Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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- 26 replies
- 2.4k views
I pulled into burger king and saw smoke coming from battery area. I raised the hood and noticed the positive side of battery was grounded out on battery holder. I moved the battery enough to stop the ground and short. Now the car will not start. it will turn over and i have fire to the plugs. i do not hear the fuel pump running now. is there any other fusible links other than the 2 cap coverd one on the right fender. i have checked those and they seem to be ok. please help me:cry: scott
Last reply by Captain_Zeros, -
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Hey folks - I've recently revived my 280Z and am working to get it back on the road. I've drained and replaced the old fuel - there was some sediment present, but I was surprised at how little. The car turns over and starts easily, and idles like a champ, hovering around 850-900 RPM (it's an automatic, just fyi). However, when throttle is applied, power drops, the car will rev to 1500-3000 RPM or thereabouts and then pop, stutter and basically drop dead back to idle. The car never dies during this time. The existing fuel pump wails like a banshee. I'm not sure if it's an OEM pump or an aftermarket junker. I do have an aftermarket pump on-hand for temporary use, a…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 20 replies
- 3k views
Here you go. I've got more too. It's not pretty but it works.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 1 follower
- 12 replies
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So if I understand this Tech Tip courtesy of Blue, counter clockwise leans it? Clockwise richens? Mine is running really good and temp is cooler, gets great gas mileage but my plugs might be a little dark. So I think I should turn it counter clockwise just a scratch, correct? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 41 replies
- 4.2k views
Hey guys/gals. I just wanted to drop a line and say HEY ! After being away for a little while. Unfortunately I had to sell the ol' Z recently. ( actually I traded it for a Volvo :stupid: and sold my E.F.I. equipped 72' Celica too ) in order to move me and the family out of state. The good news is that shortly after hitting the ground here in Georgia, I landed a job on the Tech Support staff at DIYAutotune.com. ( http://www.diyautotune.com, if you watch the photos at the bottom, that's my Orange 280 Z ) Most of you probably already know us, but in case you don't DiyAutotune.com develops , builds, sells the MegaSquirt brand of engine management systems, and I'm sure…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
I have a 76 280. should i be worried about what gas we put in it? has anyone had any problems with the ethanol thats in most gas out there? its hard to find gas anymore that does not have it in it. and now its hard to tell witch ones do and don't have it.
Last reply by Kurbycar32, -
madkaw megasquirt 1 2 3
by Patcon- 29 replies
- 3.2k views
madkaw, I don't know if you have done this on another forum, but would you consider starting a thread documenting your MS conversion or just use this one. I don't spend time on Hybrid Z anymore and would find it interesting and possibly helpful in the future to follow your steps to converting over to EFI. I love the look and sound of triples but as I get older there are some aspects of EFI that I find really appealing... Charles
Last reply by Pomorza, -
- 2 replies
- 3.7k views
Well its summer time and time to get the ole lady under the knife. I bought the car ~6-7 months ago with alot of work already done but now i wanna take her to the next level The car is a 74 260z with a l28 swap and holley 4 barrel conversion The previous owner used to autox her so i guess that justifies the carb conversion but i plan on using her more for a street car. So now comes the swap and my ignorance. L28's came with EFI correct? But early model 260z's didnt. I am well aware that ill need a stock intake manifold and fuel rail but am unsure of whats next. I plan on replacing the rusted out stock fuel tank so il be going witha fuel cell in the rear and wil…
Last reply by madkaw, -
- 3 replies
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I have been replacing 38 yr old fuel lines and now have an annoying problem. I can now hear my fuel pump whine fairly loudly when the engine is started. Like you can hear it over the idle of the engine. What happened: I pulled the stinky supply line from the gas tank to the fuel pump. It appeared to me that the fuel pump inlet was a 1/2'', since my 5/16 line would not fit it and a 1/2 inch would. So I assumed it to be 1/2. Was this old line 2 sizes originally? Got some fuel rated 1/2 line from the Truck supply house since AZ and OR didn't carry that large of lines in stock. Put it on and now I hear the whine . Could this be from a larger fuel line capacity? Or a coinci…
Last reply by txvepr, -
- 67 replies
- 7.8k views
I'm pretty sure mine is toasted. I'm going to a junkyard that has 3 old Z's and want to know if I know how to check if they're good. Does the whole thing turn, electrical connector and all? Or does the connector stay and the 1/2" x 2" long metal strip with the wires wrapped around it turn by itself? I put the metal strip in a vise and it won't budge. Put 12 volts to it for at least 5 minutes and still no movement. The only way I see it could turn is where the connection slides in the housing. So if I find one that the electrical connection turns slightly to the right while in the housing would that mean it's probably good? Sorry for any confusion, I'm not too good…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 36 replies
- 11.2k views
The check valve on my fuel pump doesn't hold. As soon as the pump stops, my pressure drops off. I'm thinking I could fix the one in the pump, or I could bail and switch to a stand alone check valve up in the engine compartment. I'm thinking that would make future repair/replace easier if I ever have to mess with it again. So, anyone got a reason why I shouldn't do that? Is there some reason that a check valve built into the pump is a better idea? Anyone got recommendations for a stand alone check valve they've used with good results?
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 30 replies
- 2.6k views
OK, so I've built the corrector box (refer to the attached schematic) and when you plug it in series with the Coolant sensor, it works as you'd expect. You can even tell that the engine runs (or sounds) differently as you fool with the switch and potentiometer. Be mindful that this device is intended to be used to see how much your ECU electronics may have drifted over the years. So should you be using a sniffer to find out if, and how much drift there is, or how you otherwise determine that? I suppose you could use the old seat-of-the-pants method, but since that is so imprecise, any adjustments you'd make would probably be hit-or-miss. "Disclaimer" Also, pleas…
Last reply by TomoHawk,
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