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Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build


duffymahoney

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Well, overall, I think the good news is that the problem has been defined and several solutions have been offered.  The reason for the power loss seems clear and it should definitely be possible to remove that problem.  I'd just try SteveJ's solution at the ballast resistor first.  It's simple and it will most likely work, proving the circuit, then you can decide if you want to go farther.

 

I learned something about the Nissan ignition switch illustrations.  I need to go out and see how they do them today.

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1 hour ago, SteveJ said:

You don't need the diodes. What I gave you was a very simple way to wire. You said you aren't using the GW wire for the tach, so all you would need to do is land the GW and BW wire at the same place in the engine bay or replace the terminals on them now for a male/female bullet. Why do you want to do 10 times more work?

I guess I don’t get that. I will try to wrap my head around it. 

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1 hour ago, SteveJ said:

Here is the connection in my car of the GW and BW wires near the coil in the engine bay. 

20220829_191043.jpg

The 2 pin connector in the center stack is easily identified by the T shape with BW and G wires connected to it.

Which black and white is that?

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52 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Earlier I said that the Accessory pin would be powered if you did that.   I think that I misunderstood how the switch works on the inside.  The diagram is misleading.  It looks like a circuit illustration but really it just shows what's connected to Battery at any position of the switch.  Sorry about the confusion.  If column #4 was connected to column #2 you would not be able to use Accessory alone, without having power to the the Ignition circuit.  Therefore they must not be connected.

 

Is there an effort here to keep the original wires intact?  Seems odd to have powered wires run all the way in to the engine bay that don't actually serve their original purpose.

I think that you could connect the pins on the back of the switch and achieve the same result as connecting them in the engine bay.  A simple back probed jumper at the connection.

 

If I connect behind the switch, when I turn to on wont the starter turn over?

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On 8/25/2022 at 11:36 AM, duffymahoney said:

Brand new. But one of the rivets wasn’t set firm enough. . 

 

B0D2C03F-8775-409D-967E-1AA08F293578.jpeg

Here's something funny though.  This number is for a later model switch.  Not a 240Z switch.  So, G/W and B/W are already connected at Start (I assume, like the 280Z switch chart).  Maybe just getting a 280Z switch will solve the problem.  Time to plug it in and see what happens.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=48750-e7705

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58568-duffys-171-series-1-240z-build/?page=36#comment-644653

 

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You're saying that you tried it and it works?  Or the wire ends fit?  Can't tell.

Did it not work before?  Is that that same part number of switch?  The one I quoted is the one with the broken pin.  You got another, not clear where.

Let's tie this thing up.  

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16 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

You're saying that you tried it and it works?  Or the wire ends fit?  Can't tell.

Did it not work before?  Is that that same part number of switch?  The one I quoted is the one with the broken pin.  You got another, not clear where.

Let's tie this thing up.  

Tried it and it worked fine. I would have to make the wiring nicer. But happy it worked. 
 

all of my switches are the same. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I finally got my car remote tuned. I had a few settings I didn’t understand, totally wrong, then my biggest issue is my iac. The haltech ecu doesn’t like my balance bar setup. I won’t give up. But I ended up plugging it for my road tuning. 
 

First impressions is wow. The car feels so fast. Even peels out a little, which seems crazy for a bone stock 2.4L. Wot passes sound magical. I ended up using Animal Tuning, who works for haltech and tunes on the side. 

I have dual o2 sensors, 1-3 and 4-6. 1-3 needed about 5% more fuel to obtain the same afr. Which was a pretty cool feature. 

Next is more wot passes and making sure AFR is on to protect the motor. 

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Now that my ITB is running nicely. Should I try my SK / OER inner fits?

Poor google translates to power torque of the concave fast limits improves. 

Power torque in the medium and low speed range is impoved. 

Sort of like a jet nozzle. They come in 30, 34 and 38mm.

 

I have 8x 38mm and 4x 34mm 

7FB9491F-2A2F-4951-8488-18B3CB086CD1.jpeg

1A1CB376-1CB8-4400-9173-D24DD16A4F91.jpeg

42C07A74-9F65-4257-A205-55A2F753A5F2.jpeg

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Running a air box for two reason, dirt and mainly heat. What you don't see in this pic is the 4" intake tube is now mounted to back side of the front grill. screen filter in the tube at the radiator brace and a 4" inlet turbo waterproof nylon screen at the front end of the tube (grill)

ITB horns are beautiful with chrome screens on the ends and  look awesome when the box is off but under hood temps can vastly exceed coolant engine temps. My intake air sensor  (mounted at the front end of the box) reads constantly half of the coolant temp. 160 coolant temp, 80 air intake. It's not forced air but the air draw at speed from a 4" tube at the grill is cool and abundant.  

 

 

20220525_102200_resized.jpg

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4 hours ago, Blitzed said:

Running a air box for two reason, dirt and mainly heat. What you don't see in this pic is the 4" intake tube is now mounted to back side of the front grill. screen filter in the tube at the radiator brace and a 4" inlet turbo waterproof nylon screen at the front end of the tube (grill)

ITB horns are beautiful with chrome screens on the ends and  look awesome when the box is off but under hood temps can vastly exceed coolant engine temps. My intake air sensor  (mounted at the front end of the box) reads constantly half of the coolant temp. 160 coolant temp, 80 air intake. It's not forced air but the air draw at speed from a 4" tube at the grill is cool and abundant.  

 

 

20220525_102200_resized.jpg

Gorgeous engine bay! I can't cover my stacks, seeing them is part of my love for ITB.  On my list to do are the custom stack filters (like singer) and then a belly pan that directs fresh air to the horns.  

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6 minutes ago, Patcon said:

If it ain't broke, don't break it...

Now if you had dyno time that might be a different story.

Low rpms stop to just rolling stumbles a bit.  Could be 100 things, but just trying this.  My brain thinks it should help low end torque.  

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50 is low here (maybe three days out of the year), went EFI to eliminate the choke and the warm up process.

What you've really created is a similar cable cruise control from the Datsun Roadsters. 2000's have a knob that pulls and twist locks on the dash for pedal free cruising on highway.

Tried it a few times with Roadster, downside the engine heat can stretch the cable so upon disengagement idle speed off the freeway can be very interesting. 

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30 minutes ago, Blitzed said:

50 is low here (maybe three days out of the year), went EFI to eliminate the choke and the warm up process.

What you've really created is a similar cable cruise control from the Datsun Roadsters. 2000's have a knob that pulls and twist locks on the dash for pedal free cruising on highway.

Tried it a few times with Roadster, downside the engine heat can stretch the cable so upon disengagement idle speed off the freeway can be very interesting. 

I am using the 240z hand throttle system.  On my pedal.  

 

It was 41 here this am, soon it will be 20-32 in the am, then warm up to the 50-60s during the day.  Then soon it will snow and the z will go to sleep. 

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