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JimmyZ last won the day on November 13 2006

JimmyZ had the most liked content!

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About JimmyZ

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My Cars

  • About my Cars
    I've had my '71 240z since 1989. In 1990 I stripped the car and repainted. In 2002 this was done again but this time floor pan and frame rail replacement were required.

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  1. With the engine and tranny and front suspension out the car becomes VERY light. My car stayed straight and showed no signs of deformation. (diagonal measurements) Just be sure to support the front end evenly. Use weldable primer for your plug welds. Enjoy Jim
  2. I wonder how the factory applied the original stuff. It looks kind of lumpy to me much like a powder mixed with some sort of adhesive. I'd love to get my rear defrost back. Mine fizzled out 18 years ago.
  3. That's funny! Makes one wonder how many beers does it take to forget leaving something like that in the engine. Wonder how bad the guide got bent or if it snapped any mounting bolts. I've heard that the newer timing guides aren't as wide. My friend Norm mentioned that he had heard of trouble with new production guides. Maybe this is some example of a "genius" redneck enginneer creating a new anti chain flopping device.
  4. Here's a page I made about fixing a gas tank. http://warbuddies.homestead.com/gastank.html Some of the pictures at the bottom may be of help. You should be able to remove the filler neck and/or the sending unit and use a flashlight and mirror to sort it out. Try removing the filler plug and blow air through the tubes. You may be able to hear it coming from the end of the tube. Cheers Jim
  5. That's a VERY cool find! Wonder what persuaded them to do a Z theme?
  6. Here's a page I made for stuff like that.. Hope it helps. http://warbuddies.homestead.com/restohelp.html
  7. Mine was lime but I painted it red because the wife said she hated the color. I think lime is a PERFECT color for the car. It fits the era and look of the car very well. Next time I repaint it's going back to lime.
  8. Thank God only one person was hurt. That in itself is pretty amazing. Good to hear that your Z made it through. Natural disasters suck.
  9. What steps have you taken to isolate whether it's a fuel or ignition problem?
  10. I'm assuming you don't have welding equipment... You can aquire a used 110V MIG welder for a $100-150. Buy a 40cuft Argon/CO2 cylinder for a couple hundred with contents. (grab a spool of .023 wire too) It's easy to learn MIG. IMHO if you get a Z... especially one like that you'll need to do some welding. Perhaps you meant that you didnt want to do major structural repair. (frame rails etc) I was astonished to see a friends fathers five year old truck almost completely rusted away from northern driving. Poor guy had already replaced his brake lines and the his oil pan developed a rust hole!
  11. Beautiful Z! Awesome find! You really saved yourself some effort in finding such a complete and well tended car. Did anyone else mention checking the gas tank for rust or giant varnish deposits? No telling what's happened inside the tank.
  12. Do a search on this site. The gas tank issues have come up many times. Dropping the tank is easy. Putting it back in can be frustrating. The main hassle is getting the filler neck back on. Many posts on that too.
  13. I was around 8 when I saw my first Z and remember thinking "now there's a COOL car"! Saved up my pennies and when I was 19 bought the car I was destined for. It was such a hard road getting to the goal of owning a 240 I cried in sheer happiness driving it home. I think the guy that owned it cried a bit too... he just had to have a better race trailer though. The car has a oneness with the road and communicates so well in so many ways. I'm at a loss as to how anyone can drive it and not realize the Z experience is very special. Mine takes me to and from work 80 miles every day and I still cho
  14. Ditto what Arne said... Gotta have a flowmeter. You'll be surprised how fine an adjustment it takes to sync the carbs. (fractions of a turn) You can adjust mixture without synchronizing but it's not the proper thing to do. You'll have three cylinders using a different volume of air than the other three. Without the carbs sync'd the usual "raise a carb piston" while running method won't work well. I suppose in a pinch you could make a flowmeter with the proper tools. It's much cheaper to buy one. I have often thought how nice it would be if our Z's had vaccum nipples like motorcycles. Then sync
  15. I'll echo a lot of what Dave said and add a little. If it were me I'd do it in a certain order. As far as the throttle sticking the linkage has a few places it can stick. If you remove the linkage from the carbs do the throttle plates move freely? Isolate the linkage or the carbs as the culprit. Rule out the ignition completely before tinkering much with the carbs. Verify that the plugs are clean and the points are new and set to the right gap. Use a dwell meter as a final check of your points setting. A dwell check can also show how much slop there is in the distributor bushings. When checkin
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