather.

Mine sat for 6 years with a half tank of fuel and here's what I found after dropping the tank. I had to walk home a few times before I figured it out.