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Remember all the 280s with upward bent front bumpers? ☹️ I had one.

"Anyone else"... Can't tell you how many of these we saw at our shop... Z owners REALLY need to know the lifting points AND make sure the shop or garage KNOWS where they can lift AND WHERE THEY CANNOT! Also HOW they can lift. That fender deformation is not that easy to repair and do it correctly. Unfortunately it's in a spot that's not that easy to notice and most owners don't see it before they leave the offending shop. Shops are famous for crushing frame rails and the flange under the rocker panels besides ruining front fenders...

I got my Datsun Z Car Series Oil Sending Unit Relocation / Remote Block done! I have only one for sale now, but more are on order. I am pretty proud of this design. Three outlet remote oil sending unit block. Metal 3D printed out of aluminum to look stock and mimics the 240z, 260z and 280z brake proportioning block design. Block has 3 outlets, all are 1/8 NPT. Comes with a custom length -3AN hose and one 1/8 NPT -3AN fitting and either a 1/8 BSPT or 1/8 NPT for the engine block side of the hose. Stock sending unit on a 240z is BSPT, this will require a NPT sending unit like this. [https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137](https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137) No sending units come with this order. Pictures of sending units are just for reference. Link: https://www.m2racing.com/shop/p/datsun-z-car-series-oil-sending-unit-relocation-remote-block

Glad it was nine years ago instead of nine months. My memory shelf life is not terrible but not fantastic either.

Bruce, Many thanks for all your hard work on this project. Jim

I'd make them pay for the repair

The pics are dead (Cause photobucket sucks!!), but yeah: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/51963-internally-regulated-alternator-trivia-bootstrap-current/ ?

Yes, that would indicate a failed to me as well. It failed open circuit. And by the way, for educational purposes... With the new digital meters, it's pretty much impossible to check diodes integrity using the resistance scale. It needs to be on the diode check setting. If you happen to have an old ANALOG meter with a needle sweep, you can often check diodes with the resistance scale. But analog meters, like the dinosaur, are either extinct, or headed that way. So what SHOULD you have seen? Using the diode check setting, you should have seen "OL" in one direction, and some small voltage in the other direction. Something like 0.50 to 0.80 Volts.

Here's the latest wiring diagram. I moved the horn relay to the interior side of the firewall. It was previously shown out in the engine compartment, but in reality it's actually located on the left side of the interior near the driver's left knee and the hood release pull. Changed the way the alternator and voltage regulators make connection to ground. And made a couple of minor wire color changes. And lastly... Thanks to the help from the folks here, it now has condensers. <V7.0> _obvious 240Z Wiring Diagram 7.0.pdf

Yeah, I'd be hot! 😡

I agree, I wouldn't touch it

Yikes!

Well he is a mechanic and used to also race a camaro single carburetor car. He is 69 years old. Ill guess ill just wait for the new parts to arrive.

You know that 3 and 4 have their own individual runners so I'm wondering if there's anything resulting from that? Maybe try snugging up the intake bolts? look for soot around the runners. Try accepting what the mechanic tells you instead of what you're reading on the www.com. He knows more than you, live with it and do what he suggest.

It's a one way valve. Blow and suck your breath in one side and see if it cuts off the flow. Very simple to test, so your mechanic is most likely correct. Personally I've never seen a bad one on a normal running car.

Whoa! I'd be POed. ☠️ The spot is farther back as you know but the tire jockeys don't.

Anyone else ever had these tire shop kids bend the lower fender when they use the factory jacking points? I just noticed it a week later. I guess I need to tell them to use the cross member and differential in the future. Or give them pictures. Kinda sucks. Americas Tires no less.

If you shake it and it rattles, it's good. If it doesn't, it means it's gummed up and should be replaced. They are available at any autoparts store for a few bucks.

My mechanic argues that the cause for plugs 3 and 4 fouling was due to a damaged pcv valve. I found one around my deposit. How can i ascertain this one is indeed working? How can i clean it?

I wouldnt touch it. That thing looks great! Supply the OE front lip and whatever else then "happy trails to you..." 😁

Love this discussion. I am learning a LOT. As a mechanical engineer, I do not look at wiring diagrams hardly ever. So this is a great review of circuits. Z cars have so much to teach!

I think it looks Great!

Some additional photos... rear tail light panel is now the correct color. ;)

You guys recommend any changes to bring more value? I've been thinking about stock front nose (getting rid of the airdam).

Your diode wire would be the upright part of the "T". This a 78 drawing so wire colors are wrong, but the T L and S orientation is common across the alternators.