Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
Subforums
-
- 848
- posts
-
- 1.5k
- posts
1,450 topics in this forum
-
- 1 reply
- 1.3k views
Just wondering do most of you run return spill lines off your su carbs? I have no return on my su carbs on my land rover - thats how i bought it. Had some trouble with vapour lock but new insulated fuel lines and stopped that. Looking at running a return line - do i need to or not? Do i have to have one or do the floats act as regulators and therefore do away with a spill line. If i do run one does the bore need to be less than that of the fuel line itself. running 8mm fuel line so does that mean i'd have to run a 6mm spill? The set up is twin tanks to a fuel switch then to a low pressure electric fuel pump up to carb 1 then onto carb 2. Advice would be great. thanks
Last reply by tlorber, -
-
- 3 replies
- 1.4k views
Hi All, I have done some searches but i need info asap, my fuel pump is going out and i need a replacement for a triple carbed l28. I mainly need to know what is the recommended psi and GPH that i need to run effectively without regulator. With that said would a pump that puts out 4-6 psi at 32 GPH be too much for the carbs without regulator? Thanks in advance
Last reply by mlc240z, -
- 5 replies
- 1.5k views
Hi everyone. i just recieved my unisyn and have started tuning my engine in preperation for appraisal, insurance and hopefully driving next week. 280 short block E31 head ported with large valves, mild cam. header and SU's. I put kits in the carbs, have set the float level with clear tubing. That alone made a huge difference. I can reach in thru the window and the car starts right up and idles at 800 rpm. The throttle response seem crisp and instant. The problem is when I set the unisny on the rear carb and adjust it so the ball is in the middle then I put it on the front carb it does not move unless I turn in the front idle speed screw and the rpm goes up to 2000. I have…
Last reply by racer88, -
- 0 replies
- 1k views
I recently cracked the breather outlet on the driver side. It was a result of storing too much in the spare tire well (too much weight, thin steel flexing from hitting a bump, hitting the outlet) So my 2 remedy suggestions (aisde from not storing anything in the well ever again) eliminating this outlet Is it possbile to completely remove this vent outlet and seal the hole off leaving only the 2 vent outlets on the top most portion of the tank? spacing the fuel tank I was thinking of using ".250 harder durometer rubber and placing that between the top of the tank and the spare tire well to create more clearance if i choose to leave the outlet. (hopefully this would be t…
Last reply by Troutman, -
- 5 replies
- 2.2k views
So, I just ordered a P4070 Carter electric fuel pump, a regulator, and a fuel pressure gauge. I was wondering if, since my regulator has two outlets, I can get rid of some of the plumbing associated with the stock setup. I'm planning to replace the mechanical fuel pump and build my own block-off plate and gasket for the hole out of aluminum and was hoping I could get rid of the stock fuel rail and other stuff. Anyone have an opinion on this? Any pictures? It's purely aesthetic reasons for doing this, so anything I can do to simplify the engine compartment would be a plus. I'm using the following webpage as a reference: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/index.htm
Last reply by timhypo, -
- 0 replies
- 2.1k views
So I ordered the SM needles to put in my SU's thinking I had the stock needles from the previous owner. When I removed the old needle, I noticed they had a KD stamped on them. Come to find out, the KD's are very similar to the SM's only a little richer at the top end. Did a quick test drive and really could not tell a big difference. I guess that makes sense. So, I am running the SM's. Will monitor and see how the mileage goes since this is my daily driver. Just thought I'd share the info as I had not heard of the KD's before.
Last reply by motorman7, -
- 15 replies
- 3.8k views
Hi -- I'm new to the forums. I just got a 1972 240z, and have to entirely replace the carburetors. The closest mechanic to me who knows Zs quoted me around $900 for "better than new" custom rebuilt carbs. Is that too much? -- Thanks.
Last reply by DaveBonds, -
- 7 replies
- 2k views
I've been stalling. I made a post about the parts in the service kit before but the answers were iffy. One problem is the nomenclature or terminology. Parts go by different names with people and even vary from parts list to repair manual. The spring: it's the internal throttle return spring? And two small metal washers...I think they are part# 49 in the diagram but called (pump jet) gaskets instead of o-rings? And finally...there are 7 small o-rings and 2 larger ones. I know there is one for each idle mixture screw and one for each pump jet and two for the throttle spindle. I won't be using those if I have to disassemble the throttle to replace them. I can't find …
Last reply by Mikez73, -
- 5 replies
- 2.2k views
First off,Thanks for all your help guys.With some coaching from Steve from ZT.I got it right.She runs as smooth as silk.I had the choke cable set to high.that was causing a mis-adjustment in my carbs.Then I had my collector pipe, were it connectes to the exhaust pipe welded...no more popping!!!yahoo..So to every one that put in 2 cents worth..Thank ya,Thank ya,Thank ya..Now how about this one?I have a fuel smell in side the car.I see no leaks.That I can see.So fire away with your opinions.....oh ya, I see alot of different settings for spark plugs NGK,s that is.Im going with BPR6ES.Set at .40 ???????
Last reply by 240znz, -
- 0 replies
- 1.2k views
Fellas, Installing a Holley Red in the near future and before I order the wrong size fittings I was wondering what size fuel lines exit the fuel tank? Also, I'm thinking about 2 90* fittings for the input and output sides just from other pics I've seen of similar installs...any other suggestions? R/ Dustin
Last reply by konish, -
- 14 replies
- 4.1k views
I'm thinking about replacing my carbs. I removed the original flat tops and de-smogged when I tore the car down. I was planning to use the set of round tops that I bought on eBay and rebuilt. I took them apart completely, rebuilt both and cleaned everything very well. The piston and needle assemblies move freely, and drop with a nice thud. I have the car back together (figured out my electrical problem - bad male terminal at the resistor), and close to running, but I think the carbs are a problem. The car runs (barely) very lean, then I adjust the float bowl or mixture screw, and its blowing gas back out of the carb. I don't like the way they're working, and I'm t…
Last reply by conedodger, -
Carb Vacuum
by olzed- 2 replies
- 1.4k views
Hi .1972 240z. Standard SU type carbs. I noticed I can turn the mixture right in on the front carb and it starts to faulter. I do the same on the rear carb and very little change. Took the air cleaner off and placed my hand over the front carb inlet and heaps of suction. On the rear carb very little suction. Placed a vacuum tester, or balancer at each carb throat and the rear carb is very low on vacuum even at a very fast idle. The engine runs well and pulls well. Any ideas.:stupid:
Last reply by olzed,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
hiyabrad
