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wheee!

1976 280Z Restoration Project

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Understood, however in this case the car is not running, merely turning over and backfiring a few times before dieing. I have seen the log files and can easily see the synch and home results with errors for the other tunes. The issue with the last "tune" was the meltdown instantly upon reboot of the ecu. The starter was not engaged and the car was not running.

I am running the Elite 750, but while i'm getting it tuned, It is the remorte tuner who sees the screen as I am over the engine holding the remote start button and feathering the throttle body....

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I might have said something unkind about Rotaries at one point. But I don’t see how that’s relevant....

  • Haha 1

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Here is a screen shot of the most recent data log. I feathered the throttle to keep it running a few seconds. Still misfiring and coughing but verrrrry close to a smooth run.

You can see the channel colour values on the left.

image.png

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Yeah, I don't see how the disparaging comments about rotaries would cause this much of an issue.

So I have no idea what I'm looking at with that graph. I mean, I can read the legend in the lower left, but I don't know what "normal" looks like. What's the horizontal time scale on that screen capture? It was running for minutes, seconds, a second?

What's Haltech's response to this whole thing?

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That's about a ten second clip. Andno, I don't claim to understand it much more than you.... Other than the lines should be more linear for an engine that is idling (mine wasn't).

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8 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

What are the anomalous regions at the beginning and end of the run? Cranking at the beginning and struggling to run at the end?

 

It would appear so. I am reading about filter settings to see if they can be set to allow more "noise" from the Home and Trigger signals to smooth out the engine.

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Sounds like it's running on 5 and the dead/bad cylinder has a stuck valve or something.  Or it's running on 5 and it's running lean, and the weak cylinder doesn't have enough to keep firing, just an occasional kickback.  What happens if you  increase injector open duration to make sure you have enough fuel?  These engines love their rich mixtures you know.

That video was about perfect.  It played, it was small (quick download) and it showed some stuff.

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Thanks Zed. I checked the injector harness with my brand new Noid light kit. They are all pulsing. I also checked the injectors previously. I am set up for 310cc volume on these too.
It sounds like 5 cylinders to me too.

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If you're running 310 cc injectors then the open time for idle is very short.  You might have a sticky injector or just be on the edge of control.  So, making it richer might get you to where 5 run rich and one runs right.  But it might show you something.

I said increase injector open time but on your settings it might be something else.  Whatever setting adds fuel.  You could even just increase fuel pressure as a test.

p.s. the popping might be from enough fuel getting sucked over to the dead cylinder to make it pop.  You might just have a dead injector.  The noid light shows that injector got current but not that it actually opened.  With 310 cc, open time is going to be a tiny faction of a second at idle.

The more I ponder, the more it seems like a stuck injector.  Just a view.

p.s. 2 - are you sure that fuel pressure is maintained after it starts?  It really should have kept running, on 5.

Edited by Zed Head

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Fuel rail pressure is right on the money. I tested the newly rebuilt injectors and they all pulse properly with 9v applied.

I have a new tune to load when I get back to the car. The tuner changed a few settings. TDC might have changed when I moved reluctor pickups in the CAS. My timing light still shows 10 degrees BTDC at the current setting though...

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Got so much done today!!
... cleaning that is. Half the shop done!
12c3841f46089d4c68c1bd9ab7d1ed10.jpg

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I have a new CAS from OneSix on its way. We are testing a theory that the one I have may be a dud.

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Ever hear the story about the guy that wired his injectors and COPs for Haltech in 1-5-3-6-2-4 firing order instead 1-2-3-4-5-6 cylinder order?
Yeah, that’s me... I’m the idiot...

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That is one of the issues... I have a few more tuning bugs and hopefully will have it running soon.

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10 hours ago, wheee! said:

Ever hear the story about the guy that wired his injectors and COPs for Haltech in 1-5-3-6-2-4 firing order instead 1-2-3-4-5-6 cylinder order?
Yeah, that’s me... I’m the idiot...

How did that affect running or not? My intuition would have suggested the same thing

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How did that affect running or not? My intuition would have suggested the same thing

Well, remember how it sounded like it was running in two cylinders? It was... 1 & 3... all the rest were out of order. Amazing it ran at all. But of course, my brain was thinking that was impossible as I had the correct firing order! Trying to outsmart a computer....

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