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280Z Full Restore in 5 months, hopefully.


CG240Z

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Update on the engine: Went through the FI manual and checked all my continuities and impedances, every thing checked out ok there. Brought the engine to TDC compression on #1 and found the distributor was a bit off. Dropped the oil pump and pulled the distributor. Moved it a couple teeth over and got that lined up. Also found I had my wires running to the distro cap one plug off, fixed that. Put everything back together and now it won't start! So it ran when the timing was off, but not that it's right it won't? I'm kind of clueless right now. I checked all my spark plugs and laid the plugs on top of the valve cover and watched them go through the firing order while the engine was turning over. Everything looks good. Still no fire. Engine needs spark, fuel, and air to run. I'm getting all these. Not sure what to do next.

Also, does anyone know where these two wires go? They are both blue, but have different connections on them, so I don't think they go together. I know they are hot when the cars on, accidentally grounded one and it sparked. It's in the wire harness next to the coil. Thanks guys.

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Pictures of the plugs laid on top.

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She's alive! Of course she needs some fine tuning, but she's idling and revving like a champ! Replaced the cap, coil, and rotor button. But the key was my timing was off, which I figured, but didn't know why. I swore up and down I was on TDC compression, I pulled the valve cover and watched and the cam, and saw both the valves not being engaged. Anyways, Dad told me to stick my finger over the hole and when it blows out air, it's compression, regardless of what the cam is doing. Long story short, I was 180 out. What a rookie move on my part! :stupid::stupid::stupid: But moving on! The cam sounds awesome and she's sounding great. Next up is getting the clutch working properly, then time for some open road!

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glad you got it sorted!

i had a similar problem on a '68 firebird w/ohc 6 - replaced the timing belt and had all the timing marks lined up, but no love and horrible backfires. turned out the original belt had stretched so much that the PO had moved the plug wires 1 spot off in order to get it "close" to timed - so when i put on a new belt it was way off. i went over it again and again and was SURE i had it right (i hadn't touched the distributor) and my very wise uncle took one listen and told me to move the plugs around the cap - bingo, perfect.

who knew...

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You might want to change to the high volume oil pump from the 280ZX turbo. Its a bolt-in upgrade and will help maintain pressure at idle.

I will keep that in mind. Here's a pic of my gauges at idle. I'm happy with this oil pressure at idle. How the pressure is when under load is unknown at this point, but I will keep a close eye on it. Alternator is charging the crap out of the battery, battery could be low from sitting and staying connected to the car.

<a href="http://s254.photobucket.com/user/taillonml/media/280z/CEC46F0C-0E1C-4CB7-A31A-FCEE61568F5E.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh101/taillonml/280z/CEC46F0C-0E1C-4CB7-A31A-FCEE61568F5E.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo CEC46F0C-0E1C-4CB7-A31A-FCEE61568F5E.jpg"/></a>

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You can use a similar gauge to the one in the fuel system to get an idea what the pressure really is. Or remove the sender and test it with a air and see if the gauge is moving accordingly.

The gauges in the dash are not all that accurate and the oil pressure indicates 0 to 90 and no makings between.

I agree with Blue, it seems high for idle.

Chas

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As far as I know it's the stock sensor. I'll take a closer look at it, I might have another oil pressure gauge laying around the garage that I can temporarily hook up to to get another read of the pressure.

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