@Zed Head Yup, I have plenty of first hand experience buying "new" only to find out the the oem "used" stuff is far better. I'll see what I can scrounge up for a coil...

One more thing checked off the list, new EV1 connectors for the injectors, cold start, AAC valve, and thermostat housing sensors...

Thermostat housing connector harness...

Extra crispy!

Old vs new...

Green means good, right?;)

New connectors going together...

I'm just as excited about the new rubber boots being pliable again...

All 6 injector connections done...

Still waiting on the injectors to come back from the refurb shop. Also bought a used and hopefully original Bosch 280zx coil off eBay. Seller couldn't be bothered to put a multimeter on it, so we'll see when it gets here.🤞

Also still working on my wheels side quest. My research leads me to believe the original gold color on the 280zx 10th anniversary wheels is golden mist metallic (690). Ordered up some custom 1K spray cans from R&E Paint and will topcoat everything with their matte 2K clear. I'd like to maintain the dull "not shiny" look that the freshly blasted aluminum already has. Really not looking forward to masking them off, but oh well. Here's the end goal, thanks ChatGpt...

Edited July 29Jul 29 by kcpope

Cool, used 280zx coil arrived today. Primary measures 1.0, secondary 10700, both nicely within the FSM spec. And cheaper than anything new at $25. Appears OEM, made in Japan, Bosch 00200, “use with electronic ignition” markings.

Not the prettiest on the outside, but correct on the inside👍🏼

One more thing off the list.

Picture request!

For those with 280Zs, can you show me what this connection should look like? Positive battery cable pigtail to fusible link. Mine was just twisted together and wrapped in electrical tape. I’d like to see what it should look like before I attempt a repair 👀

Thanks!

Look through these photos of the 355 mile 280 on Bring a Trailer. @Zed Head taught me the car is great for reference.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-39/

Thanks @siteunseen 1978 is an odd year, they added another link. Two green links, side-by-side, with plastic connectors on the ends. Looks like they can't be had anymore, at least from the usual sources.

Not sure what a PO did to yours, it looks like the correct links might be below that mess you're holding. Those two white wires look like they'd allow too much current if there was a short. I'd fix that.

Here's the one wire setup for before 78.

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/wiring/engine-room-(from-aug-76)/45

https://www.google.com/search?q=24022-U8700

9 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Thanks @siteunseen 1978 is an odd year, they added another link. Two green links, side-by-side, with plastic connectors on the ends. Looks like they can't be had anymore, at least from the usual sources.

Not sure what a PO did to yours, it looks like the correct links might be below that mess you're holding. Those two white wires look like they'd allow too much current if there was a short. I'd fix that.

Here's the one wire setup for before 78.

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/wiring/engine-room-(from-aug-76)/45

https://www.google.com/search?q=24022-U8700

Yes, the 78 is a bit different setup than the 355 mile BAT car. Everything I find just shows the two white wires "disappearing" inside the sheath that's wrapped around the positive battery cable. I can only assume they tap into the positive cable somehow. There's really nowhere else they could go. I suppose I'll just tie them back in with a proper connection and be done. Here's a couple reference pictures of 1978 cars from BAT...

to show what I mean...

Edited August 12Aug 12 by kcpope

The second one looks right. It's just power supply to the EFI system. Injectors and computer. Didn't realize that they used two big white wires from the fusible link to the positive terminal. I had a 78 parts car but didn't remember that.

If the two green ones are there then I'd just fix that twisted tape setup.

Edited August 12Aug 12 by Zed Head

@Zed Head Yep, the 2 green wires (fusible links) are present in my setup. I'll clean up the connections and call it done.

Another little side quest complete…

I wanted to do a quick scrub down of the undercarriage and wheel wells to remove decades of accumulated desert dirt and sand. Simple green ftw. I oddly enjoy these tasks 😆 

All cleaned up. Peep the OEM springs with the red dot. Rubber shock bellows have seen better days…

Also on my list was to clean out the lower front fenders. We all know this is where they like to rot away. Again, I was super pleased with what I found. First of all, all lower fender bolts came out relatively easy, whew!

Plenty of dirt and accumulation in there. I think I’m the first person to open them up. Spider webs and eggs as far as the eye can see…

Here’s everything that came out of there. Prolly 2lbs of dirt. Makes sense why these things rust out in the fenders…

Great news, as close to “no rust” as you can ask for in a Z! The inner fender reinforcement is fully intact and in great shape. Cleaned it out real good with compressed air. Having had a 240z with plenty of rust in the past, I’m thrilled with how dry this 280 is, both sides look great.

Next side quest will be getting those wheels painted up…

Edited August 15Aug 15 by kcpope

Did you blowout the drain on the passenger's side of the wiper cowl?

On 8/15/2026 at 12:27 PM, siteunseen said:

Did you blowout the drain on the passenger's side of the wiper cowl?

Yessir, that was next on the list. And it didn’t disappoint. It’s amazing how much debris gets in there over 50 years. My lower back is screaming after leaning over that cowl for a couple hours😅

before…

After…