Quick Revving L28

[John Coffey]

I conduct myself similar to any 51 year old racer. Cynicism is our middle name. Hopefully in about 10 years I can earn the title of Curmudgeon.

[sblake01]

Hey John, I'm 10 years older than you. A crumdugeon? They're really not bad people. I always loved author Jon Winokur's take on crumdugeons.

A curmudgeon's reputation for malevolence is undeserved. They're neither warped nor evil at heart. They don't hate mankind, just mankind's absurdities. They're just as sensitive and soft-hearted as the next guy, but they hide their vulnerability beneath a crust of misanthropy. They ease the pain by turning hurt into humor. . . . . . They attack maudlinism because it devalues genuine sentiment. . . . . . Nature, having failed to equip them with a servicable denial mechanism, has endowed them with astute perception and sly wit.

Curmudgeons are mockers and debunkers whose bitterness is a symptom rather than a disease. They can't compromise their standards and can't manage the suspension of disbelief necessary for feigned cheerfulness. Their awareness is a curse.

Perhaps curmudgeons have gotten a bad rap in the same way that the messenger is blamed for the message: They have the temerity to comment on the human condition without apology. They not only refuse to applaud mediocrity, they howl it down with morose glee. Their versions of the truth unsettle us, and we hold it against them, even though they soften it with humor.

Sorry to do that to your thread, Ted but once people began analizing each other rather than the L series engine, it was already off topic anyway. Edited December 10, 2011 by sblake01

[Oiluj]

If your primary concern is cost, then this thread is a complete waste of everyone's time. Power is made in these engines through the labor put into the build. Its not about the parts used, its all about the effort put into the build and labor is by far the most expensive part of any engine build no matter who does the work - even if you do it yourself. Again, how fast your junkyard build will rev has much, much more to do with the quality of the build and the quality of the tune then stroke, mass, or MOI. Orders of magnitude more.

Ted, FWIW, John knows his stuff and has been giving you good advice.

You might want to call one of the premier L-series engine builders, (Rebello, Sunbelt), and see what advice they give as well.

I for one, look forward to hearing ongoing updates on your build.

Edited December 11, 2011 by Oiluj

[Oiluj]

I conduct myself similar to any 51 year old racer. Cynicism is our middle name. Hopefully in about 10 years I can earn the title of Curmudgeon.

John, I turm 58 tomorrow. When it comes to technical design reviews, my co-workers have considered me a curmudgeon for several years...!

[sblake01]

I just noticed how badly I botched the word in that last post, twice:facepalm:. c-u-r-m-u-d-g-e-o-n :stupid:

[Ted.]

Ted, FWIW, John knows his stuff and has been giving you good advice.

You might want to call one of the premier L-series engine builders, (Rebello, Sunbelt), and see what advice they give as well.

I for one, look forward to hearing ongoing updates on your build.

Oh, I know that. I never once assumed he didn't have extensive knowledge on the L-series engines or engineering in general. Its kind of hard to run a reputable shop when you know jack-squat about the vehicles you specialize in. From what I can see on his shops website, they seem to know what they are doing, I just didn't clarify enough in my initial post for them to understand what I was proposing.

I haven't sent a message to Rebello yet about the engine. I have to check, but I'm pretty sure someone on here also mentioned using the P30 crank and E88 head instead, since I can probably locate it easier then an E31/E31. That might have been Al from datsunpartsllc or Rob from zcargarage in an email, though. Rob also suggested I talk to Dave at Rebello, so thats one thing I need to get on. I'll make sure to include my reasoning as far as price and part availability is concerned to avoid the same confusion that took place here.

[Oiluj]

I just noticed how badly I botched the word in that last post, twice:facepalm:. c-u-r-m-u-d-g-e-o-n :stupid:

Naw, you were just being lys-dexic...

[Zs-ondabrain]

OK, So back on subject...... As I, a simple guy with little knowledge of rebuilding a motor, Need some help and answers without getting too technicle on me........

I want to rebuild my worn out, numbers matching 2.4 liter block.

I want to do a 30 over bore, ZcarSource 30 over pistons,

fully ballanced crank, rods, Dampener and flywheel (lightened to 17 pounds) Through "Perpetual Ballance LLC" a local company

I have a rebuilt N42 head but want to port and polish it and do a Stage 2 cam (480/274)

6-into-1 ceramic coated header, 2.5" exhaust, turbo muffler

ZTherapy SU's on ported intakes. Electronic Ignition

The Flywheel is a 240mm 2+2 style that will be lightened to 17 pounds then ballanced.

So with this in mind. Should I buy Flat top or dished pistons?

What will my Compression Ratio be close to?

Do I need a special head gasket (thicker or stock?)

I've wanted to do this for a long time and this credit card is burning a hole in my pocket.

I was quoted $170 for the 30 over bore.

Under $50 for the flywheel to be resurfaced and lightened

Under $200 for the pistons, Rods, flywheel and crank to be ballance and matched to each other (rods and pistons)

Pistons are $192, Gasket kit is $80, Rod and main bearing kit is $90

ZTherapy SU's $630 plus a few other parts.

So I'm thinking a $2000 budget should cover everything. But I'm wondering what I'll get for that $2000?? Aprox HP, Compression ratio, torque? any clues or do I need more info?

Dave

[Diseazd]

Dave....I agree with Jon Mortenson.....I've got two Stage II builds and two Stage III builds. Go with the Stage III cam. You'll be happy you did......you can really feel the difference between the two. Guy

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Dave

I would budget in for new oil pump as well. I cannot possibly hurt. And it is a bit of extra safety for you.

The price for a bore seems a bit low, but I would check to see if they could clean the block in a bath and chase all the threads for you.

I have no idea at all what kind of power that will make...

[madkaw]

Sounds like my set-up Dave. I would also recommend going with the biggest cam you can go with running FLAT TOP pistons-maybe even bigger then stage 3, but check your clearance, you might need to clearance your pistons. Not sure what dished pistons you would put in there to match your head- unless you had some custom slugs to match the chambers of your n42. Where's the original e-88? Don't forget to notch your piston bores!!!!! and unshroud the heck out of your head.

I put my car on the dyno at Zcon and it was 155 HP and torque. Timing was conservative and the SUs were terribly out of balance and both rich and lean. It was 100 degrees outside. I'm thinking around 175 properly tuned- maybe better.

Edited December 21, 2011 by madkaw

[Zs-ondabrain]

This motor needs to be streetable. I love my stage 2 but if you think stage 3 will be ok for street and strip then that's what I'll do.

OK, so Flat tops, Notch the Piston Bores and unshroud the head.

The 8/70' 240Z, or at least mine, came with an E31 head. Which met it's maker a long time ago. The valves had all overseated and the head was trashed and unsalvagable. If you eyeballed the top of all the valves, it looked like a bad mountain scape. all the valves sat at different heights.

I'm still learning the terminologies so if you guys could explain "Notching" and "Custom Slugs" and "Unshrouding the head"???

I just need to know what to tell the machine shop when I go in, whithout looking like a total duffis.

Dave