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Matthew Abate

1973 Rebuild

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Pretty sure you'd have to have one custom-made.  The nut is specially designed by Tokico to fit the top of the strut/shock and the top of the Datsun tube.  Basically, three separate parts have to fit together.

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Got a lot going on, which I will post up when I finish, but in the mean time I have a question. I almost started a thread for this but I melt like I should ask here first.

 

I am planning to spay ceramic sound deadener, heat shield, and undercoat on the car. My question is where would you guys put these?

 

The painter suggested:

• heat shield just on the firewall and over the forward part of the transmission hump, inside the cabin

• Sound deadener inside the doors, on the floor inside the whole cabin, and inside the roof

• And undercoat under the entire car stopping where the transmission jump bends and you can see it from the engine bay, as well as inside the wheel wells and the inside of the front fenders.

 

I am not super knowledgeable on these three things and totally willing to entertain suggestions on changing this. Please hit me with what you think is optimal.

 

Remember this is a resto-mod, so I am going for function driving form, not historical accuracy.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I shot lizard skin heat shield on the inside of the roof skin and pretty much all of the floor area and fire wall. Then I shot sound deadener over all that and the inside of the doors, quarters and spare tire well. I shot under-coater over the entire bottom side of the car up to the entrance to the tunnel, where I switched to the engine bay paint. I also shot under coater on the inside of the fenders and all the wheel wells got it when I did the under side of the car. All of he under coater was shot over epoxy primer. You can probably tell how I did my build thread.

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It’s been a while since I posted progress, so I thought I would throw some photos up:

 

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Note the helicoil that came out with this bolt:

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Time-sert installation:

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Finishing:

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New bearing cups in:

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Body status:

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Carbs back from Z Therapy:

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Hoping to have the rotors and hubs on the struts by the end of the weekend. The weather has been hot and humid so I’m not certain the paint will be cured on my dust shields by then, though.

 

After that is scrounging up the hardware that holds the suspension on the car, getting some cheep tires on the old mags, and getting the suspension out to the painter after the undercoat is on.

 

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Running a custom harness is not bad, when I got my car the front engine harness was snipped, I wanted to use the OEM under dash connectors so i sourced a harness that was repairable.

All you really need is a voltmeter, new wiring in various lengths, crimp / pin removal tools, connectors ( www.vintageconnections.com has very nice stuff) you will also need a wiring diagram that you can trace out for the car, which should be easy to get your hands on.

I lay mine out on the floor and just trace the lines I want out, I also took the liberty to modify the harness to have alternator upgrades/voltmeter/emergency switch bypass all inside the loom. 260zs truely are the bastard children.

After the modifications were done I placed it back into the car, and tested it out, worked with no issues. It takes time however, I have time, but no money ... also learned the electrical system inside and out so that was cool.

Edited by heyitsrama

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Got the hubs and rotors together...

IMG_9649.thumb.JPG.7c55661d15743d0195132c323cc1ebba.JPG

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... but...

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... notice anything?

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The hub bolts are protruding. They will hit the wheel if I leave them like that and prevent a solid mating surface between the hub and wheel.

This could mean one of, or a combination of, three things: the new bolts are longer than the OEM bolts, the new lock washers are thinner than the OEM lock washers, or the new rotors are thinner at the mounting point than the OEM rotors.

I’m going to pull a bolt and double check the length as soon as I have time, but I suspect that it’s the rotor. They have a recess where the bolt hole is and I think it’s too deep.

If the new bolts and washers are the same measurements as the OEM bolts I’ll have two options: grind the bolts shorter or find thicker lock washers.

 

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Those look like the same rotors I just installed. I am fairly confidant these are the original bolts and washers that I replated. They are slightly recessed when torqued. I had to go double check after you posted this

20180815_210048[1].jpg

 

 

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Be careful with those newly coated wheel flanges.  The coating can get squishy and compress, allowing the lug nuts to loosen.  There are stories.  Mating surfaces are best metal to metal.

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Those look like the same rotors I just installed. I am fairly confidant these are the original bolts and washers that I replated. They are slightly recessed when torqued. I had to go double check after you posted this

 

What did you torque yours to? I couldn’t find the torque spec in the FSM so I went with what is in the Chilton, which is 43-54 pounds. I’m thinking that might be part of it.

 

As soon as I can I’ll pull a bolt and check the measurements to verify that.

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2 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

 

What did you torque yours to? I couldn’t find the torque spec in the FSM so I went with what is in the Chilton, which is 43-54 pounds. I’m thinking that might be part of it.

 

As soon as I can I’ll pull a bolt and check the measurements to verify that.

I used the value out of Haynes. It was somewhere in that range, about 40 pounds. I don't think that is the problem. I think your bolts are 5mm too long

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I used the value out of Haynes. It was somewhere in that range, about 40 pounds. I don't think that is the problem. I think your bolts are 5mm too long

 

Yep.

IMG_9660.thumb.JPG.795f0accaaa86d73cb4f1ff4e359b397.JPG

 

Z Car Depot said they get these from Nissan, so they are looking into it to see if they can figure out something better.

Note that the thread count is fine and it is the unthreaded shank that is way to long by at least 1.5 millimeters.

 

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1 hour ago, Matthew Abate said:

 

Yep.

IMG_9660.thumb.JPG.795f0accaaa86d73cb4f1ff4e359b397.JPG

 

Z Car Depot said they get these from Nissan, so they are looking into it to see if they can figure out something better.

Note that the thread count is fine and it is the unthreaded shank that is way to long by at least 1.5 millimeters.

 

And the OEM bolt head is thicker. Would be interesting to mic from the bottom of the bolt head to the end of the threads on each one for reference

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I just got off the phone with them. They had only checked them on 260/280Zs so that’s part of the problem.

 

My options are find some OEM ones (just emailed Jim), find thicker lock washers, or grind these down.

 

I don’t like the grinding option because I would be reducing the thread contact area from the intended design.

 

 

For reference:

Bolt = 40209-22000 (NLA) m10x1.25, 27mm long, 10mm grip length

Lock washer = 08915-14010 m10x3mm thick

 

 

 

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The problem with grinding them down to me, would be, you remove all the zinc from the end of the bolt and they're going to rust badly there so close to the ground and potential water. I am not sure grinding them would affect clamping forces at all, but I am also not an ME...

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I'd be more concerned about the shank bottoming out.  Easy to check though.  A flat washer under the lock washer might solve both problems.  With a dab of thread locker to be sure.  Would make it look like the original as far as the functional bits.

image.png

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Yeah, that’s a problem too. I’ve read and been told not to use a regular washer with a split lock washer, so I’m trying to source some more correct bolts or a m10 split lock washer that is at least 4mm thick. Tall order.

 

These might work: http://www.dli-teknik.se/index.php?section=products&subsection=7&cat=83&s1cat=578&s2cat=1056&showprod=10154&lang=en

 

I called ARP and they said these were probably custom manufactured by them for this distributor. Looking into the details.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

 

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2 minutes ago, Matthew Abate said:

Yeah, that’s a problem too. I’ve read and been told not to use a regular washer with a split lock washer, so I’m trying to source some more correct bolts or a m10 split lock washer that is at least 4mm thick. Tall order.

Thread locker.  You could leave out the split lock washer entirely.

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I am looking at getting some custom wheels made and was looking at 15x6.5 in the front and 15x8.5 in the back.

Does anyone have any experience with that width in the back?

Are 15” wheels hard to get good tires for?

Is that too narrow in the front?

 

I’ve read a bunch of threads on these issues on this forum as well as others and there’s too much noise to draw a consensus. Hayashi Racing told me to get 15x7.5 with +6 offset all the way around. I think 16” wheels look wrong, but I also want to be able to get tires.

Also, I have the eibach springs and Tokico Illuminas to take into account.

 

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If I remember correctly, it was my understanding that the Z doesn't benefit from an out of square tire setup. Maybe some of the track or autoX guys can chime in. Also if you run the same size front and rear you can rotate them and the full mileage warranty will apply

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