spindle pin lock bolt question

[Dan S]

I know this a silly question but before I tackle the spindle pin I want to be sure I'm removing the lock bolt in the right direction.....being tappered does it remove from bottom up and out or top(threaded end) down bottom...

I know thes a rookie question but better save then sorry

any help would be great

Thanks

[webdawg1]

After you take the nut and washer off you should be able to use a small pin punch to get it out. You'll be driving it upwards from the bottom up. Would be a good idea to use some PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid wrench or your own personal favorite to spray it down a few times before you try to take it out. Enclosed picture should give you a pretty good idea what they look like after being installed for approx. 30+ years.....as compared to new.....

webdawg1

[Dan S]

awsome..thought that was the way to go...have been liquid wrenching it all day...my give it a try in the morning...thanx for the quick answer...you can always count of on that here

[Carl Beck]

Whoa...

I think webdawg1 stated that wrong.. based on how you ask the question.

As you can see from the pictures webdawg1 provided.... the lock pin is wider at the bottom - SO you drive the pin - top (threaded end) down..and out the bottom.

Leave the nut screwed even with the end of the threads to protect them.. smack swiftly with a brass hammer.. remove the nut... and use a brass drift to pound it the rest of the way out (if it doesn't fall out once it gets started)

FWIW,

Carl

[beandip]

Just one more thing to remember . The only function of this pin , is to keep the spindle pin from turning while it is tightened. So don't tighten it down like it is holding the suspension together when you are replacing the pin. Check the torque specs. By the way I have a spindle pin puller for loan if you need it. Makes this a easy job. Gary

[Carl Beck]

........ By the way I have a spindle pin puller for loan if you need it. Makes this a easy job. Gary

Most of the time....

Hi Gary:

I had tightened the large nut on the spindle pin puller down... pretty tight.. and the pin didn't move.

A friend with more arm power than me... cranked the nut down on the spindle pin puller - until the nut stripped!!.. Spindle pin didn't move...

Took the assembly (strut still connected to the lower transverse link)... to the shop and subjected it to 25 Ton's of pressing force... Spindle pin didn't move....

Applied HEAT... to the entire length of the spindle pin... LOTS OF HEAT... put it back in the Press.. and it finally pressed out...

Lesson Learned... if the spindle pin puller won't pull it out with "reasonable force" applied to the nut... stop.. apply LOTS OF HEAT...

Others that I have done, simply pulled out with no problems...

FWIW,

Carl B.

[Dan S]

Great...thanks guys...good to know that others are willing to put their thoughts down too...so, now to hope it doesn't give me grief getting it out,if so I'll take it to get it pressed out...

the issue is , the gut I bought the car from claimed he replaced all bushings etc. in the rear but I have my doubts on that cause the spindle pin and lock bolt do not look like they have been removed and if he had they should disassemble easy....not the case...so while the car is completely apart I might as well be sure

thanks for the input and be sure I'll bve back with more question in the future

and I just might take up the offer on the pin remover...if your willing to send it to the great white north...

Dan

[webdawg1]

Carl,

You sure you want to stand by that statement about the spindle pin lock bolt? If you drive it "Down" that just wedges it tighter against the spindle pin.....

webdawg1

[a7dz]

Carl,

You sure you want to stand by that statement about the spindle pin lock bolt? If you drive it "Down" that just wedges it tighter against the spindle pin.....

webdawg1

I would take that bet. As right now one of the pins is facing up and one down On my 240. Depends on who put the pins back in. Standard practices say that you would put the Keepers in from the top and the nuts on the bottom. So, if the nut failed and came off the pins would not fall out. Either way Carls statement is better as he has you drive them out from the threaded side. You are giving info that is not always correct. My case as an example.

FWIW

[webdawg1]

One facing "Up" & one facing "Down"....Now that is interesting....I'd like to see that....I'd say that on 99.9999% of all the Z cars out there that they all "Should" be facing thread down. I'm basing what I say on the way the spindle pin & spindle pin lock bolt is made. The more you tighten it down the more it tightens up against the spindle pin. Picture(s) enclosed....Carl was saying hit it from the end that does not have threads after taking the nut and washer off (Which would make it much harder to get out because it would be jamming it into the hole that much harder) If anything, I was trying to make sure (Correct) information was being put out....

webdawg1

Spindle Bolt Lock Pin.bmp

[a7dz]

I'm basing what I say on the way the spindle pin & spindle pin lock bolt is made. The more you tighten it down the more it tightens up against the spindle pin. Carl was saying hit it from the end that does not have threads after taking the nut and washer off (Which would make it much harder to get out because it would be jamming it into the hole that much harder) If anything, I was trying to make sure (Correct) information was being put out....

You need to reread post number 4. Carl states to leave the nut on the threads and hit the nut with a brass hammer pretty clear to me.

[webdawg1]

This is was I was making reference to:

Quote from Carl Becks response: As you can see from the pictures webdawg1 provided.... the lock pin is wider at the bottom - SO you drive the pin - top (threaded end) down..and out the bottom.

Whatever........pound away with that BFH and wonder why it won't come out.....

Later......................

webdawg1