l24 blocked engine build - Few Questions

[Jason240z]

2 hours ago, Patcon said:

I believe the 4mm total is the amount of distance that the tensioner has the ability to accommodate. I don't know that you could take all 4mm off the bottom of the head

 

Neither do I, however thats the only place, other than the acutal block you can remove material that'll effect chain tension.

[Zed Head]

3 minutes ago, Jason240z said:

if you read, it'd be one or the other.

It matters as I want the original block.

I read.  You wrote a lot of conflicting things.  Still seems like much work, getting all of the parts and operations to fit together properly, just to keep the numbers matching.  If you modify the block is it really original? 

Good luck.

[Jason240z]

22 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I read.  You wrote a lot of conflicting things.  Still seems like much work, getting all of the parts and operations to fit together properly, just to keep the numbers matching.  If you modify the block is it really original? 

Good luck.

can you tell me what was conflicting?  A few ways of doing it, if its the original block that comes with the car, its original. Especially at just 1mm overbore.

It all fits and works together well, its not just a collection of random parts.  A l28 blocked stroker is just a little too done now days.

[Zed Head]

You listed 240+240 crank, then L28 crank.  E31 head then "worked head" with no casting numbers.  Domed pistons and squish.  Then you implied that I had not read what you wrote, like it was all clearly described.  You have a big list of parts that might or might not work well together.  You can't use all of the parts you listed in the same engine.  That's what I meant by conflicting. 

I'm not really in to numbers matching that much, but a modified engine isn't really original, to me.  It's either as it came from the factory or it's as it was modified twenty years ago.  Time capsule style.  I'd pull the numbers matching engine and hop up an L28.  Then you achieve both goals.  

 

[Jason240z]

1 minute ago, Zed Head said:

You listed 240+240 crank, then L28 crank.  E31 head then "worked head" with no casting numbers.  Domed pistons and squish.  Then you implied that I had not read what you wrote, like it was all clearly described.  You have a big list of parts that might or might not work well together.  You can't use all of the parts you listed in the same engine.  That's what I meant by conflicting. 

I'm not really in to numbers matching that much, but a modified engine isn't really original, to me.  It's either as it came from the factory or it's as it was modified twenty years ago.  Time capsule style.  I'd pull the numbers matching engine and hop up an L28.  Then you achieve both goals.  

 

Apologies, to be clear, i've a 240 and a 280 crank, in the screen shot, you can see i've used the 280 crank.  Every part listed gets used, except the 240 crank. They all work together, its took a while to get them.

It is as modified in period.

I don't want a big displacment 260ish bhp engine.  I'm proud of my cars condition and the fact its 40odd years old still with the original block. ?

 

[Zed Head]

The general thoughts about these engines, from the guys that have built a few, is that the big power increases are all released by work on the head.  Apparently the intake ports are the main constriction.  So the cam and the RPM potential won't be available unless you get the head ported.  The fine details of squish and getting oddly specific pistons to work won't matter without head work.  As I understand things.

But, the standard 15% correction indicates that you'll need about 180 HP at the crankshaft.  So, not terrible, seems achievable, from what I've read.  Your path seems somewhat convoluted I guess, to me.  It seems like flat tops, a worked head, some high RPM parts, and a cam might get you there.  I don't really get the need for the domes and the crank offset work.

Anyway, I think that Diseazd is the guy who destrokes his engines to get high RPM screamers.  He has built several.  He would know more, he can shoot me down.  I'm just a words on the page guy at this point.  Good luck.

@Diseazd

 

[Jason240z]

I've an e31 head that needs work, or a head thats been nicely ported with big valves etc.  New valve guides/seats etc also. If I find the cash to stick with the e31(matching etc) that'll be properly worked over.

[Diseazd]

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

The general thoughts about these engines, from the guys that have built a few, is that the big power increases are all released by work on the head.  Apparently the intake ports are the main constriction.  So the cam and the RPM potential won't be available unless you get the head ported.  The fine details of squish and getting oddly specific pistons to work won't matter without head work.  As I understand things.

But, the standard 15% correction indicates that you'll need about 180 HP at the crankshaft.  So, not terrible, seems achievable, from what I've read.  Your path seems somewhat convoluted I guess, to me.  It seems like flat tops, a worked head, some high RPM parts, and a cam might get you there.  I don't really get the need for the domes and the crank offset work.

Anyway, I think that Diseazd is the guy who destrokes his engines to get high RPM screamers.  He has built several.  He would know more, he can shoot me down.  I'm just a words on the page guy at this point.  Good luck.

@Diseazd

 

Pretty much nailed it Zed Head. I prefer the P90/P79 head shaved down and shimmed up to get 10 to 1 CR minimum. A high duration, high lift cam (I run 17 degrees static advance on all 5) with performance valve springs to handle the rpm. Swirl valves help the engine breathe....I run SU’s and love their simplicity (can’t seem to step up to trips)....they work amazingly well for all my engines, through full rpm (up to 7500) with no sign of not being able to adequately feed them. The only thing I think would really bump them all up is CR. If I could run 13 to 14 to 1 CR on pump gas, I would. All 3 of the different engine set ups that I’ve built are a blast. Like kids, it would be hard to say which one I love most!

Edited August 16, 2018 by Diseazd

[240260280]

If you have the timing components off and are rebuilding, you do not have to use shims. Simply be sure to remove all slack in the chain (as normally done when installing these components) then check the timing mark on the cam sprocket at TDC. You can use the 3 adjustable holes in the sprocket or even jump a link to get the timing marks correct.

[madkaw]

l would shave the block. Just make sure you attach the timing cover to shave it also.

.020 can be adjusted for with the chain. Degree your cam .

Im at 150 rwhp now with less goodies . 

 

 

Edited August 17, 2018 by madkaw

[Zed Head]

OR http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12f02/10-2042

[Patcon]

5 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

OR http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12f02/10-2042

He evidently has one of those if I read the original list correctly