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L28 Timing chain

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I am going to replace the timing chain and related components. Its on an engine stand, oil pan off, head on. Any tips or tricks I should know?

Put a zip-tie around the new tensior to keep it together while you get the chain on.

I could only find a ZX kit when I built my 2.4. Worked great but it has different hole spots on the guides. I used the inner holes and got the chain really snug. From what I read you shouldn't be able to see any of the metal on the tensioner when it's all together.

Get a new oil pump while you're at it.

Edited by siteunseen

  • Author

It says in the fsm that there are 42 "links" between marks. I have 20 "links" = 40 pins plus one on either link to the sprocket marks = 42. Is that the right was to look at it? mine were also in hole #1. I am replacing with new parts.

On 3/9/2022 at 11:19 PM, Yarb said:

Put it on TDC before you touch anything.

………TDC Compression stroke.

1 hour ago, ennisdavis said:

It says in the fsm that there are 42 "links" between marks. I have 20 "links" = 40 pins plus one on either link to the sprocket marks = 42. Is that the right was to look at it? mine were also in hole #1. I am replacing with new parts.

The shiny links will be on the same dot or number corresponding with the cam spocket and crank. Don't forget your oil slinger when you go to putting it back together.

  • Author

I think when everyone says 42 links, they mean roller pins. There are only 20 "links" between the marks. Double that =40, add 4 =44. Does not add up

If your sprocket has the notch in it you can just use the notch and groove.  Keep the tight side tight.

  • Author

Don't see a groove in sprocket. Tight side is driverside of engine, right?

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