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Rear Wheel Bearing Question


tlorber

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I'm taking my rear suspension apart to replace shocks and springs. The spindle pin removal was almost as much fun as everyone has described-(I've only done one side though).

Do most of you guys replace wheel bearings, or lube them at this time? I have not heard any bearing noise and would strongly prefer NOT to, but if it has to be done, I guess now would be the time.

Thanks for input.

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Now is the time, my brother :ermm:. It will not be as bad as the Spindle Pins. Don't go cheap on the parts you don't want to have to re-do this later. Pack em up with some premium high temp grease and have a cold beer. Expect the bearings to be kinda firm (by hand), that will not be a concern when the weight of the car is placed on them. Good Luck!

Edited by ZCurves
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Yeah, I was afraid you'd say that. So did you replace the bearings, or just repack them? Also, where did you get the replacement nuts, and are there any words of wisdom for removing them?

Thanks.

Not trying to hijack your thread.:D

I replaced the bearings both sides. Got those thru Napa. I got the the replacement nuts thru Nissan as well as new spindle nuts. The bearings were a real pain in the you know what. They were the original bearings and we took them to a shop and they pressed them off. Big press and they did not come off easy. As for the nuts, I Hope you have a 1/2 inch drive air impact wrench.:) They did not come off without a fight either. Two very good friends helped me and it was not only needed but much appreciated. All in all it was a pretty big job but once you get them tore apart and then put back together it really was not that bad. You will need the right tools though,including a large torque wrench

Edited by barth4567
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Yeah, I was afraid you'd say that. So did you replace the bearings, or just repack them? Also, where did you get the replacement nuts, and are there any words of wisdom for removing them?

Thanks.

I replaced the Inner and Outer bearings on both sides as well as the seals. I hand packed each of them with the high temp grease. You can get the bearings, seals and nuts anywhere, but I would check with MSA or BlackDragon (See attachment).

The nuts are the locking type where he lip is crushed onto the spindle after it has been torqued down. You have to bend the lip back out with a screw driver and use a big socket to remove the nut. Make sure to use a new nut and follow the torque specifications.

Black Dragon Bearings.pdf

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You can just check the bearing race and it should be shinny with no wear marks. If this is so you can just lube them. Personally I wouldn't because it is such a pain in the butt to go back later do it. I use grease for wheel bearings meant for disk brake applications. torque the stub axel nut to

200ft lbs, I just mount the hub on one of your wheels and have one person sit on the tire and the other work the torque wrench. Be sure to use a punch and stake the nut to the flat space on the stub Axel.

Gary

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That is an awesome writeup. And best of all (and this shows you what a lazy arse I am) this can be done without removing the spindle pins. It looks like it would not be all that difficult to do if the vehicle is on a hoist, which I will have access to in the future-see my power of rationalization kicking in-.

In fact, it looks like you can get better leverage for removing the nut and pulling the hub by leaving the strut housing on the car. Bottom line is, I think I'll put this off until the bearings begin to make noise, if they ever do.

Thanks again to all for the replies.

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I have read that page numerous times in preparation for my own eventual need for it.

I don't blame you for not wanting to touch the spindle pins. Just today I had to use the torch at my friend's shop and their press to get some pins out. Last Saturday was the day I sawzall'ed the control arms free. The pins were totally locked in. My buddy got lucky with his 72, they slid right out

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