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Would you run this?


Perfect240Z

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I've been cleaning this head for a week now. And after soaking it in hot simple green, and using stripping cleaner to remove what's left of the head gasket, is it now clean enough to run? Its smooth in all the dark spots, thid isnt super performance racing build. This is a get my car back on the road build :)post-23144-14150822399665_thumb.jpg

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Not trying to be a ****, but what do you think we can determine from this pic-really.

I can't even tell if the valves are still in there. Looks like you took them out.

Like said above, the mating surface doesn't look clean, it should be bare aluminum-that's it.

The stuff you can't see is what to worry about.

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Its a good head, bought it from a fellow member. Not like I don't have the money, but I don't want it shaved more since its already been done before. Don't know what else to clean it with then...I know using a razor blade can damage the aluminum, and I tried using a scotch bright pad and a plastic brush with simple green, acetone, and even paint stripper. Any other options on cleaning off more then?

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Looks marginal to me. Not trying to be mean, imply anything or the likes, but in general I see this a lot..... 'if you don't have the money to fix it right the first time, do you have the money to fix it again?'

Not like I don't have the money, I like to things at home as much as I can. Any other suggestions on stuff I can use?

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Not trying to be a ****, but what do you think we can determine from this pic-really.

I can't even tell if the valves are still in there. Looks like you took them out.

Like said above, the mating surface doesn't look clean, it should be bare aluminum-that's it.

The stuff you can't see is what to worry about.

Yes the valves are out, I had the whole head soaking in a big tub of Hot simple green for like 3 hours. Any other suggestion on what I can use to clean it off?

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Strictly by looks i WOULDN'T run that head-if i couldn't get the mating surface to look better than that. Have you checked it for flatness?

Why the reluctance to have it skimmed-looks like you have done the expensive part by taking it apart.

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Strictly by looks i WOULDN'T run that head-if i couldn't get the mating surface to look better than that. Have you checked it for flatness?

Why the reluctance to have it skimmed-looks like you have done the expensive part by taking it apart.

Its been shaved already and shims put in, I don't want to buy more shims which is why I don't know if I want to get it skimmed again, I may take it to the shop Ive been using to get it cleaned but that would be it if I took it there. They are always busy, prices are really good to pass up too.

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On my computer I have to click on that picture about three times in succession before it zooms in to full size filling the screen, I think it is because it is a thumbnail picture. I have never figured out how some post pictures and they are real big and easy to see but other pictures in posts seem small like thumbnails requiring further clicking (my posts always have small pictures requiring further clicks for some reason).

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Flat, straight and parallel is more important than clean. Along with the critical dimensions of valve seats, guides, etc. You're focusing on the wrong thing, if you plan to use the engine to make the car move.

Those should all be good. Valves were sealing before it was taken a part, seats were replaced with steal seats. I wasn't looking forward to heading back to the shop anytime soon because it did take almost 5 months to get my last head with the wrk done. I got what I asked but the timing wasn't my favorite. Can't beat the price though.

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I would try to get it cleaner than that. Paint remover then 2 inch wide paint scraper. You can do it withought gouging the metal.

LOL thats what I've been using, I even tried air craft stripper...had it sitting for about 10+min before trying to scrape off with a paint scraper

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If necessary I use 600/800 grit metal oxide wet sand paper, on a flat/straight sanding block about 6" long. I put the heads in the parts washer and flow cleaning solvent over them while working the sand paper. I've only had to do that a couple of times - normally just the cleaning solvent in the part washer and a gasket scraper do the job.

FWIW,

Carl B.

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I agree with carl's post #15 and john's above. Check if its straight and skim it just enough to clean up the surface. You say its shaved. Is it a P90 shaved 80 thou? Doesnt look like it, but im having trouble with the photo on the pad.

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I can understand the desire to DIY, but a complete head rebuild that re-uses the valves and valve seats is $300. The head is off and the valves out. Take it to a shop and have them do a rebuild. Hell, if you tell them that you'll reassemble, the price may be around $200.

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Well hello Bo-haven't seen you around these parts lately.

Like Bo said-and you said you weren't hurting for money. Find another shop that can get the basics done in a reasonable amount of time.

You do it right and that little l24 will reward you nicely!

This is what you want it to look like!!

Again I ask-stock valve sizing?

post-7622-14150822411934_thumb.jpg

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Well hello Bo-haven't seen you around these parts lately.

Like Bo said-and you said you weren't hurting for money. Find another shop that can get the basics done in a reasonable amount of time.

You do it right and that little l24 will reward you nicely!

This is what you want it to look like!!

Again I ask-stock valve sizing?

Umm I believe they are stock valve size, but the head already has steal valve seats. I can go and ask maybe this week at the shop if they can get it cleaned within the week.

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