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This guy was using an undefined Honda Accord booster. We need to figure it out. It bolted right up!

@cgsheen1 I was going to post in another thread but didn't want to thread jack, I'm hopeful to make it to Zcon in your area next year and check out your cars

👍

Well, according to the info Zed Head posted above, the longer spring goes on the RH side.

Sigh...

The difference is modern bumpers are TPO (Thermoplastic Polyolefin) and a urethane bumper is different. I routinely plastic weld TPO bumpers for my cars I repair but Urethane bumpers can't be plastic welded. At least not in the traditional meaning. TPO is also stiff and takes paint better because it's more solid and less rubber like than urethane. Some TPO bumpers for 240z's would be very interesting

I’m working on getting my 240 back in road shape and I tried to change the transmission fluid yesterday but the fill plug seemed impossible to remove. I ordered a 17mm square socket to hopefully not round it off and doused it in penetrating oil multiple times. Any other tips and tricks? When is searched around I read that applying heat to the transmission body around the nut can help, is a propane torch sufficient? Also, any guesses on what is causing the oil leak on the rear of the transmission and what the black oil soaked wire running to the rear of the transmission is? Thank you.

With all the plastic on cars today, I would think a good body shop would know how to make it work. I had a plastic bumper on my wife's car repaired and painted about 7 years ago and haven't had any issues.

The painter who painted the loose panels for Lily uses Bulldog adhesion promoter. I will talk to the paint shop too. To try to check all the boxes

Yes you're correct. However, will a customer accept an exhaust manifold that will start to show corrosion almost the minute he leaves my shop after spending X amount of $ for a Y operation? Asking rhetorically as the answer is obvious. Everyone and I mean EVERYONE was very happy with the Jet-Hot cast look including, but not limited to, the Franklin Mint car.

I have always wondered why a vacuum pump on a booster would not do the exact same thing as manifold vacuum. It would not even need to be that big a pump as the master vac is relatively small. Only need to maintain about 45 mmhg.

Not a "snark" - just a sigh from a bona fide Turbo Swap and EFI Enthusiast... Always have been and never apologetic. And although I sigh, I never fault anyone else's decisions concerning their own vehicles. A comment is just a comment, everyone has their own opinion, and some have greater experience in a certain sphere than others.

Thank you Captain. So I didn't keep track of what side those springs came off of when I disassembled. My thinking is the longer of the two less than 5/8 of an inch I'll use 4 the passenger side rationalizing that the tilt of the engine in that direction may need more support. Comments?

So any color other then heat cycled metal isn’t technically correct.?

Zzzzzzzzzz…..

That's because it is

When I do the math on the free lengths from the manual, I get significantly different numbers. 373.5 / 25.4 = 14.7 386 / 25.4 = 15.2 So assuming the free lengths in the FSM are typos, the lengths you are measuring look great.

You might also consider using vinyl paint. I used it to re-colour my Z's interior (from black to butterscotch). Pix below should give you an idea of the flexibility and adhesion characteristics (I've seen zero evidence of paint lifting over the ten years since I originally did the application). It sprays on easily using an HVLP gun and doesn't require much in the way of surface prep. It took me three coats to achieve full coverage over the black soft and hard trim pieces. We had a supplier in the Toronto area (Parasol) who would custom mix colors from a customer-supplied paint chip (my results we spot-on, based on a small piece that I snipped from the hem of my new butterscotch seat covers). I expect you'll be able to find a comparable supplier somewhere in the U.S. south-east.

Not that weren’t expecting

Hopefully not too many surprises

I used this on my front air damage prior to paint. Can't remember who recommended it, but seems to work.

Dang, Those almost look like bare metal

The airdam is urethane. It can be tough to get paint to stick to it because it's so flexible.

A social media post caught my eye last week. Facebook Z forum. Some guy had put a Honda Accord electric booster on his Z. I have tried to get more information without success. This is interesting because it doesn’t depend on engine vacuum. With the proliferation of alternator swapping, the extra electrons wouldn’t seem to be a problem. What are your thoughts?