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The forward mounted sway bar can bind in certain situations. The rear mounted bar is a better option. I would suspect binding on the bar or rust at the mounting points broke it.

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3 hours ago, Patcon said:

The forward mounted sway bar can bind in certain situations. The rear mounted bar is a better option. I would suspect binding on the bar or rust at the mounting points broke it.

That’s what I suspect.

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2 hours ago, Mike mcdade said:
New R200 with 3.94 gears being prepped for install. Another day for sure.
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 @240260280 would approve of the colour... or he formerly would have!

Edited by wheee!
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I'm not familiar with that pump. What is it's pressure rating and why did you bypass the fuel dampener?

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The fuel sending unit on my 76 cleaned up nicely in EvapORust (best stuff ever), but failed when I tested it with a multimeter. ZcarSource here in Phoenix refurbished it nicely. If it matters, I can try to find the receipt, but I can say from experience that 280z fuel senders just don’t exist.

Out of curiosity, has anyone tried a 240z sender in a 280z? They seem to be readily available, and I wonder if maybe the only thing you would lose is the fuel warning light (which often seems to not work very well anyway).


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I looked everywhere for a new sending unit on my 77...no dice. I soaked mine in a acid bath and it cleaned up nicely. It then passed the resistance test but is not working in the car. Could be a actual gauge problem. The tanks are a lot different in the 240z and the sending unit arm is a different length. I imagine it would work but likely not accurate. What did your pay to have yours refurbished? I remember it being pretty costly. The cheapest I found was a mom and pop place that specializes in old sending units in NY that wanted to charge $150 plus shipping.


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I'm pretty sure you can short the two wires together and the gauge will go to FULL as a way to test the gauge it's self?  Maybe more knowledgeable people will verify.  It's been a lot of years since I did my '77 tank refurb.

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I actually have a new sending unit for my 77.. My gauge only reads half full, but it hasn't bothered me enough to drop the tank and replace the sending unit.

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On ‎11‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 6:58 PM, siteunseen said:

I'm pretty sure you can short the two wires together and the gauge will go to FULL as a way to test the gauge it's self?

That is correct. The gauge should read F if the sender wires are shorted together.

Just make sure you're shorting the correct two wires together. Don't do something like accidently short your fuel pump wires together. Make sure you have the fuel gauge wires.   :excl:

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Thanks Captain, I wasn't 100% on that.  Another thing I'm not sure about but it seems like I've read where someone replaced the O-ring on a '77 sending unit through the the inspection cover in the hatch?  Would/could the unit be replaced without dropping the tank?

Thanks and have a good Thanksgiving. I see where it's cold up there, more than usual.  

Cliff

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I haven't personally confirmed, but my understanding was that the 77-78 sender unit could be removed through the access hole in the rear hatch. I don't know about other years, but I believe 77 on you don't have to drop the tank (or even drain it) to do that kind of work.

3 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Thanks and have a good Thanksgiving. I see where it's cold up there, more than usual.  

Thanks bud, and you too!! Yes, it got way colder way quicker than it's supposed to be here. In fact, we got a bunch of snow middle of last week, and it ended my Z driving season with very little warning. I thought I was going to get a couple more weeks, but they salted the roads. I guess there's still a possibility that if we get a couple non-freezing rainy days it could clean off the roads enough to at least take it out and get some gas so I can circulate some stabilizer.

As it sits now, it was a big surprise... Tank is pretty much empty and there's no stabilizer in it.

We were supposed to get just a dusting of snow followed by an inch of rain that would have washed away any salt they put down. But that's not what happened. Instead, we got four inches of snow and very little rain at the end of the storm. Roads are covered with salt and I got kinda stuck behind the eight ball.

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So, was able to pull my sending unit out on my 77 from the rear hatch.  Before this discussion i thought they all we like this.   I bought a new o-ring and locking ring when I put in it back in.  I’ve read somewhere to be careful pulling off the wires from the unit as they can fracture at the connection easily.  I didnt have a problem.  I know they changed the deck lid configuration in the middle of 77.  I have the deck lid that curves upward towards the taillight versus the standard flat deck (wish I had the flat decking) .   

Edited by Av8ferg

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12 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

So, was able to pull my sending unit out on my 77 from the rear hatch.  Before this discussion i thought they all we like this.   I bought a new o-ring and locking ring when I put in it back in.  I’ve read somewhere to be careful pulling off the wires from the unit as they can fracture at the connection easily.  I didnt have a problem.  I know they changed the deck lid configuration in the middle of 77.  I have the deck lid that curves upward towards the taillight versus the standard flat deck (wish I had the flat decking) .   

Did you take any pics of that?

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Ok I’ve been gone for a few months. Spring time means time to start working on the Z again.

 

good progress, I had the R200 rear end installed. Gas tank has been dropped off for cleaning.

 

 

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On ‎11‎/‎21‎/‎2018 at 10:33 PM, Av8ferg said:

So, was able to pull my sending unit out on my 77 from the rear hatch.    I bought a new o-ring and locking ring when I put in it back in.

@Av8ferg, Where did you get the O-ring and lock ring for the fuel sender? I'd like to pull mine out and figure out why it's not accurate, but I would like have an O-ring and lock ring on hand before I take it apart. I'm assuming if I have new ones here, I'll be able to re-use the old ones.

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I was able to reinstall both half-shafts today. Pretty easy work. The gas tank may need to be replaced, the radiator shop I dropped it off at said the varnish is too gunked up. They will try one final time to clean out the tank. May need to find a new gas tank.

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2 hours ago, Mike mcdade said:

The gas tank may need to be replaced, the radiator shop I dropped it off at said the varnish is too gunked up. They will try one final time to clean out the tank. May need to find a new gas tank.

 

 

I had a rad shop "boil" a tank twice with no success. They didn't want to try anything else other than their vat.  I used Muriatic acid  and it did the trick but it tends to start rusting again really fast unless you neutralize it quickly.  If the feed and return lines are clogged, paint thinner works well also.

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