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Hauling a Z on a trailer


Mike

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I will soon be making a trip to Oregon to pick up my Z for a 250 mile trailer adventure.  Unfortunately there's snow in the forecast, so, it might not be as soon as I want.  Anyway, I've already found a few threads on this subject, but, nothing explains the proper procedures to do this correctly.  Do any of you have photos or advice for the trip?  I'm planning to rent a U-Haul car-hauler.  Here's one of the threads I found:  

 

I did see a few tips:

  1. Nose first
  2. Use the provided tire-straps in the front
  3. Cross brace the rear end with ratchet tie-downs

I'm a bit concerned there will be some gravel on the road so I'm not too excited about winter towing.  But, if I may not have a choice at this time of year.  Does anyone know if it's a good idea to put a car cover on before making the trip?  I would think the wind would cause some paint scratches.  I'm not too excited about rain, if I run into it along the way.  Appreciate any advice you guys might be able to help me with.  Thanks!

Mike

 

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Cliff had success loading his Z onto a open trailer.  As far as a car cover I don't know that I would suggest that.  You're right in thinking the wind pushing on a cover could act as a abrasive on the paint. 

I've seen car haulers use a stick on material before but I don't know where to get it. It usually goes on the front hood, fenders and windshield.  Another plan would be to rent a big enough covered truck to haul. Just strap down on the wheels.

Edited by gwri8
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Don't put a car cover on if it is going on an open trailer, the front of the cover will be pinned against the car and the rest will repeatedly flap against the paint. When you take the cover off there will be splotches all over the car where the shine has been sanded off.

Edited by grannyknot
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I've done it many times with my race car, buying/moving cars and helping my friend move Zs over the years. You can put some tape on the car like a like of people do for track days. I wouldn't put a cover on it. It'll just flap in the wind and probably do more harm than good. Your first two pics look good but #3 has the car too far forward. I cross brace in the front and rear. What kind of truck are you using to haul it? I've been using a 2006 Dodge Ram Quad Cab Hemi 1500 and it'll do the job with ease if you position the car correctly on the trailer.

Chuck

 

Edited by cbuczesk
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In pic #6 the car is centered because he has a tire rack, wheels/tires and a big storage box at the front. He's also using an SUV so he can't have as much tongue weight. You want the Z a little forward on most open trailers to keep the weight forward just a bit as shown in pics 1&2.

I keep my race car as far back as I can in my box trailer because I have so much stuff up front.

Chuck

 

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Here's my car on a U-Haul last year.  The U-Haul and other rental trailers are pretty tongue heavy when empty and the vehicle then loads very far forward.  I suspect the tongue weight on my factory hitch was substantially over the 500# rating.  We made it to Memphis and back with no issues but I have since joined with my son-in-law on the purchase of a car hauler so I can better balance the load the next time.

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I had a good experience using the U-Haul car transporter like Mr Arnett shows above.  My $.02 worth, park the truck and trailer going down hill before you load the 240.  It lowers the chances of scrubbing where the ramps meet the trailer.  It's a close fit so make sure and have someone watching your tires and the center of the trailer (don't try it by yourself, trust me).  Drive it for about 10 or 15 minutes on the highway then pull off and retighten the straps.

They pull so good you'll' forget it's back there, they have trailer brakes but still you don't want to run up on an almost stopped car.  Park under an over-pass if it starts hailing or something but with the car being so small and tucked in behind the tow vehicle it'll barely get wet if it's just a normal rainfall, I ran into one during my trip.  I set the cruise on 75 and turned up the radio after about 30 minutes, it's a breeze. 

Glad you are getting your Z back where it belongs. :)

 

 

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Found the material I mentioned earlier.  I've never used it so I can't vouch for any of them, but I see them used a lot on new car transports.  I guess price would be my first criteria,  but I'm pretty cheap.  There is probably a picture of me in the dictionary somewhere under that word. LOL

http://www.transportwrap.com

http://www.mastershieldprotection.com/xport/

https://www.fellers.com/fellers-shopping/cat/special-use-vinyls/sub/paint-protection/set/auto-wrap-shipping-protection-film

This is thicker stuff (6mil)

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/shrink-wrap-film-6-mil-14-x-150-79172.html

Edited by gwri8
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Thanks guys!  I appreciate the help.  I'll leave the cover off and do what I can to put the trailer on a small hill for loading.  I am picking her up from my storage unit so most of the place is flat.  If I have a problem I can probably grab my big jack for the truck and lift up the rear end (if I have clearance problems).  @jfa.series1 and @siteunseen, since you have experience with the U-Haul trailers, do you have any advice on securing the rear end of the Z when it's mounted on the trailer?  I noticed the U-Haul trailer is open in the center so I'm assuming there are going to be mount points where I can use some ratchet straps.

I found something called an axle strap on the Internet, I may look for a set of these for the rear end.

50XX62X-6-AS-KIT-8T.jpg

I also found this photo of a possible mounting solution underneath the U-Haul trailer.  I am glad to see they have D-hooks on the center part of the trailer.  Just not sure where to mount these on the Z.  We will see when I get there.

DSC00471.jpg

As far as the tow rig, I'll be using my Lexus (Landcruiser) 100 series.  Here's a link to my garage with some details about the rig.  http://www.classiczcars.com/garage/vehicle/1858-lexus-lx470/

I will also take some photos of the solution when I get the car mounted.

Mike

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The Lexus should tow it but I'd make sure not to go too heavy on the hitch. I clip the front straps into the holes in the Z's front crossmember and use straps that pass through the rear wheels. Both sets are crossed in an X pattern like in your pic. I put the car in gear and pull the hand brake on tight before strapping it down. Instead of parking on a hill you can just crank up the front of the trailer to change the angle. My race car has maybe 3-4" of clearance at most and I've never scraped in the ramp/bed transition. But I often have the air dam scrape on the ramps. I doubt if a Z at stock height would rub. Don't drive too fast. I think the speed limit is 55 or 65 in CA when pulling a trailer.

Chuck

 

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The one I got was grey like Mr Arnett's and the tie down hooks were at the rear, beside the brake lights.  I used regular cheapo ratchet straps and looped the ends around the axle and connected the hook to the strap, as I tightened them it pulled that tighter.  To be honest the front tire harnesses and ratchets will hold the car fine by themselves.  The rear ones just kept the rear of my car from bouncing while in transit, FYI, no need in anything fancy.  I didn't even cross mine, just straight back. 

straps.png

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7 minutes ago, cbuczesk said:

 I put the car in gear and pull the hand brake on tight before strapping it down. 

 

I wondered about that Chuck and decided to tighten all my straps down then put the car in gear and the E-brake on.  My thinking was the straps would have a constant pull on my tranny and E-brake.  To each his own. :)

Oh yeah!  Don't forget to let the driver's side fender down on the trailer before you pull onto it.  You'll be climbing out the hatch if you forget.

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If the car has alloy wheels, axle straps can be run thru the spokes and hooked to ratchet straps.  I suggest a "X" pattern on the ratchet straps to eliminate side-to-side movement.  I strongly recommend leaving the car in neutral during towing.  Any forward/back rocking can damage the driveline - I've heard of snapped crankshafts.  Handbrake on is a good idea.

For a 250 mile trip, pull the car full forward and use the supplied front wheel straps.  Yeah, you'll likely be over the Lexus recommended tongue weight as I was but it should not be a problem for a short trip.  Cross-country - different story.

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6 hours ago, cbuczesk said:

want the Z a little forward on most open trailers

Just recently helped a neighbor load his daughters suv on a dual axle trailer and was told to center the vehicle on the trailer axles. He said it was "safer" this way. Interesting. Made it to the shop with no issues but then again it was a short trip. So forget what I said in post 6, feel stupid now.

 

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I have used a U-Haul trailer to haul 240Zs several times across NC.  The trailers are great. Put the Z on nose first (I usually have to use a come along for parts cars).  Once on, use the provided straps for the front tires.  Then, make sure you have a good set of heavy duty straps, not the cheap 4 pack from Harbor Freight!  Make sure to use the straps in a way that the car does not roll backward...or forward.  Cinch the car down and them drive for a mile.  Stop and retighten.  Then, every time you stop make sure the straps are tight.

861086_10152091103971762_3049671512803898596_o.jpg

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20160814_091906.jpg.bf23dace6dfbdbf9d081 When I bought my z we took it about 60 miles like the picture, but heard that it puts a lot of wear on the transmission.? Not very sure, it was a while ago. Bdcause of that, after the first 60 miles we turned the car around and backed it on the trailer. We just locked the steering wheel then put some tow straps around the steering wheel to make sure it was secure. It comfortably went about 250 miles at 70mph sitting like that. I apologize for not having a picture, I am trying to hunt one down.

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15 hours ago, rcb280z said:

Just recently helped a neighbor load his daughters suv on a dual axle trailer and was told to center the vehicle on the trailer axles. He said it was "safer" this way. Interesting. Made it to the shop with no issues but then again it was a short trip. So forget what I said in post 6, feel stupid now.

 

Don't feel too bad.  With the U-Haul trailer I used the car had to be pulled all the way forward with the front tires up against the front lip of the trailer.  The front tires roll over the strap then you pull the strap up and over the tires, ratcheting them down.  Really no other way, the straps and ratchets are not movable plus you have to have some tongue weight.

Like Loudoun's picture above.

trailer.png

 

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Go to your nearest tire shop make sure your tires on the tow vehicle are set to max or close to it. Don't try those coin operated compressors or you will be spending at least $5 and take forever to air up your tires.

If your receiver hitch is straight then you should be good. If it has an angle to it then make sure the ball will be at the highest point. 

I helped Lonetree steve pick up a 240 earlier this year in Cheyenne, we came up from denver. He had a suburban and low tire pressure. The hitch was mounted low and barely cleared some of the roads. That was a long night just to get it loaded with a couple of flat tires. Used a come along and also had to raise the front of the trailer to get the 240 to clear the back end of the trailer. That due to the flat tire on the 240.

I picked up a 620 pu, that was in grand junction. It towed fine, ran into a little snow on a couple of the mountain passes.

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Well I have her loaded up and ready to go. I purchased a few things during my visit to u-haul. I picked up a set of differential straps, which I used for the rear cross bracing. I also noticed my existing hitch ball was a bit low so I purchased a new ball and flipped the tongue over to give it a bit more lift. Other than that it all looks pretty good. Check out some pics I took this morning. On the road now and typing this from my rig while I fill up with super unleaded. ;)

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Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

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