Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Not sure what it is called but it is the bar that sprays the rocker arms with oil. I need one as I noticed when adjusting my valves that one end was very loose and the middle bar pretty much spun freely. On a side note how much would this affect my oil pressure. If anyone has a spare please let me know how much or where I can get one. Thanks, Mike
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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Went to go see an early 71 240z today, did a compression test and got 1 179 2 168 3 163 4 170 5 167 Exhaust(?) valve was stuck open for the first couple tries (0 pressure). Took off the valve cover and popped the spring back on right and got the 167 reading 6 200 why so high?? The engine is a L28 N42 block and early E88 head with SU carbs, been sitting for 2 years and I had to test it cold because the car doesn't run (no fuel) ps. What can I do to solve the valve stickiness?
Last reply by vling, -
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Hey everyone, I set the timing on my 72 240z at 10 degrees BTDC at around 750-800 RPMs. When I look at the cap and rotor though, there is a black mark at the extreme end of the rotor(all the way ccw) and there are marks on the cap to the extreme ccw side too. Would this mean that my timing is off? The cap is getting sorta blackened so I am assuming there is a good spark. Nothing really seems out of place except that and its lacking in low end power. It might be missing a little bit? But it seems hard to tell. Should I try and change it a little? It seems like it I retard it it runs worse. I am getting the carbs tuned on the 7th so I guess we will see how that goes too.
Last reply by MikeW, -
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I need to know the length of the rear-most exaust manifold stud. It must be a good deal longer than the rest because it anchors the water tube that goes behind the block and the engine lift hook as well. The set I bought a couple of years ago are all the same size. (I bought them from Reddat go figure) Thanks All, H Houghton
Last reply by vercingetorix, -
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My '70 #3212, had a spacer between the right engine mount bracket and the engine mount when I disassemble it. The left side had none. There was also a rectangular spacer between the transmission mount and the cross-member. They can be seen in my attached pictures. I thought maybe the left engine mount spacer was missing, so I went into the microfiche but don't see spacers shown for either the engine mount or transmission mount. Can anyone give me some input on them? Were they from the factory and used for alignment when needed? Thanks, Terry
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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Some secret here to get this off the cam sprocket?
Last reply by yetterben, -
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Does anyone know the "official color" of the mounts attached to the engine (The pieces going from the rubber part to the engine block). On my original '70, I have one mostly blue and one mostly black. Go figure. They look to be originally blue with black overspray. I am doing my best to keep the car as original as possible, but this one has me perplexed. Would prefer to have them both the same color. Rich
Last reply by motorman7, -
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Hey does anyone know of a cam grinding shop in the midwest who does good work? thanks frankie
Last reply by Frankensteinz2, -
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Ok, I am hoping for a little help here. I have been searching the website and I have not found a lot of information on this. Im thinking about doing a motor swap to an RB25DET in my 280Z. Question: Has anyone tried modding the L28 Inline 6 (turbo, motor mods, etc) and if so what kind of numbers are you seeing? To swap over to an RB25 its going to be $8k - $10k and Im wondering if I would get some good numbers by just modding up the inline 6? Thanks in advance... - Patrick:beer:
Last reply by S30TRBO, -
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Hey guys, I am curious what you more experienced z guys have to say about piston to cylinder clearance. I sent my engine to the shop and they told me i should have .002 clearance. He told me my worst piston is .004 and that with cast iron pistons, that was excessive. I looked in my engine book by Monroe and he says .002 is standard, however max clearance is .009. Can I stick with these pistons for daily driving or is this too much? One other thing, I bought a stock cam from MSA and they get theirs direct from Nissan. (I had to pay premium but I believe this will not be a softer after market cam) I am curious if my old rockers look fine would they be ok to stick with…
Last reply by Phred, -
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I was going over my engine, (a stock L28) and I noticed that the vacuum hose for the dstributor was a mess of plastic Tees and old, crumbly hose pieces. The vacuum hose for the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) wasn't much better. I know that the distributor needs to be connected to a vacuum source from the trottle area, ( i.e., to one of the vacuum ports on the BCDD) but I couldn't find any information to describe where the FPR should be connected. The FPR was connected to a vacuum port on the intake plenum, which didn't have much vacuum on it. Are there any other available vacuum sources on the trottle section, besides the BCDD? Just putting your finger over the ope…
Last reply by chiefmd, -
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my f54/p79 setup in my 240z never made a peep on the valve train....until today. I took it on a spirited run in the country with some pulls to 6 grand. when i got home i had some ticking going on. It actually only sounds like one or maybe two. Its not that bad and you can't really hear it over the fan unless you in the engine bay and listen. I have certainly heard worse sewing machine hondas in my day. Should i attempt to adjust or just roll with it?
Last reply by yetterben,
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davewormald
