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What about pulling the valve cover and see if any oil is making it's way up to the cam? If you try this don't put your drill on HIGH when spinning the distributor/oil shaft. I learned that the hard way.

When you write "won't prime" do you really mean won't pump? Filling it with oil is actually the priming. How do you know it's not pumping? Oil flow to the cam shaft, reading on the gauge, or what? You might remove the oil pressure sending unit and see if oil flows from the hole when you spin the pump. Also, if you packed vaseline on the inlet side of the pump it might have trouble pulling the oil in to pump it. You can only generate atmospheric pressure on the inlet side.

Just reinstalled the L24 in my 1972 240Z after refreshing it. By that I mean remove carbs, intake, exhaust, timing cover, etc. to clean them up, repaint the block, then reassemble. I did not touch any internals of the engine or head. The car ran perfect when motor was pulled a few months ago. Now I can't get the oil to prime. I'm using a new high volume "turbo" oil pump that does prime itself with a screw driver. But using a long tool to prime the engine (counter clockwise) the engine will not prime. I've also tried packing the pump with petroleum jelly but no luck. Both the old oil pump (which was working just fine) and this new pump do the same thing: no priming of the engine. Oil pan has 5.5 quarts of oil. The only thing I can think of is the pickup tube is not air tight. But before I pull the oil pan, anyone have any ideas to check first?

@72 Datsun 240z If you go with Motorsport Auto, make sure to give them a call and ask for our club discount. You'll get some percentage off your purchase. Apologies I don't know how much the discount is right now... Your member number is 45164

Gotcha, thanks for the info. I was going to replace it with dynamat

That is the sound deadening material, AKA "tar mat", that was factory applied to the floors by Nissan. Unfortunately they applied it to bare metal. It is safe to remove, search "tar mat removal" on this site, and you find lots of ideas. Like using dry ice. If you plan to replace the tar mats later, and want close to original, see our downloads area, in the cad files section, I posted some tar mat templates there.

Well, that's the best picture I've seen yet. It looks more like a figure 8 to me. I

Hi all - Am I able to remove this black panel without weakening the floor (as it seems to be welded or glued to it and is pretty hard)? I pulled up the carpet tonight for a replacement, scrubbed the floor with a nylon brush to remove surface rust, and was able to scrub a small hole in the floor which I don't appreciate. I want to see if there is more under this big black piece (circled in blue), but if it is there to strengthen the floor (as it is very hard), I don't want to start yanking on it. Any ideas what it is?

Rockauto has a good reputation and their price is better. Shipping to Spain might be the decider for you. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,suspension,shock+/+strut,7556 Seems like you should be able to find a supplier over there. KYB EuropeKYB Shock Absorbers - KYB EuropeKYB shock absorbers - world class quality suspension from one of the worlds largest manufacturers of shock absorbers

I've not really seen any bad press on these Koni adjustables either. Motorsport Auto - The Z Store - KONI Sport Adjustable Gas Strut, Rear, 70-8/74 240Z-260Z Coupe

I used a big flat head screwdriver and put the edge of the blade in the slots

Those look nice! Cost? Where to order?

https://zcardepot.com/products/kyb-front-shocks-struts-240z-260z-280z?srsltid=AfmBOoriVW4h-_3WRprZ41sp8sF_qxqnJ0CDZWmNcWfHwZ4lcc32N5s1 Will these one fit my 1972 240z? I would like to change the complete set. For certain both front shocks are worn. Is there a better supplier or is this one ok?

NEW PRODUCT!!!! 1970 - 1978 DATSUN 240z 260z 280z Rear Trailing Arms 3/4" Chromoly Heim joints Reinforced Mainshaft at Bushings Tested on 1000hp Drag/Drifter

Opinions please! @zKars @grannyknot @Diseazd @madkaw @Mark Maras and all you other CZC's readers. I was thinking around $200 for the bare head? I found a P90 that pushed this E31 to the kid's table.

You may as well do the brakes too, you know, while you're mechanic is out of town. Rotors/drums resurfaced/replaced and new pads/shoes.

Richard, I have been using Vredestein Sprint Classic 175HR14 88H on my ‘71 series1 Z and they are pretty much a perfect size match to the Bridgestone Super Speed Radial - 20 original tires.

This is what is so fantastic about this site and the rare types of parts that are needed and pretty much unavailable to purchase new. Thanks to everyone for helping to keep these Ladies on the road!

Also: https://www.vredestein.com/classic-tires/products/990-SPRINT-CLASSIC/ Tire Rack link for the above tires: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Vredestein&tireModel=Sprint+Classic&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=7HR4SC&tab=Sizes

The tread design of the Michelin XAS 175 HR14 looks pretty close to original. Here's a photo of my original spare tire of my 12/70 car.

Parts are on the way. Bonzi Lon

My 7-73 still has it. It has very sharp edges and I've cut myself on it several times in the past 48 years. Bonzi Lon

KYB makes good shocks. I have used them on other vehicles and not been disappointed.

Im just asking for good quality absorbers ths has nothing to do with the vapor lock condition leading to rough acceleration.

Look here: https://cokertire.com/amfinder/index/index?finder_id=33511382