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Pitch of l28 280z motor


questionzcar

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19 hours ago, questionzcar said:

The only problem is I just dropped the subframe. Do I need the subframe installed and aligned to do this proper?

What Datsun car are you working on?  Because in the 240z-280z you can't drop the subframe, it's a uni-body.  Can you post some photos so we can see what you are talking about?

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22 hours ago, Zed Head said:

You should have mentioned this from the beginning.

Side to side, the engine is fine.  Front to back is your concern and, as grannyknot said, your driveline angle is important, although it's not the driveshaft angle that matters the most.  It's the match between the rear diff pinion shaft and the engine's crankshaft, they need to be parallel.  You can jack the ends of the car up to get the oil to drain, if that's a problem.

There are how-to's all over the internet.  Here's some examples from the past.  jmortenen's link to the hybriz site has a bunch, in detail.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/43993-differential-laser-alignment-tool/

Quality information thank you

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4 hours ago, grannyknot said:

What Datsun car are you working on?  Because in the 240z-280z you can't drop the subframe, it's a uni-body.  Can you post some photos so we can see what you are talking about?

He might have one of the aftermarket R230 mounts.  Some of them have problems, it would be interesting to see it.

If so, doing all of the realignment at the diff mount would be best, probably.  The engines should be fine.  If the engine is moved it will affect other things, like the throttle linkage, the shiftier angle., cooling fan orientation, etc.

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I have a complete modular z32 rear subframe with custom fabricated mounting plates. It utilizes four through bolts and can be dropped in a matter of minutes. I am also struggling with whether or not to have the mounting plates heat treated? The holes are snug currently but after extended use and road vibration will they start to reem out? Will a quench and temper process reduce this wear? But there's a risk that the extreme heating and cooling may cause the plates to fracture, especially since there are holes drilled in them. Anyone have experience with this?????

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Who made it?  Sounds like you're using the mustache bar and crossmember mounts.  Four points of contact. 

Never heard of anybody doing this.  Kind of on your own, except for general expertise here.   Mounting holes, generally, are only used for the bolts to pass through, friction and clamping force should hold the metal in place.  The hole edges should not see any side forces, in a good design.

Still need a picture.  Where's your phone?

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Here it is, the large bolt going up reuses an original hole as a point of reference and the one going down is the correct placement for the z32 subframe. The subframe aligns perfectly and the plates follow the integrated frame of the unibody. The bolts holding it up are temporary and eventually I'll weld it proper. The front mounts were a bit more tricky but it all worked out. I was even able to utilize the original strut towers and had room for the oem gas tank/ spare tire. I ended up going the fuel cell route tho so not pictured.

IMG_0060.jpg

Edited by questionzcar
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