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I fell off the spring cleaning bandwagon pretty quick but I will get some pictures today and post them. Maybe, with some help from the forum I can come up with a price. It's not OE anymore, bigger valve seats and an attempt at some minor porting. Came with a 240 I bought years ago as part of a hopped up 2.8 engine build.

My 12/70 car has the clip.

https://www.zzxdatsun.com/

What is the link to your site?

Hi John, I used vise grips and heated the manifold with a propane torch. It makes marks, but I polished most of that out and re-plated the part. If I had to do it again, I would try to find some sheet metal that was the thickness of the slot. Maybe cut a 8 inch by 2 inch strip and slide the long edge in the slot. Use heat and, grab the plate like handles.

Triple SU carbs...I've never seen that. That car must really scoot! Sorry you "might" have to let it go. I don't know your situation, but everyone who has had a 240Z always says...."Man, I wish I had kept that car." So, again, I'm sorry you could lose her. She is very, very nice! I found mine on BaT. I can't imaging letting go of her...

Hi. How much for the E31?

jup, i got a clip on the chokecables feb 1971 (USA) car.. my '72 car had one too. that was a (Dutch) euro version.

My son has a 72 240Z that he was trying to restore. Last I talked with him, however, it sounded like he was giving up. It needs a number of areas adjacent to both rear wheels and there could be more patch work. With the wheel area he keeps saying that it is inclusive of the structural areas...and we may have the equipment, but nobody is a good welder/sheet metal worker. I was wondering if there are any recommended folks in Seattle that you all have used. Appreciate it Bob Weaver

Exactly what tool is used to extract this threaded fitting? I hope there is some type of socket that engages these slots. Help!

Looking for a set of 15 x 6 American Vector wheels for 280 Z

Yes, those fuse links are actually mine - just haven't had time to update my site. Hell, haven't even taken a picture! Should probably get on that.

@Captain Obvious thanks for the info on the alternator. I will check that out when I get to that point. Also, new fusible links and harness firewall grommet just arrived today from jdm-car-parts.com. I will attach them in the next week or two here.

Yes, they are on order.😄

And you are planning to put springs on them thangs, aren't you? Haha!!

Pretty car! Aught to be fun

Get a respirator so you can ignore the fumes and avoid any unnecessary exposure

And about that wire in the rear... The antenna has a ground connection on the wiring diagrams. I haven't been into that corner of an early car yet, but I thought (without actually seeing it), that antenna's ground connection came from being bolted to the body. Now that I see your harness, I suspect that ground connection to the antenna is NOT simply from connection to the body, but is in fact, a dedicated ground wire leading to the antenna. Do you have an antenna for the car? Is there a ground lead bullet connection attached to it? I've found several other similar issues with the factory wiring diagrams. In many locations, they didn't do a good job of conveying how grounds were connected. And lastly... Yes, the early rotors had holes in them. Aftermarket replacements did away with that, but they are an early car thing.

Yes, the early cars had a fusible between the alternator and the harness. (It's on the wiring diagram I've posted up on the site 😄) : Your spade connector looks a little black and crispy. It's a high amperage connection, so it's super important that it is a good connection. Clean and tight! I also found corrosion underneath the washer on the ground "E" connection that resulted in about a half volt drop when I turned the headlights on. Doing the calculation, it came out to about 50 milliOhms of resistance, but 50 mOhms drops a half a volt at ten amps!! So... Clean and tight!! I can walk you through how I found that questionable connection if you want, but I doubt I would need to do that. Here's my washer with hidden corrosion underneath: I didn't want to put a steel washer back in there, so I made a new washer out of brass: \

I sold my restored 260Z about 3 years ago. It was a labor of love. But I still like front engine sports cars. A Z replacement entered my garage this month. Enjoy your Z's. Dave

Finally, another update. We last left off with my attempt to remove the Air Galley from the Exhaust Manifold. This is still very much a challenge and I am continuing to work on this. I did get one fitting out, but the others are very stubborn. I continue to soak them in PB Blaster almost everyday, but have not used the Electromagnetic heater for the last couple weeks. The fumes are pretty bad from the heating process so I have backed off on that, even while doing that outdoors. Will probably go back to the heating process in a week or so and see if I can make some progress. There really is no rush on this, so I will hit it at a more convenient time. The body work is moving along, slowly as always. Pictures below show the latest updates from the body shop. I am almost finished with the engine electrical harness and have finished the rear harness. The engine electrical harness had a couple of interesting items. First is a Fusible link that goes to the Alternator. I have not seen that before, but apparently it is a thing on the very early cars. Also, on the alternator charge/regulator cable, it look like there was some outside work done. There was a red wire connected to the main black ground wire. That's a little scary. I checked my Z charge cable wiring and noticed my wire was black, so I am guessing that whoever did the work didn't have the correct gauge black wire, so they used red instead. Anyway, I replaced the red wire with the correct color black wire just to get everything back to normal. Pics are below. On the rear harness there is a wire at the end of the harness near where the speaker and antenna control wires are. Haven't seen that before. Not sure what it would operate. See pic below. I got the shocks and springs installed on the struts. Also cleaned and lubed the front strut bearings prior to re-assembly. I re-furbed the rear brake cylinders and assembled those onto their respective backing plates. Also noticed the both emergency brake arms had an 'R' on them, odd. Cleaned up the drums also. I cleaned and installed the front discs and noticed slots/holes in the rim of the disc. First time I have seen that. Again, probably unique to the early cars. 20250404_153515.mp4

Hey, I just wanted to follow up in case anyone was wondering—turns out it was the ECU/computer after all. Swapped it out all those years ago, and everything has been running perfectly. Appreciate your advice to test instead of just guessing. Helped me narrow it down and get it fixed a lot quicker. Thanks for the help!

I have a early 1977 with the sloped rear deck. Mine was dated 9/76 and has some odd parts changes from that period on US spec cars. I'll share what I can and have many pics too. I learned a lot with this car.

Free -- you cover the cost of shipping and PayPal fee. Complete set of front and rear calipers for a 280ZX (S130). What you see is what you get...some mounting hardware, some (worn) pads, no rotors or soft lines. Year unknown, working condition unknown. Snagged these a couple years ago on FB Marketplace "just in case I might need them". Turns out I don't. Unless you have a preferred shipper that you can send me an account number/prepaid shipping label/etc; I will ship these flat rate USPS. I can fit everything into a single Large flat-rate box, but it's a heavy sucker. Safer approach might be two Medium flat-rate boxes. Thanks for looking.

Thanks for posting this. I am mid-stream in importing my 1977 280Z into Italy and will read this with great interest. There will be some mods I have to make to conform with EU road standards.