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From the thread, "That little Top Hat in the pictures only comes with a new Speedo cable. However all is not lost. It is just a secondary seal. You can go to home depot and get a flat rubber washer that will do the same thing. They come in various sizes and have approx a 1/8" dia inner hole." @Chickenman

The seal I need is like the seal on the right

This has the same part number. #51 in the microfiche. Datsun Z Transmission Case & Fit...Datsun Z Transmission Case & Fitting (Automatic-3N71B) (F...

I bought the seal from Nissan, p/n 32709-14600 if that's the one you need. Mine is a manual but the speedo housing should be the same. There's some more info in this thread. Here's some for sale... https://www.google.com/search?q=32709-14600&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Gang - I'm also in a classic British car restoration forum and they had a really cool thread idea that I wanted to bring here: Did you buy your Datsun brand new and you still own it to this day? If so, please post the oldest photo of you & your car in this thread, and maybe write a little story about what prompted you to buy it at the time! * Also welcome in this thread are stories & photos from Z owners where another family member (parent, grandparent, etc) bought the car new and it has stayed in the family until present day Looking forward to reading your story! I know @jfa.series1 has one!

I am sorry. I need the seal for that Speedo cable attaches to the Automatic transmission

Where in the world can I buy or does anyone have a fix for a speedo cable leaking where it screws into the transmission on a 72 automatic transmission Thank you

I drove it about 15 miles to the car show, never touched the brakes, just used the E-brake. Front wheels were heated up some. Got home and they were both about 170-180°. I took apart the calipers, they seemed okay. Very hard to remove a couple of the pistons. Oiled them up and reassembled. Checked the wheel bearing rotation starting torque with my fish de-liar. They were both way too tight. Replaced the grease in the wheel bearings with fresh grease and torqued them correctly this time. Went for a drive, problem solved. Wow, fun car!

I was given one of those years back for Christmas! That went straight in the can!😂

Darn it, you locked in my grammar error. One the. It has the same mileage now as when it had dual filters. That's good, for the engine.

I am about to start on the task of adjusting the profile my Hitachi SU needles (I have SM needles installed). I read this thread in preparation: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59153-modified-su-carb-needles-for-l28/ @240260280 has detailed knowledge on the subject which is impressive! I wish I had the tools and knowledge to do what he knows should be done. Instead, I am thinking about rigging up a camera to record a video of the piston movement under certain real world scenarios. For that recording, I am thinking of putting black marker lines on the piston that equate to the station positions on the needle. For the real world scenarios, I would like to record a series of various part throttle applications. I am hopeful that I can locate a specific range of the needle that will need to be modified. Very generally, I believe I have good AFRs at idle, and cruise (at 50 mph for example), and at wide open throttle. On the other hand, I have lean or very lean conditions at part throttle and during closed throttle deceleration (accompanied by popping in the exhaust). I will be making some more AFR reference runs before I attempt to modify the needles to confirm. But then, I am hoping to record the videos, and remove a miniscule amount of material from the "pick up" needle stations. The segment of the needle I need to modify should be confirmed by reviewing the video. Anyone have additional recommendations or thoughts?

Yes. The first time this happened I didnt notice it and one of the valve stems actually split, in my garage. So I adjusted all the teeth, got them super tight, but still spin. The after market ones are super tight, it took an hour to get them all on trying not to ding them up. New tires, all balanced with no noticeable vibration in the rear. But before I adjusted them, all for corners spun. Ther are about 1 inch tabs that fully encompass the cap with serrated teeth.

Well apparently bypassing the filter and sucking dirty air into the clean side of the air filter is a thing. Wonder how long THAT engine has been breathing dirty air. Also a whole bunch of hokey-ness going on here. ☺️ Hahaha!! :

Looks like I never finished this thread. I replaced the front yoke and took the propeller shaft to a local shop for balancing. It was there opinion that the shop that did the shortening of the prop shaft did not balance it. When I went to install the shaft into the transmission, the "slop" (the amount I could push the yoke radially) was a lot. As an estimate from looking, I'd say I could move the yoke in any direction about .020". So, that is about a mm of movement radially. It might have been a bit more than that. So, I decided to replace the bushing that is in the tail shaft of the transmission. Looking back on it, I think the bushing developed wear because of the driveshaft being out of balance for the first 500 or so miles I put on the car. I think that the bushing was sacrificial - meaning made of softer material than the yoke. Anyway, after putting the new bushing in (removal and reinstallation of the transmission was required), the new yoke was tight (no discernable movement at all radially). With everything back together, the vibration that caused me to start this thread is gone!

Do they always spin opposite the direction of rotation? Like the wheel is leaving them behind? Maybe they're actually "walking" due to vibration or flexing. That might show as unexpected spin direction. I have a board in a floor that slowly opens a gap on one end after many months of traffic. Must be something about the bumps on the bottom or in the groove that ratchet it over. I kick it back in to place with my foot and it slowly works its way back open. If the caps are walking you might be able to twist the clamping portion so the teeth aren't biting. Can't remember exactly how they clamp to the rim. I assume that you know they're spinning because the valve stems are suffering impingement.

You've got to be kidding!!! Five minutes after wearing that, my wrist would look like this:

I have three sets of D hubcaps and one of the aftermarket set from Resurrected Classics. I can't get them to stop spinning on the wheels. I figured the original sets were maybe too tired, so I put on the aftermarket set, which are extremely tight, yet the rear caps spun in about 4 miles. I can get the front ones to not spin, but the rear wheels just won't stop. I've had them off at least 4 times to adjust, and I'm not a lead foot, but that shouldn't matter. In almost 30 years of running hubcaps on 240z's, I've never experienced this. I tried RTV, rotating the wheels, adjusting the tabs, nothing works. Maybe the wheels are worn where the teeth grab the caps? It's a 1/71 car.

And BAT doesn't seem to mind the jail time issue!!

Talk about incestuous marketing!

One the "The 240Z Guild" cars is up on BaT again. It was sold on BaT in 2017 by The Guild then "reacquired" by The Guild in early 2019 then sold on BaT again in 2019. Now it's up on BaT again. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-29/ $26,500 https://bringatrailer.com/2018/01/13/bat-auction-success-story-regrets-reconciled-with-purchase-of-1972-datsun-240z/ Success story https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-108/ $50,000 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-362/

I can't even wear a watch.

Happy to join conversations, exchange ideas, and pick up new insights as I go. I'm interested in understanding different opinions and sharing my input when it's helpful. Interested in hearing different experiences and building connections. Here is my web-site-AutoMisto24 https://automisto24.com.ua/

What a fantastic shot! That could be a poster.

Thanks... the New Z is awesome to drive... however I only have 800miles and need 400 more miles to brake it in. Once broken in , I can rev above 4000 RPM and drive it in a more spirited fashion.