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Transmission fluid 280z 1978


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Don't consider heat as a 'last resort' strategy.  Instead, make it part of your basic strategy.   
As mentioned by someone else earlier, don't use a flame source (i.e. don't use a torch).  Instead, use an electric heat gun (inexpensive, easy to find, easy and fairly safe to use).  I would suggest that you heat the area around the plug for about 2 minutes.  Then you can go with whatever wrench strategy you decide to use.   
The square-head type of plug (whether male or female) isn't designed for high-torque, so it's not too hard to round off the corners if you get sloppy.  Make sure that you choose a wrench that fits as closely as possible.  In fact, a pipe wrench (a big one) may prove to be the most suitable because these are designed to self-tighten (if you use them properly, that is).  Another option is an 8-point ('double-square'), 1/2"-drive 17mm socket fitted to a 24" breaker bar.  The type of socket that I'm talking won't be available at your local tool store.  You can order one from Toolpan.com ($7.50), but it may be a few weeks before they can ship. 
No matter what wrench you choose, one of the challenges can be positioning.  With a four-sided plug head, a pipe wrench can only be installed in four positions -- i.e.  stepping around the plug head at 90-degree intervals.  An open-end wrench is much the same, although they're designed so that the wrench end is about 10 degrees off centre, meaning that if the plug head is oriented at 12 o'clock / 3 o'clock / 6 o'clock / 9 o'clock then the wrench end will be at (for the 3 o'clock example), either 2:45 or 3:15, achieved by flipping the wrench over.  The double-square socket on a non-ratcheting breaker bar will let you adjust the breaker bar position at 45-degree increments.

I luckily own a heat gun, I’ll make sure to heat the bolt prior too removal, a head indiction bolt remover would be nice if they weren’t serval hundred dollars. I will look into getting a good impact socket to fit the transmission bolt, and invest in a larger wrench. Currently I have the most basic set of wrenches and a medium size breaker bar which isn’t much bigger than the 3/4in. When removing the starter bolt I had to add a pipe to the back of the wrench just to get the bolt to turn.

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11 minutes ago, dylancorrea1 said:

I’ve never really trusted them, but I heard they are better for removing bolts than actually tightening, the PO used a impact wrench all over the place. Since everything looked forced and was stripped (starter, radiator, the protective pan under car, bolts in trunk).

Too many ugga-duggas.

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I'll add to the other comment on accesability to the plugs with the impact gun. It'd be tough to get in there with a good seating. Maybe if you used an extension you could access the drain and you're right about removal only. 
Good luck with whatever you decide. Cliff

Ill go with a regular wrench to assure I don’t break anything, I don’t want more problems thwarting my process or ruining my wallet. Power tools still scare me, just the thought of stripping or breaking anything. Thank you.

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2 hours ago, dylancorrea1 said:

a good impact socket to fit the transmission bolt

There is no such thing as 'a good impact socket to fit the transmission bolt'.  In fact, there is no such thing as 'a good socket to fit the transmission bolt' -- unless you buy the special 'double-square' socket that I recommended in my earlier post.  A regular 6-point or 12-point socket is guaranteed to ruin a square bolt head.  You'll be better off using a big pipe wrench.

Also:  When you're using the heat gun, you need to focus on the aluminum casing around the bolt, rather than on the bolt itself.  The idea is to make the casing expand.  It's not the same as when you're trying to break a bolt free where the threads are corroded.  In this case, you're simply dealing with a big bolt that's been over-torqued into a giant, thin-wall aluminum casting.

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