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New, to me anyway, Diff mount


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I have come across a few different options for diff mounts but I hadn’t seen this one discussed. Has anybody tried this mount?  Seems like it would transfer a lot of vibration throughout the car. I’m out of luck with the typical OEM type mount due to my car’s setup. 
Thanks

83A52E6B-4D21-4E42-AC56-4464A3FC7AEB.jpeg

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I was looking at the install orientation for a OEM diff mount over the weekend and i saw that someone was using that diff mount here.

https://www.zcarblog.com/2021/04/23/performance/parts-z-car-garage-cv-axles-for-chris-1970-datsun-240z.html

IMG_6405.jpeg

 

Might be able to message them on: https://www.instagram.com/kikcaffine/ .....Not sure if they are on the forum.

What keeps you from using the OEM mount?

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Somebody on CZCC posted about their using a solid mount not too long ago.  It probably transmits diff howl to the cabin, especially if you also have polyurethane crossmember mounts.  The race car guys have pictures of the bolt holes tearing out to to metal fatigue, but that's probably just a high-torque/abuse problem.

MSA sells them also.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2296

The Technoversion mount is always worth considering.

https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html

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My youngest son installed a solid diff mount on his '76 280Z several years ago and had to remove it after a few years of use as it had torn the sheet metal of his "differential case mounting front member" (to use the FSM term) - didn't damage the bolt holes in the chassis but tore the cross member up around the bolt holes. We had to find him a new cross member and an RT style mount. And YES! The solid mount transferred a LOT of noise and vibration into the cabin. 

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5 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

I was looking at the install orientation for a OEM diff mount over the weekend and i saw that someone was using that diff mount here.

https://www.zcarblog.com/2021/04/23/performance/parts-z-car-garage-cv-axles-for-chris-1970-datsun-240z.html

IMG_6405.jpeg

 

Might be able to message them on: https://www.instagram.com/kikcaffine/ .....Not sure if they are on the forum.

What keeps you from using the OEM mount?

I have a 10/70 build 71 model with the monkey motion shifter which I believe pulls everything forward a bit and the mounts changed slightly with the “B” type transmissions. From what I gather mounts that fit my setup are impossible to find. I’m just now digging into this as my next project so I’m sure I have a lot to learn. Thanks for the links, I’ll check them out. 

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The RT mount really replaces the strap across the top more so than the diff mount itself. A nice upgrade from the old strap set up. 

I might have a used "A" style diff mount if you don't mind a used part. They are hard to find new. 

 

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36 minutes ago, Trnelson said:

I have a 10/70 build 71 model with the monkey motion shifter which I believe pulls everything forward a bit and the mounts changed slightly with the “B” type transmissions.

It's only the diff mount that changed.  Nissan created new parts to move the diff back so that it was aligned with the wheel centers.  A new mount, mustache bar and propeller shaft.  You can tell if you have the early style by eyeballing the half-shafts.  If they aren't at 90 degrees with the wheels they're the early style.

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27 minutes ago, Terrapin Z said:

The RT mount really replaces the strap across the top more so than the diff mount itself.

It depends on how you use it.  If you use the GM transmission mount on the top you can leave the Nisan bottom mount out completely.

image.png

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@Zed Head I know a lot of people just run that upper mount with good success but I have a dumb question; what happens if that poly material fails? Does the diff just drop, and the driveshaft holds it up?

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It would probably just drop down onto the stock diff mount crossmember since you still have to bolt that in since it's also part of the forward control arm mounts. 

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11 hours ago, Zed Head said:

It depends on how you use it.  If you use the GM transmission mount on the top you can leave the Nisan bottom mount out completely.

image.png

I just have the stopper on mine. I expect this would also transfer noise through the car more so than a stock rubber piece, just not as bad as the solid one ^^

I am sure it would make quite a racket if that poly piece broke / tore while you were driving with the drive shaft bouncing around. Like when the rubber part goes and you get the "clunk" but worse. IMO

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I took a peek at my existing mount and it appears to be in decent shape. Would it be worth trying to replace just the arrester strap to stop or reduce the clunk or bite the bullet and go for the RT mount?

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And I’m reminded of the words of wisdom spoken by my father “son, nothing is as easy as it seems”...

Just for poop and laughter I think I’m going to try a new arrester strap. The part is inexpensive and I have access to a lift to simplify installation. 

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Late to the party. I have the same setup as you had. What ended up working for me was the new Diff Mount....the RT Mount (though I modified it so that it hit the top of the diff in the right place)....and a later model Mustache Bar. I can't remember if I used the later model drive shaft but I think I did. It's been around 6 months and I have so many different parts from all different year models laying around. The mod to the RT mount isn't rocket science, I have a welder but am by no means a "welder". It took probably 15 minutes. You will see what it needs if you go this way. The top busing needs to be moved to land on the diff correctly and not to interfere with the parking brake cable best I can remember. 

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