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Took the radiator out cause it looked super dry on the inside and rusted found this.. 

what the hell do you do for this... 

It was blowing white smoke while the car was running for a little bit 

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Not sure what format you pasted there but those videos have no visuals on my computer.  A picture might be better.

image.png

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5 minutes ago, 280zdude said:

That’s in the engine block not the radiator 

 

That’s all rust and old coolant 

image.jpg

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I would say rust and no coolant.  Thats what happens when you dont run coolant which has corrosion inhibitors.  Clean it out and run it

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2 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I would say rust and no coolant.  Thats what happens when you dont run coolant which has corrosion inhibitors.  Clean it out and run it

Yeah I’m just scared the water channels are clogged.. just took the radiator out and it’ only flows when tilted but still not well 

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Put a hose in the top and see how fast it drains out the bottom.  That will be a clue.  It should flow a lot of water through the cooling channels.  There are still radiator shops out there that can boil them out and pressure check them if it's slow.

I messed around with my bad radiator for a couple of years.  The $120 I spent on the Murray cheapo was well worth it.

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Thanks I did that. I vacuumed out whatever I could from the top before doing it just to make sure I don’t push rust in than I need to.. 

I’ll probably use some coolant flush tomorrow. And let it sit in there for about a week or two.. cant really drive it for now..

im doing research on head work and flat top pistons.. I was thinking about going full stroker but the LD28 crank is just no where to be found but in fully built engines.. from rebello racing and shops of that nature. 
 

After the flush sits for however long I decide to leave it in maybe watch for a color change.. I’ll take the head off and assess the pistons and the walls.. 

plan to take the pistons out and honing the walls.. new flat top pistons and rings 

racing cams Idk anything about this.. but I’ll learn.. no one really talks about where to get these.. machined cams?? Idk 

and get the head shaved and ported for better flow.. 

I’ll probably leave the crank alone and just do a diy little polishing there.. 

Engine management - I read that you need a stand alone system in order or the stock efi does not like the top mods. I’m going to stay EFI unless. There is a really good reason not to. I really want to try to keep the car as stock as possible with decent present day power.. mega squirt/msa pro something like that was the standalone management system.. 

proper dialed in tune.. 


let me know if you guys have any suggestions on this stuff. I’m in Southern California so if you have a shop you would recommend or a professional I can get advice from I would appreciate it! 

with all this I’m guessing the car will run around 200+ hp.. I don’t believe it will be under whelming with the weight of the car. I’m hoping it will be around the same as my 2017 q60 in regards to butt dyno torque in a straight line.. 

 

Edited by 280zdude

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There are sources for the V07 crank but they're not cheap at this point. Be prepared head work is very expensive but provides the greatest improvement in these engines. The factory EFI will not adapt to hardly any engine mods. Aftermarket would be required.

Do you have to pass SMOG?

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2 hours ago, Patcon said:

There are sources for the V07 crank but they're not cheap at this point. Be prepared head work is very expensive but provides the greatest improvement in these engines. The factory EFI will not adapt to hardly any engine mods. Aftermarket would be required.

Do you have to pass SMOG?

I’m probably not doing the full 3l stroker it sounds really cool to say but doesn’t make Sense for power to price ratio.. head work should suffice with relative power.. I guess the reason people do carbs is so they don’t need a computer.. 


I do but there are ways around that 😬

Edited by 280zdude

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7 hours ago, 280zdude said:

I’m probably not doing the full 3l stroker it sounds really cool to say but doesn’t make Sense for power to price ratio.. head work should suffice with relative power.. I guess the reason people do carbs is so they don’t need a computer.. 


I do but there are ways around that 😬

Yes, there are but it can make it more difficult if you need to pass the visual inspection. If you have an inside track, then no worries.

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Just now, Patcon said:

Yes, there are but it can make it more difficult if you need to pass the visual inspection. If you have an inside track, then no worries.

Wdym inside track? 

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3 hours ago, 280zdude said:

Wdym inside track? 

An inspector who would pass it without questions or something similar

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Is there any ways to take off the electrical connectors without breaking them. I can’t seem to find a way to take the little metal clip inside off 

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On 1/9/2021 at 3:18 PM, Zed Head said:

It's difficult.  Get some picks, a small screwdriver, a little piece of wire.  I think that anyone who has done a few has developed their own special method.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=Pick And Hook

image.png

Yeah I ended up ordering new clips for almost everything in the engine bay.. they are really brital.. I’ll used those as well and it still broke 

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Coolant line Runs over top of the intake to a plate under the air bypass valve. Loops back to the coolant system.

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10 minutes ago, Yarb said:

Coolant line Runs over top of the intake to a plate under the air bypass valve. Loops back to the coolant system.

Where can I get one no one seems to know what it is msa motorsports said they don’t have it 

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I’d post it up to the forum for advice. I’m in a warm climate and removed it from the system to clean up the intake. So your probably missing the steel water line that runs in front of the timing cover down to the lower radiator water inlet on the RH side of the engine as well. The FSM will help you identify the system components.

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He has a 77 so that is actually the fitting for the coolant line to the plate under the AAR.

Looks like #52 here - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-head/52

Probably hard to find.  Many of the threads on the engine are BSPT.  Might be able to get an adapter and use an NPT elbow.  Or people have had success just jamming NPT in to BSPT holes.  Risky.

https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-pipe-fittings/brass-and-bronze-pipe-and-pipe-fittings/type~adapter/thread-type~bspt/

Browse...https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-pipe-fittings

Or - @Terrapin Z

 

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My mistake called it “air bypass” instead of “aar”.  Plugged it with brass fitting NPT I believe 1/4”.

Edited by Yarb
Miss quote

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