Given the limited description, I'd say everything is just fine. Timing chains are supposed to run tight and 8" of leverage on the crank nut isn't much leverage to turn it over. Especially a new engine.

Thanks Mark!  I've been looking over some pictures and noticed the timing chain plunger is completely compressed except for the rubber washer between the plunger and it's housing so that makes me feel a lot better.  The guides had the adjustable holes and I did use the closet holes to the chain so that is another factor in the tightness.  Plus no grooves are worn in yet so...

Just a worrying kind of guy, damn it! 

You are fighting the valve springs and a fresh motor, so maybe you are just over thinking things. It is a little unnerving when you worried whether it's valves clashing or just that tight. 

Motor looks great!  What piston rings did you go with?

9 hours ago, S30Driver said:

Motor looks great!  What piston rings did you go with?

I let the machinists get them for me and ended up with Hastings chrome faced rings. He says it's the same as Nissan used to begin with. The 2.4 rings are few and far between, I learned on my searches. DJ Warner used Hasting cast iron on his and they worked good for him. I would've been happy with those but I decided to let my guy make the decision. Installed them with WD-40, per his instructions. Fingers crossed!

I need some ideas please!

I started fitting the header and rear slinger on and realized I do not have enough threads for my crimp nut to work.  Went to Nissan then Fastenal, no luck.  The guy at Fastenal suggested buying a M10-1.75 bolt that was long enough, hacksaw the head off and use it as a manifold stud.  He didn't have one in stock.    I'm using the M10 because that rear hole was wollard out and what I have is the longest Nissan has in that size, it's for their Titan 8 cylinder pickup.

Tomorrow I'm gonna hit the hardware stores and try and find one in stainless steel.  It needs to be about 2&1/2 inches long to bottom out in the head then attach the header and the engine slinger.

Do y'all think that's a good idea or should I find an alternative way of lifting the back end of the motor & transmission combo?

Thanks for any advice.  Here's what I have now;

 

If I had a nice-looking engine I'd only put the engine puller on when I was pulling an engine.  I don't even know why Nissan leaves those on unless it just makes factory assembly easier, they don't want to add a step, and they're inexpensive.  They're certainly not very attractive.  I'd install the engine then remove it and put it in a drawer.

If you are not going to retain the slinger after install, you could pull the stud & temporarily replace it with a bolt that is long enough to be secure.

When done, remove the bolt and re-install the stud.

Thanks guys, that makes perfect sense. That's why I didn't think about it, too simple! 

I have removed the front one from my 280 after installed.

Another panicked brain fart from a gassy guy!

Getting closer!  Baby steps.

Put a new oil pump on today and used my drill to prime the oil lines. Forgot to run it counter clockwise, no oil for a couple of minutes.  Scared me to death. 

Tomorrow I'll mate the transmission after installing all the clutch stuff.

I've decided to wait and install the header when the motor's in the bay.  I may be able to get the motor/tranny in by myself that way.  Also I'll be removing the front bumper, taking the front tires off and have a floor jack under the cross member to get the front as low as possible.  Maybe installing the transmission cross member mount beforehand too.  Put the rear tires on ramps positioned 90 degrees to the tires, pointing out instead of under the car.

Any other suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks for the advice @Jeff G 78 but I would rather do this by myself, people make me nervous. 

Thanks @rossiz for your advice as well.

Hey Cliff, you might want to dry fit the header first with the intake just to make sure you know that the thick washers seat right, the nuts can be started and that you know what tool works best at each location before you drop the engine in.  You don't want to fight the header and wind up with leaks.  

Good luck!  I have installed the whole shebang alone and it can be done, though in my race car, I'm not worried about a paint scuff here and there like I would be on a nice street Z.  It's really hard not to touch the hood latch and the top of the tunnel with the valve cover.  When I powder coat my valve cover, I will wait to install it until after the engine is in.  I have lots of old covers to use for installation.