Alright, another little progress update via pictures as usual.

First up, cleaned up the gas filler area before reinstalling the tank. Satisfying before and after.

Don't say I don't listen to yalls advice. Installed a fuel pressure gauge. Aeromotive makes a good gauge, and they were on sale.

She's back on her feet. Hot dog!! Really happy with the vintage color scheme, faded and worn though she may be. Really happy with how the gold looks with the silver and white letter tires. I'll be lowering her a bit in the future to reduce that gap as well, but for now, not bad! We're making the most with what we got.

Probably didn't NEED to do this, but it would've been on my long term to-do list anyways so what the heck. Adjusted the valve lash. Man, I forgot how much I hate this task. It's not so much the task itself, but the horrible posture you have to hold to do the job. My back!!😬Overall, each valve was about 1 or 2 thousandths loose. Not bad at all. And now it's done and within spec.

Was getting ready to take it around the block when I was reminded of this minor issue. Held together with hopes and dreams🫣

Thinking about how me and the previous owner were blasting around his neighborhood with this tie rod. Looks fine.

Fixed. Yes, I see my sway bar bushings. Extra crispy. They're on the list, but still just trying to get it smogged first...

Make-shift alignment setup. Listen, it looks rudimentary, but I'd say it get's you 80% of the way there. Big Alignment Industry has been suppressing this method for years 🤪

And here's where we're at now. As previously mentioned, I'm trying to set a baseline for the AFM air bypass screw. Screwed it all the way out to count the total number of turns, only to see that I'm missing the o-ring that's supposed to be on the end. The threads are numerous and and very fine, so I doubt I'm getting much of a vacuum leak due to the missing o-ring, but obviously I'm going to find a replacement nonetheless.

Took this picture from Atlantic Z website, and you can see where there should be an o-ring...

Hopefully my next update will include some updates on how it's running and driving, along with some smog test results. I won't hold my breath for a passing result, but we gotta start somewhere...

Edited October 9Oct 9 by kcpope

Head over to ACE and grab a few different sizes and go from there

Raise the front up with ramps or jack stands when you're doing the valves or pretty much anything. It'll help when you try to stand up the next day.

For the valves did you do a hot or cold adjustment?

Cold.🥶 And by that I mean an ambient temp of 95.

I know it’s not the absolute most thorough option, but this was just a “make sure the valves weren’t grossly tight or loose” situation. Which thankfully, they weren’t.

45 minutes ago, kcpope said:

Cold.🥶 And by that I mean an ambient temp of 95.

I know it’s not the absolute most thorough option, but this was just a “make sure the valves weren’t grossly tight or loose” situation. Which thankfully, they weren’t.

Good enough. I did my first hot adjustment earlier this year only because I wanted to make sure I did everything by the book in order to pass smog. Looking forward to your own results with that whole ordeal. I’m sure you will be fine.

Edited October 10Oct 10 by AndysPlit

Quick question. Got the car running today and I’m going through the basic tuning procedure.

FUEL PRESSURE. I’m at 38PSI at idle. Also, it drops to zero immediately after turning off the engine. I know that’s not technically correct. Would that indicate a faulty fuel pressure regulator? Or is it more likely my aftermarket fuel pump that might not have a “check valve” like the OEM pump?

Lastly, would this fuel pressure scenario possibly cause an overly rich idle mixture? I can tell she’s running very rich at idle. Or is it completely unrelated?

That sounds like a blown/cracked diaphragm in the FPR. Take the vacuum hose off of the FPR and see if it's wet with gas.

31 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

That sounds like a blown/cracked diaphragm in the FPR. Take the vacuum hose off of the FPR and see if it's wet with gas.

I removed the FPR vacuum line. No evidence of liquid gas in the line, but it does smell like gas inside the tubing.

Is there any sort of on/off vehicle test for the FPR?

Edited October 13Oct 13 by kcpope

Leave the hose off and run the fuel pump by removing the starter solenoid wire and turning the key to Start. See if any liquid comes out of the nipple.

58 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Leave the hose off and run the fuel pump by removing the starter solenoid wire and turning the key to Start. See if any liquid comes out of the nipple.

Makes sense. I’ll do that tomorrow and report back.

Thanks👍🏼

@Zed Head Nice call!

Sure enough, very slow dribble of fuel coming from the vacuum port on the FPR. Too bad the only source for these FPRs seems to be zcardepot and MSA at well over $100. Woof. Anyone got a clever solution?

I also finally understand (from much reading of the FSM) that proper fuel pressure is critical to achieve a correct A/F ratio. The ECU is essentially "dumb" and simply opens and closes the injector based upon a set amount of time, regardless of how much fuel pressure is being applied. Too much fuel pressure = rich condition. Too low fuel pressure = lean condition.

Proper fuel pressure should be MANIFOLD VACUUM PRESSURE (a negative number) + 36PSI

For most healthy engines that will mean you should see about 20PSI of fuel pressure at idle. Mine is showing about 38PSI at idle. Way too high, which would explain my rich idle condition. The little bit of raw fuel entering the FPR vacuum line also isn't helping.

Anyways, I think I'm understanding that correctly. Off to source a FPR...

Edited October 19Oct 19 by kcpope