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As I'm working on a 260z engine, I found somebody decided to plug some holes in the balance tube by using two 10mm straight thread cap screws (bolts). The original holes were tapered but they forced metric cap screws into the holes, ruining the threads. Notice they were only able to get the screws in part way. I've attach a photo, I circled the two locations. Without drilling the holes out I was able to thread the holes with a 1/8-27 tapered pipe tap, thus allowing me to use 1/8" plugs. All other plugs I've found seem to be the proper threads. Jim

Yes, I understand how they are designed, I just wanna use them how I wanna use them! LOL I really wouldn't like the look even if the heads DID bottom out, still kinda klunky looking. The BSPP plugs on the other hand (they have a lower profile head), look pretty good, but they won't bottom out in the tapered holes.....so I guess I could tap the holes to a parallel thread and use thread sealant. I think you are right though, once I get all the holes I need to plug measured, I will order the allen screw type.

Lol!! The Yarbinator. Love it! ☺️

Tapered pipe threads are supposed to tighten up on the threads, not the underside of the head. In fact, if the head were to bottom out, the threads would run the risk of not being tight enough to seal. In other words... The hex headed plugs you have there are working exactly like they should. You would stand a better chance of achieving your "clean look" with the recessed hex head "Allen screw" type plugs.

Little more poking around today. I ended up just ordering a HEI module specific heat sink off amazon. I had considered just finding some sheet metal or aluminum, but I didnt have anything laying around and a small chunk from the hardware store was almost as much as the heatsink itself. I think its going to end up on the other side of the strut tower. There is a nice empty space there I can utilize. I don't really want it there, but for the sake of simplicity, thats where I am going to put it. There was a post around that had someone replacing the guts of the old module with the new HEI but I cant find it. I might do that, but mount the box on the firewall or something. I like that it would appear more period correct. I started looking more closely at the fuel system, pretty much all the rubber is dry rotted and unusable. Same with the vacuum lines, so I ended up ordering a bunch of hose and Ill just replace all of it. Im not sure about the hard lines yet. I jacked up and crawled under the car and drained the fuel tank. It was pretty much empty but the stuff that was in there was.......nasty. The fuel was incredibly dark and full of debris. I know there is a place in town where I can get the tank reconditioned, so I'll look into that. While I was under there, I took some pics of the undercarriage. I dont think its too bad. It was a New Mexico car after all.

OK, here we go..... The threads on the balance tube all seem to be BSPT (1/8" and 1/4") The threads on my intake manifold where the water lines used to go are still a mystery. I have a feeling they are just a metric thread (not pipe thread), so I will have to do more investigating when I have an assortment of metric bolts to try. Also, my thermostat housing is at my storage, so I cannot check those outlets right now, either. I guess everything is a process......stay tuned! Here's my new dilemma; The pipe plugs I ordered from McMaster for sizing purposes are external hex head, and they do not thread deep enough into the balance tube for the head to bottom out and seat on the flat of the balance tube. Not the clean look I was going for. I think I'll try the internal hex drive (like a regular socket set screw) plugs and hope they sit flush or a little recessed when seated. If I don't get a good, clean look that I like, I may have to weld the holes up and grind them smooth. Oh, the lengths we'll go to for these cars!!!! LOL

Sounds good - I'll give it a shot. Thanks

If the light is right you can probably see the notches through the hole. In practice you just jam a small screwdriver in the hole until you feel it grabbing the notches of the adjusting wheel, Keep jabbing to get the wheel to move. It's kind of tedious, you don't get much movement per unit of effort.

Mine actually has 2 holes on it which is weird since all of the drums I've seen online only have 1. So I just spin the drum until the hole is near the wheel cylinder then use a small screwdriver to turn the shoes in?

There's a hole in the brake drum. Had a rubber plug in it. Might still be there.

Gotcha, I'll halt the screw hunt. How do I gain access to the area with the adjusting wheel on the back?

Z's don't. No guarantee that the drums will come off even if you back the adjusting wheel off. People have had to sacrifice the drums if they're really stuck. But, the best place to start is the instructions in the FSM. Back off the wheel, see what happens.

So I crank the shoes in and the drum should come off? All of the other car drums I've worked on have a locking screw that needs to be removed first...

Actually...

Were you shipping as a company/corporation or as a private individual? I had wondered if S30.world's paperwork problems were actually tariff problems. I wonder if the guy buying the E30 head had driven across the border to purchase it, would he have had to pay the tariffs? Or how much trouble would he get in to if he didn't declare any purchases. Or called it a personal item. In a way, it is. https://www.cbp.gov/travel/us-citizens/canada-mexico-travel#:~:text=All%20articles%20acquired%20in%20Canada,TTB)%20regarding%20individual%20state%20requirements.

I had similar issues trying to buy parts out of Europe. Specifically Latvia. I needed some BMW fuel injectors and there seem to be a number of NOS BMW parts in Latvia. They couldn't tell me what the final costs would be because of the ever changing tariff situation. In the end I had to source them somewhere else. I am hoping that at some point these issues will get resolved, so business can know the rules and get back to work...

Nope. They're a pain without any lock screws.

Yep the wheels turn fine. Isn't there a lock screw that holds the drum on?

If the brake isn't locked up, and the wheel turns, the likely cause is rust between the axle flange and the brake drum. I'd use a few long penetrating oil soaks and use a hammer to hit the drum between the wheel studs a few times. My next choice would be heat.

Hi all - I have a leaky right rear wheel cylinder and can't figure out how to get the rear drum off and the FSM basically says 'take it off.' On most cars, there's a lock screw somewhere then you just smack the cover and yank it off but I can't find that screw and its driving me nuts lol Anyone have an idea? -chase

But the price of obesity drugs are much cheaper.

Story #2 continued While I was at UPS, those lovely people suggested I try DHL. They “suggested” that DHL seems to be able to get anything to the US with less “questions” and “risks” but the costs would be likely double, Like $400…. So after frank conversations with the buyer, we agreed to go that route. Without saying too much, the DHL experience was easier. Their online shipping app still requires a detailed item description so they know what it is, but the only concern the guy at the drop off center had was that it didn’t contain any fluids or oil. It’s on its way for $418CAD….. And also worth mentioning, the cost story is not complete. For UPS and DHL, and I believe FEDEX as well, the receiver is on the hook for the Duty/Tariff/tax costs before they will release it to the receiver, rather than the shipper like Canada Post, and we don’t know what those costs are. Yet. Will get there in about 3 days. Hopefully he will share those numbers. Conclusion about this experience? Again, unless the need to buy my items is critical, and the buyer has deep deep pockets, I can’t see most US buyers actually buying anything from me.

We’d need the @Yarb inator to help us with the electrons.

Winner winner chicken dinner, we have spark Now im gonna look into some heat sink and stew on where i want to mount it. Time to move on to the fuel system. I know the fuel is toast and the tank will need to be cleaned. I’ll probably start on removing that and see what condition the lines are in. I’m excited!