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The right-hand plastic "pin" that functions at a pivot for the fuse box cover is broken off on BOTH of my 1972 cars. There is a thread in the Interior topic from July 2010 where it was suggested to simply drill out the divot left behind and epoxy in a short section of rod made from either plastic or wood. So far, so good. However, if my memory serves me, there is also some kind of V-shaped spring that goes on that pin to hold the cover open. And, I'm sure the right-hand pin is longer than the left-hand pin. Can someone either confirm or correct my memory of a spring as well as measuring the length of the pin? BTW, that white electrical connector in the photo is for one of the switches controlling my power windows.

Your links are broken. Maybe create a Google Drive photo album and provide a link. Or just copy and paste them in to your post. You can do that on CZCC. And, if you can't get a picture up, a list of the accessories might help. All the way to the AFM, or back to just a water pump? Exhaust manifolds? Alternator? Good luck. Somebody will buy it.

Factory new (not rebuilt) L28 engine with all accessories for sale. It has been stored in a garage for 30 years (surface dirt) . Located in Southern California - Make me an offer.

I'm no expert but in the inertia switches I've installed I've mounted them to a hard point so any energy exerted on the unibody could be picked up by the switch.

To quote a favorite Stars Wars character, "Meesa no lie."

The frame rails (body stiffeners/subframe) are available. A not uncommon problem. https://zcardepot.com/search?q=frame+rail&type=best-selling The car has independent rear suspension. There are two drive shafts in the back and no single axle. The inspection probably identified a misaligned wheel. That could simply be worn control arm (transverse link) bushings. Or even spindle pin bushings. Also readily available. https://zcardepot.com/search?q=bushings&type=product One of the main problems with the AFM swaps is that the EFI system is designed for a certain range of air flow. Once the AFM flap is wide open there's no more control. Nissan adds 27% extra fuel at WOT, probably to compensate for that. Since you changed three/four things at once it might be worthwhile to go back to the original AFM and see how things are. Also, 28 psi at idle is not drastically low. Was the measurement taken with the engine running? There's always more tuning to do with the EFI system after they've sat unused for a while. Good luck.

Hoping someone out there, preferably in the Midwest, has a front & rear type 2 set for the ZX that they'd like to part with. Can be damaged/cracked as well. Would be willing to meet somewhere as well. Thanks.

So i got everything working. I found an issue, i dont know if this was from facotry or the previous owner changed the wiring harness for the headlights but the black/red wire for ground was wired to the center post for the headlights instead of the larger white/red which is how the 1977 wiring diagram shows. I changed everything and put new lights in and it works. However i need new connections because many of the connectors are completely broken and fragile.

Well Mike, you are one of my Masters.

That’s an awesome piece of kit! Once the car has been repair and on the road again I’ll come visit to test it out!

I agree with you, Captain, and patcon that I should avoid the B/W associated with the VR and coil as there will probably be enough issues with the electrics once I get everything back together and try starting the car. Running another 16 AWG wire into the engine bay isn't that big a deal. Excellent advice on an inertia switch, cgsheen1. Do you have a preferred brand and, perhaps more importantly, location for mounting such a device? I was once a passenger in a car that was forced head on into a concrete median barrier by an aggressive driver, thankfully the impact was at low speed, and its inertia switch operated. I recall the driver having to reach down near the E-brake pedal to reset it so we could continue on to our destination.

Route 66 Auctions wich is owned by E&R Classics in Waalwijk (The Netherlands). Honestly I don’t recommend ever buying a car through there auction. The bidding was vague and none transparent as you can’t see who bid on the car. I don’t need to know the bidders name but some reference or time stamped bidding history would have been nice as I strongly suspect the seller was driving the price up. The auction fee was also pretty high (9% + 21% tax on the 9% auction fee) especially for the lack of service and buyers protection the auction company offers. I already had contact with them over the phone, the guy told me to send an email to there administration and hung up on me. That was pretty rude but fine. So I emailed my findings to there administration and this morning I got an email in which they tell me “the condition of a vehicle can be subject to a persons perception”. I get this but then they shouldn’t have claimed the car was free of rust and structural damage. Basically they try and tell me to just get lost. This will be the first and last time I will ever buy a car from or through that company.

The special meter.. (Never used? and 40+ years old..)

Happy ending on the 280z injection, well done Mitchel! Repair on these injection systems can be opening a big can of worms! I hope to put my engine back into the car in the next 1-2 years and hopefully it wil still run as good as it came out but one never knows for sure.. I got myself a injection test meter for these systems original from Nissan/Datsun! So if you want to test your system with this special tool we can do that some time. Which auction house screwed you with the rustfree nonsens? Greetings from Limburg, Mart.

Good news! First off, the Ford/Mazda/Toyota (and so on) AFM actually works! In my opinion this is a huge win for everybody that wants to keep these cars alive. I started of by opening up the new AFM and having a look inside. To open the new AFM was a bit more difficult than the Datsun AFM as they used a ton of silicon sealant and plugged the idle air screw from factory. The sealant can be carefully removed with a knife and the plug can be drilled out to access the idle air screw. Inside the AFM looks a lot like the Datsun unit with the exact same functionality. The resistance values between pin 6-8 and 8-9 where higher then the Datsun AFM but I still hooked the AFM up to a 12 volt battery to check for the voltage outputs as that actually matters for the stock Datsun ECU. In stock configuration from the junkyard Ford (USA) Probe the AFM gave a reverse logarithmic signal range from 1,42 to 7,77 volt. Starting at 1,42 volts when the AFM is closed and then rising quickly to around 5 volts before slowly climbing up to 7,77 volts. This is within range of what I was expecting so I decided to try and install the AFM into the car to test it out and try and dial it in. The new AFM is significantly larger than the old Datsun AFM. To install the new AFM, the intake booth and the rubber booth between the AFM and throttle body, needed to strech over the larger AFM unit. Luckly both where flexible enough and didn’t tear. The stock electrical connector just plugs right in so that was great. The new AFM unit unfortunately doesn’t have bolt holes in the bottom like the Datsun unit but mounting can be fixed by a custom 3D printed or metal bracket. I just left mine loos as I just needed to test it for now and drive to the inspection station. I had to tighten the spring (clockwise) a bit more than the 3 teeth described in the Australian forum post but that may be due to my engine having other issues causing the car to run rich. After installing the car fired straight up and with a bit of tightening and loosening of the spring I got the car to run way better than before. One nice thing about the new AFM is that you can adjust the spring gear a lot easier. Just carefully lift the little arm to the left and use your finger or a flathead screwdriver to adjust the gear. Then just let the little arm go and make sure is seated properly (rotate the gear anti clockwise a bit to properly seat it). The blue mark was the original tooth position but in the picture I rotated the gear the wrong way. As a side note I did clean my injectors and replace the fuel pressure regulator at the same time. I also found out my AAR was faulty and leaking a lot of air past the valve so I disconnected that and plugged both sides of the hose. The cheap meter I installed said about 28psi which is low but as the car is running rich and not lean I will exclude the FPR and fuel pump as a problem for now. My injector are probably just bad which sucks but the car still runs good enough for now. I also replaced my Bosch spark plugs for NGK BR6ES with 1,05mm gap and a replaced my 1,5 Ohm ignition coil with a 0,6 Ohm one just in case. I had the car inspected yesterday and the CO gas values where down to 2,4% (4,5% allowed) and all other values where good so I’m happy. Although the car ended up failing due to rusted thru frame rails and a crooked rear axle probably caused by a twisted chassis. I started a legal dispute with the auction company and previous owner as the both sold the car as “without rust and free from structural damage” but that is something for another thread. This probably the end of this thread. Although feel free to revive it if somebody has any questions and I’ll try to help out. I believe that posting information like this will help massively to understand these cars and keep them alive .

Hi Nils, A name on that Swiss dealer list jumped straight out at me. I believe Rudolf Seiler of Fischbach was the brother of Ernst 'Hunter' Seiler of Romanshorn, a well-known Porsche dealer and racing driver from the late 1940s through to the late 60s. I guess car sales concessions ran in the family. Sorry for the digression!

Good morning and greetings from Germany/Europe. After reading along here for a long time, I am now introducing myself as the ‘marketing guy’ from S30.world. Even if this might be a mistake, because I'm speaking up as a "newbie" and will surely get 40 knives rammed into my back. But I'm willing to take that risk. So please forgive me if my language isn't perfect and I don't know most of the people here in the forum. I think the community here has been connected for a very long time and it's difficult to let someone outside the USA into the "inner circle". But let me at least try, and I hope that a certain amount of friendliness in all directions will certainly do everyone good. As Chris already wrote, we are busy every day doing our best and put a lot of effort into understanding and paying attention to every detail as best we can. Of course, the fact that our team is located all over the world also plays a major role in this. We are in the Netherlands, Hungary, Switzerland, Australia, England, Japan, the USA... This is very important because the S30 series was not developed solely for Japan, nor solely for the USA, nor solely for Europe. The entire S30 family is a globally designed car. And every export market is different (even though, as we know, the USA makes up a large proportion of exported cars). But not many people know that European cars are significantly different from those in the USA. The fact that cars in Portugal are also VERY different from cars in the rest of Europe is also an interesting story. But why is that? What impact do laws in Australia have on cars in the USA, for example? What do changes to cars in Japan have to do with cars in Europe? Why are there still 260Zs and no 280Zs in Europe and other export countries in the years 76-78, while in the USA it is the other way around? These are all questions whose answers are connected like a tight net. So you should never look at just one export market. That would not be the whole story. We, as a group of people spread across the globe, gather our knowledge and try to answer questions. (For example: who knew that between 1969 and 1978 there were 10 different factory hubcaps for the Zs?) We are simply passionate nerds who not only restore cars, run a museum and reproduce parts, but are also on the hunt for all these undiscovered mysteries. I think it matters less which words in our press release are "allowed" from this forum – because surely it is also our goal to appeal to people who haven't owned a Z for 50 years, but are new to the topic. Above all, it's about sharing all our experience (people are already laughing about the fact that I was born in a Datsun. My family has been driving Datsuns since the early 1970s, and the first car I ever sat in was a 1973 Cherry E10, a model that wasn't even available in the USA) and to create a place that inspires all Z fans worldwide. I therefore invite all sceptics to visit our museum in the Netherlands and take a look at the cars. It's certainly exciting to see how they are built. Incidentally, we are very grateful if anyone on location notices that, for example, a screw is the wrong colour or a hose does not have the correct number. But please don't judge something like that just because you see photos on a computer screen. Come and visit, you are invited, and I am sure that we are all nice people who share the same hobby.

Dear all, My name is Chris Visscher and I am the owner of S30.world. For the past 10 years, I have focused a significant part of my life on increasing the appreciation of the Datsun 240Z/Nissan Fairlady Z, which we all cherish. With my partner Gustav combined we did about a total of 60 restorations to date. I would like to thank everyone here for their feedback. We are removing the white 240Z with VIN HLS30-15662 from the masterpiece program. You are right, the underside of the car has been completely repainted, and that should not be the case. The press release states that it is factory correct. You are right, it should say: as close as possible to when they left the factory. I am the last person to admit that a complete factory-correct restoration is impossible. All I can say is that we did our very best and made special rubber mats (for the 1969 cars), special air ducts(for the 1969 cars), a fuel tank for each of the different years, the insulation mats under the paint on the bottom, behind the dashboard , etc.etc etc I myself have dismantled many cars that were produced from October 1969 to the end of 1970 and compared all the parts with other project cars. So I have done everything to gain experience. In addition, we have different first paint cars starting with #2xxx and #19xxx that we have used as examples. We will certainly have made mistakes, but I can tell you that we have done everything we can to do it as well as possible. I am proud of the result and I hope you are too! If you want to help us and the community and have further feedback on the cars or the website, please email it to chris@s30.world, I appriciate it very much! Thank you in advance for your help.

As somebody respected in his field, I'd hope that you might empathise with people who are attempting to restore cars as close as is reasonably possible to how they were when they were new and making them available to people who understand and appreciate that intention, whilst also understanding the implicit truth that it is simply not possible to attain perfection in terms of factory finish. That should go without saying, regardless of any over-enthusiastic sales patter written in their second language. Constructive, objective and informed peer-group critique is something that we can all continue to learn from and the classiczcars forum is a good place to do that. It is nice when wise old heads pass on their knowledge and experience. But S30.World appears to be the target of some 'Not From Round Here' type finger poking which I would hope looks just as parochial and small-minded to you as it does to me, and it would be refreshing to see an occasional positive comment with regard to the spirit, if not the product of their efforts.

Both are under the center dash. In the blower switch harness is a BLUE that is A/C power. And there is also a 2-pin connector with a B/W and a G for power to the fuel pump. I always put an inertia switch in that circuit.

Before I hand my Chassis for final (re-)work and alignment to the bodyshop again, I want to make sure that I didn't miss details. Over the years, many shops and people have worked on the car, and installed replacement panels from various sources. So the risk is high that some small things are not correct. For that reason, I try to test-fit as much as possible to figure out problematic areas, so that I can discuss with the bodyshop how to fix it, before it's too late, when the paint is on. It also forces me to take some decisions in which direction to go with certain areas, and gives me the opportunity to go through my stockpile of parts and see what's missing for the final assembly, and order some stuff here and there. One of those areas where I identified a small issue was on the rear lower body. The EU-spec cars have an additional number-plate light in the rear bumper, and therefore there is a hole in the rear panel. Obviously, all the replacement panels are based on the US-market models and therefore that hole is missing. Luckily, my man Heiko was kind enough to measure the position and diameter on his unrestored EU-spec 240Z. Here are the measurements, in case you need it: And here we go, the hole is in: I realized the Tank needs to go out (again) to have the hole cleaned from the inside: But that also gave me the opportunity to replace the rusty J-hook bolts with the replated ones, which I got recently. I have ordered New ones already, as these are definitely not the nicest ones, but still better than the rusty ones which were installed before. After that, I was able to install the rear bumper: And the rear number plate lighting. Please note, it's still all just a quick mock-up to identify problems. Most parts are only temporary and will be replaced by nicer ones later. So with this, I think my test-fit of the rear-end area is completed. Luckily, that area doesn't have any issues anymore, Unfortunately there are still some areas here and there, which need to be addressed. But from my point of view, I'm nearing completion of what I can do myself, and I feel confident to deliver the car as-is to the bodyshop to fix the remaining things and have it painted, soon. Oh, and I also got this early Swiss Datsun dealer list, recently. I love how it appears to be a copy from a type-writer or something. Unfortunately, there is no date on the list, but I assume from the looks of it that it's from the late 60ies or early 70ies. I got a palette with some exciting stuff yesterday, too - which I will show you soon, so stay tuned for another update in the coming days.

My 78 280Z does not have that bumper stop. I’ve got a couple from ZCD. If any one is interested send a pm.

My 8/70 240 definitely had them, just replaced them. Orientation is 90 deg out from what I expected, but I installed them in place of the old remnants.

Pics or it didn't happen.

If you are looking for a wire out in the engine bay that goes hot only when the ignition is ON, I think your only* choice is the B/W wire going to the voltage regulator. *There is also the same B/W wire going to the coil (+) side, but I'm thinking it would be better to keep your connection away from the ignition system if possible.