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I'd rather save this oil pump, but...


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Well that wasn't so bad...

I  took my trusty angle grinder and sliced the housing at the point of the stuck bolt, and it popped right off.  

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20220320_171004.jpg

Thanks for all the info and advice gents.  The tips you gave me really did help even if I didn't take the exact approach recommended.  The best part was learning how ubiquitous these oil pups are so I can easily get a replacement.

Edited by ArcticFoxCJ
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7 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I used the Melling 152 turbo manual transmission oil pump on mine. It stays on the high side of the gauge. Seems like it was $60 in 2016 from Advance Auto. Probably a $100 now. :ph34r:

Found on google.com...

non turbo L28 (75 to 83)
model M90 = 2 gallons/minute at 491 rpm

turbo L28 with automatic trans
model M111 = 2 gallons/minute at 491 rpm

turbo L28 with manual trans
model M152 = 2.25 gallons/minute at 491 rpm

Now, I found the M90 on Amazon but it insists that this part number won't fit my 1977 280Z.  Is that just because this is an upgrade that still works fine?

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41 minutes ago, ArcticFoxCJ said:

Now, I found the M90 on Amazon but it insists that this part number won't fit my 1977 280Z.  Is that just because this is an upgrade that still works fine?

Yes, I have the 152 on my '77 too. I read about that upgrade at the very beginning. Also turbo head bolts are a reccomended update. I don't think you can buy any others now anyway, just turbos.

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Glad you got the pump off without damaging anything other than the pump. Good work with the grinder. 220. 221.... Whatever it takes.

So about the Melling pumps:

The M90 is for the manual trans cars without a turbo.
The M152 is for the manual trans turbo cars and it has the same pressure limit as the M90, but it pumps higher volume.*
The M111 is for the AUTO turbo cars. It has not only higher volume, but higher pressure limit at the top end.

Even though my car is non-turbo, I'm running the M152 in my car. Works great in my tired engine with worn old clearances everywhere.

* They achieve the higher volume by using longer rotor gears in the M152. About 20% longer maybe? I've got pics if someone really wants to see it.

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11 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Oh, and make double dog sure you get all that grinding grit cleaned up before it gets inside your engine.   :excl:

Well the reason I was taking it off in the first place was to take the block to a machine shop to get it reconditioned anyway.  When I got the car compression was a joke and even though it was probably just stuck rings, I wanted to start off fresh.

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