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doodles526

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About doodles526

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  1. I primarily notice it when I turn it off. However, It's pretty much whenever the car isn't in motion. So maybe just moving helps circulate the air so it isn't as noticeable. And yes, it's quite noticeable after the car has sat in the sun. So from those vapor lines seem like a good place to look. Thanks! I'll get back tomorrow to see if I find something back there
  2. Hey all, So recently my '74 260z started to smell strongly of gas inside the people compartment whenever I turn off the engine. I don't see any fuel dripping under the car, and I haven't noticed any performance issues or change in engine/exhaust sound to indicate either a loss in fuel pressure or an exhaust leak. Anyone had experience with something like this or have suggestions of where to investigate? Thanks!
  3. So, Summer finally came to us in Oregon and I tuned up the carbs, adjusted ignition advance, getting the car ready for the warm weather... Once I got the car on the road she ran beautifully, quick off the line and decent power all the way through the rev-range. I arrived at my favorite twisty road and decided to have a little fun around the corners, keeping rpm's high and in the power band. But after about three miles of decently hard driving I went to the gas out of a corner and right when the car normally seems to get its most power there suddenly is none. It almost feels like it redlines at a much lower rpm now, the engine noise also changes to be harsher at that rpm. I was able to drive the car home no problems, and it drives fine until you hit that point. I'm not sure on the exact rpm's that it hits when it happens as my tach is broken, but it's around 4600-5000. I thought it might be the timing chain, but as I'm researching that it seems that just wears over time and it wouldn't have been instant as in my case. I haven't messed with it or driven too much in case I just mess it up more, so I wanted to see if you guys have any suggestions of what to look for? Could it be as simple as the carbs just went out of tune again or the dizzy rotated a little on its own? Basically I just want to make sure it isn't something obvious that I'm missing that will seriously compromise other engine components before I start experimenting with the simple stuff like tuning. BTW 260z w/ l28 and dizzy from a 280zx, l26 intake, with 4 screw SU carbs
  4. ya... I got White plugs. So still tellin me it's lean
  5. So I've had my 260 for a while now, and when I tuned the carbs in the past I've used a unisyn to balance and done the rest by ear. But this week I looked up more advanced ways of tuning like using a vacuum guage and using the tabs on the bottom of the carb to lift the piston.(I also tried using a colorTune but it turned out to be the most worthless thing I have ever bought, my engine was almost stalling on the road when it told me I was in the "bunson blue perfection zone") After using all these tests(besides the ridiculous colorTune) they all imply that I am too lean no matter what I do. Float bowls as rich as they will go and mixture knobs all the down. The car runs fine as just a cruiser, but step on it and it sounds like a dying moose. Beautiful idle and throttle response without load though I don't know if this would make a difference with tuning, but when I bought the 260 it came with a 280zx L28 with an earlier intake(I think from a 240) and 4 screw SU's. Any ideas? And sorry, I didn't realize there was a dedicated SU section here so I already posted this on the Engine section of the site, so here it is in the right spot
  6. Oh ya. And I forgot to mention that even though it says I'm lean the car still has a beautiful idle, and pretty nice throttle, but only when not under load
  7. So I've had my 260 for a while now, and when I tuned the carbs in the past I've used a unisyn to balance and done the rest by ear. But this week I looked up more advanced ways of tuning like using a vacuum guage and using the tabs on the bottom of the carb to lift the piston.(I also tried using a colorTune but it turned out to be the most worthless thing I have ever bought, my engine was almost stalling on the road when it told me I was in the "bunson blue perfection zone") After using all these tests(besides the ridiculous colorTune) they all imply that I am too lean no matter what I do. Float bowls as rich as they will go and mixture knobs all the down. The car runs fine as just a cruiser, but step on it and it sounds like a dying moose. I don't know if this would make a difference with tuning, but when I bought the 260 it came with a 280zx L28 with an earlier intake(I think from a 240) and 4 screw SU's. Any ideas?
  8. Silly question... I'm quite new to ignitions in general, but I'm swapping my coil because it quite literally melted(due to stripped wire grounding I found recently). The car's a 260 with an l28 swap from a 280zx and it has an MSD blaster 2 that i'm replacing. So, now to the question. Is the capacitor that's currently connected to the coil really nescessary any more since its no longer running a points based dizzy?
  9. anyways... just wondering if i'm missing something crucial here
  10. So I finally found some time today to put in my new rear end today. Or at least attempt to. It's a 260z, and i got the halfshafts disconnected from the diff, then dropped out the diff. Here's where my problems come in. Part of the reason for picking up the "new to me" rear end is because my u-joints are shot and I found a guy with the rear end with halfshafts with really good condition u-joints for just a few bucks more than buying new u-joints. But now I can't get the halfshaft disconnected from the wheel side, and I pulled the four bolts that seem to be the only connection. I'm hoping that this is an idiotic answer. But it doesn't look like there's anything else that could be holding it internally looking at the halfshafts on the new unit. I'm just hoping some idiot didn't decide to do some unnescessary welding before I got the car.
  11. I'm running a 260z with an R180 and was wanting a higher rear end gear ratio. In my search I found that ring and pinion kits for nissan trucks with an r180 front diff are available at a much cheaper price than finding one classified for a "Zcar r180". Does anyone know if you could use these and swap them out in a 260?
  12. thanks john, You just saved me big bucks and alot of time
  13. My brake booster decided to die on me about a week ago. So i picked up a new one. This was the first time working with the brakes on my 260z, and i picked up some speed bleeders, they have worked really well for me in the past. Anyways, replacing the booster was no problem. But i have run into a problem with bleeding that i dont know how to explain, or at least explain without going and replacing a bunch of other brake components. I was able to bleed the front brakes just fine using the speed bleeders. But i have had issues with the back brakes. First off, when i tried to bleed the rear brakes, alot of rusty fluid came out, and then nothing came out, not even air, as if the line was clogged with rust or something, and i have no brake pressure. I traced my lines and checked connections for leaks, and checked if my bleeder had clogged and found nothing. And my the fluid levels in my master cylinder stay the same whenever i try to bleed the rear brakes. Im not an expert on automobiles, but am I going to have to replace my lines going to the rear brakes?
  14. I'm new to z's too. but from what i'v seen, it's pretty common to put in an MSD blaster 2 coil, and it's a pretty straight forward install
  15. well, just figured it out thanks to the night. I tried turning it over a few minutes ago and it started, but it was missing like crazy. Then i noticed a small spark around the coil every once in a while, I went to take a look and one of the wires connecting to the coil was missing some insulation and on occassion the spark was jumping to that wire. so I replaced the wire and now there's no spark jumping from wire to wire on the coil, and it runs fine. That also probably explains why I'v blown a couple of ignition fuses and why the car came with 15 spare fuses in the glove box. So hopefully it's a permament fix sorry about posting something that I would find the answer to in about an hour. and yah, I would like to get a new harness, but I'm just 16, and don't have a job as of now, so it's a little difficult to get enough money to cover much of anything on this car.
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