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I’ve replaced the bushing in the shifter with a brass bushing to get rid of slop, I noticed that if I’m in high RPM, 4-5k in 3rd, there’s quite a lot of vibration coming from the shifter itself, could this be due to the brass bushing? Or should I be inspecting the mount for play? 
 

im trying to reduce the vibrations coming from the car, perhaps my engine mounts should be inspected as well. I switched over to an RT diff mount and it made quite a lot of difference in the rear end. 

 

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Can you feel shifter movement in 3rd gear at lower RPM?  Put slight pressure on it forward and backward.  The shifter has a fairly direct path to the third gear coupler and gears.  With the brass bushings a transmission guy could probably tell quite a bit about the transmission's condition through the shift lever.

Could also just be that the bushing o the bottom of the shift lever is worn, letting the lever wiggle more.

Edited by Zed Head
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I’ve been quite shocked how much transmission noise came and went as I changed bushings, shift knob size and weight, shift lever lengths, etc over the years. A LOT of noise and vibration comes from the trans, made worse I’m sure by internal wear and slop.

A friend of mine related an interesting story that shows that Nissan recognized this as an issue. First we know about the ZX shifter bushings that have the plastic bushing plates with the embedded spring to absorb vibration, and with at some or all of the C type shifters, if you foolishly cut the shifter rod off to lengthen, or shorten, or change the angle, you find that the shift rod is actually a composite of a small internal metal rod that connects into the transmission selector hole, then a laminated rubber coating over that, then the outer metal shift rod that you see and feel. Makes welding really fun, and you will lose all that nice isolation....

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Ill try to get a video of what I'm talking about after work today. I noticed that there are a lot of vibrations in the car, it was after i got into my buddies 92 e34 m5 last night, very smooth and stable ride..

Crap now i gotta show my messy car :blink:

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1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

Could also just be that the bushing o the bottom of the shift lever is worn, letting the lever wiggle more.

Over the years it seems like someone posted about packing that area with grease and it helped more than they expected. I dunno? Lots of reading on here. LOL

Check the hole that pin goes through too. It could be all wallowed out. 

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Your written description would be good to me, better than videos anyway.

Tell us more.

Is it worse with pressure on the shift rod or better? If it's simple as the rod worn out applying pressure would quieten that. 

Edited by siteunseen
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  • 11 months later...
On 4/1/2020 at 11:49 PM, heyitsrama said:

I’ve replaced the bushing in the shifter with a brass bushing to get rid of slop, I noticed that if I’m in high RPM, 4-5k in 3rd, there’s quite a lot of vibration coming from the shifter itself, could this be due to the brass bushing? Or should I be inspecting the mount for play? 
 

im trying to reduce the vibrations coming from the car, perhaps my engine mounts should be inspected as well. I switched over to an RT diff mount and it made quite a lot of difference in the rear end. 

 

Hi guys, any update on this? I've got a similar issue, lots of wiggle from the shifter in 3rd. Only while driving, nothing with clutch disengaged. Transmission was recently rebuilt by a reputable shop.

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Posted (edited)

@Geoff's 240z can you get a video?

Im still inspecting this issue, I ordered some OEM bushings for the shifter, i hope its not the brass bushing that I made that is causing the issue. Currently the rattle is mostly gone, but the gearbox pops out of 5th if i take it over 95mph. I don't like that at all, can be dangerous.

 

I also plan on replacing the u-joints, which i should probably start today >.>

Also wheel bearings.. **** i should have done this when i had it all apart.

Edited by heyitsrama
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Went to install the OEM shifter bushings and found something! 

It looks like there is a leak at the shifter. I think I need new o-rings here. Maybe this is contributing due to the grease being washed away. No drip spots where I park though...

Do I have to drop the gearbox to service this? Or can it be done from up top? 

14904414-010A-449D-8A96-F7D39C558728.jpeg

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A couple of things can be the source of your rattle. Unbalanced drive line components like the propeller shaft, a flywheel/clutch group or even a failing bearing in the transmission. Worn out engine and transmission mount don't help either.

The end result is anything with excessive tolerances will rattle. Your gear selector being a prime example. The two bushes for the selector locating pin and the cup on the end of the selector should be replaced. That should fix the rattle.

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Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, EuroDat said:

A couple of things can be the source of your rattle. Unbalanced drive line components like the propeller shaft, a flywheel/clutch group or even a failing bearing in the transmission. Worn out engine and transmission mount don't help either.

The end result is anything with excessive tolerances will rattle. Your gear selector being a prime example. The two bushes for the selector locating pin and the cup on the end of the selector should be replaced. That should fix the rattle.

I’m kinda looking for an excuse to pull the gearbox and replace the flywheel, clutch, and all the ujoints while down there. The clutch and flywheel are really unknown, I threw it all together from parts of another Z I had.

Last time I was down in the shifter I did the brass bushing modification to the shifter, and I like the way it feels, I’m going to switch to OEM ones on another shifter I have, and replace the plastic cup end.

What’s really bugging me is this leak, and if I have to pull the gearbox out to remove the selector, I should start looking at getting a flywheel lightened up. It looks like TEP offers lightened flywheels, I wonder if Rebello offers them, their semi-local. 

Edit* spoke to someone a Rebello over the phone, they suggested to just order a new one online that is pre-balanced and lightened... The hunt begins I guess.
 

Edited by heyitsrama
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The seal that is leaking has part nr. 32850H (32858-U6702) and only costs a couple of dollars at any nissan dealer. Bad news is you will need to drop the transmission and remove the rear extension housing to get to it.

 

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Posted (edited)

@EuroDat alright well I guess it has to be done, anything else that is a "while your down there" fix? Ive noticed that the gearbox will pop out of 5th at times, i wonder if its caused by an imbalance, or by something warn in the gearbox. Also at times I cant get it into reverse, I have to put it into 3rd clutch out a bit, then it will slip into reverse.....

 

It looks like some people suggest a Fidanza Flywheel (#143281) paired with an Exedy Clutch (#6009 might be the 225mm not 240mm have to check)

Edited by heyitsrama
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you may want to take a hard look at the tail housing bushing while you are in there. Check for side to side  play in the drive shaft where it goes into the trans.

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7 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

@EuroDat alright well I guess it has to be done, anything else that is a "while your down there" fix? Ive noticed that the gearbox will pop out of 5th at times, i wonder if its caused by an imbalance, or by something warn in the gearbox. Also at times I cant get it into reverse, I have to put it into 3rd clutch out a bit, then it will slip into reverse.....

 

It looks like some people suggest a Fidanza Flywheel (#143281) paired with an Exedy Clutch (#6009 might be the 225mm not 240mm have to check)

Btw. The brass bushes will rattle if you have play in the pin. That is why I don't reccomend them.

Screenshot_20210327-065814.jpg

If you are doing anything with the selectors, I would change the checking springs (32831N) and the seals.

The oil seal and o-ring in the speedo adapter. Basically all the seals and o-rings would be on my list. You might want to give the transmission a bearing kit. That would be the time to do all the seals.

Like Dave said, check the play in the rear bush before you do anything with the transmission. Nissan don't sell them, but you can order a replacement through Omega Machine & Tool p/n:71411.

The problem you have with getting into reverse in most probably a blunt reverse idler geer. They tend to wear round over time. Have you tried going to neutral , releasing the clutch to spin the transmission and then try reverse again? If you disengage the clutch and try reverse straight after, it might chatter a bit while going in, but it should go in every time. That test will confirm a worn idler gear.

 

Edited by EuroDat
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14 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

 

It looks like some people suggest a Fidanza Flywheel (#143281) paired with an Exedy Clutch (#6009 might be the 225mm not 240mm have to check)

The Fidanza will mate to either the 225 or 240mm clutch.   The Exedy  6009 is the 225mm clutch kit.    i think the 6032 is the 240mm kit.

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13 minutes ago, S30Driver said:

The Fidanza will mate to either the 225 or 240mm clutch.   The Exedy  6009 is the 225mm clutch kit.    i think the 6032 is the 240mm kit.

I went for a standard 280zx 2+2 clutch and a lightened flywheel out of the same car. That gave me a normal clutch peddle feel, but with a heavy duty clutch.

I think the Fidanza is about 11lbs compared to 23lbs for the original 225 and 240mm flywheels. The Fidanza will be touchy off the mark.

My flywheel is about 16lbs, but the 240mm clutch is a little heavier than the 225mm.

It doesn't add any horsepower, but certainly adds to the driving pleasure.

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Posted (edited)

Gearbox is almost pulled, just waiting on a hand to help pull it out. Took almost 3 hours, but I spent time removing the half-shafts...

I remembered why I did not take out the ujoints, it feels like there is no play in the joint, but perhaps by hand is one thing, but load of the motor is another. 
 

@Dave WM @EuroDat i don’t feel side to side movement of the driveshaft in the tail end of the gearbox, but I’ll inspect again when it’s out of the car, anything else to inspect?

the OEM rear sway bar location for an early 260z is not good, the damn thing is always in the way of the 12mm bolts for the driveshaft. I wonder if there are relocation kits to move it to the back of the support brackets that hold the rear of the control arms. 

Edited by heyitsrama
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I pulled the clutch out today, i noticed this on what looks like is the brass crank bearing. I dont see any marking on the shaft of the gearbox, I checked for endplay of the driveshaft  and i did not notice anything.

I was going to use the 1983 FSM to help guide me tear the gearbox down. http://xenonzcar.com/s130/FSM/1983/MT.php

Being that this is a close-ratio gearbox I would think it would be the applicable manual to use. Are there any known problems/incorrect directions with the service manual?

 

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5cbb.jpgUNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_5cba.jpg

 

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That looks like a clutch disc that wasn't centered. They couldn't get the tranny to mate up so they used a bolt to pull it together. The damaged probably didn't affect anything

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