help with struts

[zguitar71]

A set of new Illumina's (front and rear) on ebay goes for around $360. If you are just street driving your car then a set of Tokico HP's is just fine too. I do not know why your mechanic does not like Tokico struts but many very knowledgeable people on this and other Z sites think they are very good struts. If you are running spring rates over 250 in. lbs then you would need to go to a stiffer shock like the koni, but that does not mean the Tokico is a bad strut it is just not designed for higher spring rates.

[ZIII]

A set of new Illumina's (front and rear) on ebay goes for around $360.

Christopher,

The best price for Illumina's that I found on Ebay recently was $395 just for the shocks. My surprise was that Yoogener got the struts and coil-overs for $400.

[John Coffey]

One of the biggest causes of confusion regarding shocks, springs, anti-roll bars, wheels, tires, and pretty much anything else for a 240Z is when a person with a street 240Z calls or stops by a race shop and asks what parts he needs for his street car. For most 240Z racers the Tokico Illuminas are a bottom of the line, cheap shock and its what you run until you can afford something better. So, the comment above from the race shop is correct, in the context of road racing.

Unfortunately, people who have street 240Zs think they need the race stuff to make a good handling street car. In reality, race parts on a street 240Z generally make the car handle poorly for the 99.9999% of the time on the street where the car is being driven at 6/10ths or less of its capability.

For a street 240Z the Illuminas are top of the line.

[Arne]

do you guys know if 280ZX is the same as 280Z?

Definitely not.

I have owned, sold and serviced most of the brands listed here. And I pretty much agree with the other comments in this thread. I don't think I saw anyone rate the Monroes, they might be good for street use if plain stock is what you are after, no good at all for track.

Like Gary, I have a set of the Euro Stage I springs for my 240Z, and I will use either GR2 or Tokico HP, not sure which yet. Probably the GR2, since I don't see any track time in the car's future.

[Nigel1943]

Here in the UK, we have the same problem locating good shocks.

I'm building a rally car and will probably be using Bilstein inserts which are readily available for the UK Grp4 Ford Escort rally car. They can be bought in either short or long versions but are probably too "hard" for street use although ideal for the track. Bilstein are regarded over here as the best durable shock you can buy off the shelf.

[CRrider1988]

thanks guys, i ordered tokico illuminas with their springs for 579 and i also got new stainless breaklines.

[CRrider1988]

my struts came in now i need help putting them in. anyone up to it? i live in portland and ill pay a little. i would like to do it sat. if i can. email me or IM me and ill give you my number.

[beandip]

I sent you a PM about Sat. Gary

[jmortensen]

It's pretty easy if you do it right. Pull the nuts in the center of the strut. Then jack the car up as high as you can. Jack stands next. Then disconnect the brake lines and the halfshafts and the sway bar(s). Now pull down on the strut assemblies. They'll fold under the car, and next take the 3 nuts off that hold the struts in the strut tower. Now you can pull the springs off. Put the top hats back on the struts. Then you lift the control arms back up and put one nut on. Now you have the strut and control arm conveniently held in place with no spring on, and you can use a big pair of channel locks to break the gland nuts loose. Once they're loose, then you can take the nut back off the top and lower the control arms down again, and this time pull the struts out. Next you put your new struts in, pour a little oil down the tubes, and put the gland nuts on. To tighten the gland nuts, put the strut top back on and stick it back in the strut tower and hold with the one nut again. Then pull it back down, take the strut top off again and put the spring on. Put the strut top on again, this time for good, and put the strut back up inside the strut tower and put all 3 nuts on. Reconnect brake lines and sway bars and halfshafts. Bleed brakes. You're done. Not pulling the struts off the car really saves a bunch of time. You won't need a spring compressor doing it this way either, since your Tokicos should be short enough so that they don't need to be compressed.

Good luck.

[BronctailZ]

Hey, Do You Know If The Above Directions Apply To A 82 280zx As Well? I've Changed Struts On A Few Other Cars Before Where The Spring/strut Came Out All In One Piece And Then Used The Spring Compressor To Change. This Sounds A Little More Involved To Me But I Guess I'll Do What It Takes. By The Way Those Directions Were For The Rear Because You Mentioned Half Shalfs Correct? Are The Fronts Harder/easier. I'm Planning On Using Gr-2's Up Front And Gas-a-justs Forthe Rear(kyb) Stictly Pleasure Driving. Just Picked It Up With 51 K Origianl Miles. I Don't See Many 280zx Talk Here So I Don't Know If I'm In The Right Place But I Am Learning A Lot Reading Your Forums. Will Post Pics Soon Rich

[Zedrally]

snip

I Don't See Many 280zx Talk Here So I Don't Know If I'm In The Right Place But I Am Learning A Lot Reading Your Forums. Will Post Pics Soon Rich

You don't see much talk as it is not a zx forum.

Having said that, there are some similarities, however as most if not all members on this board have a Z, not a ZX you may not find the answers you seek, or they may not be reliable, due to those differences.

Keep reading up on you problem and cross reference using FSM if in doubt.

Good luck...

[Arne]

ZX rears are different - they are not really struts, but are spring-seat shocks. They can be done much the same as a front strut.