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Familiar with them, agree with both of your assessments of them

My VIN is HLS3016530. I will double check my memory. It has been a long time since I put eyes on that switch.

Interesting, my 12/70 car has the yellow switch. My S/N is HLS30-17486, I'm guessing your 12/70 car has an earlier S/N than mine.

Im still here.......and still selling them.

My 12/70 is black. And my 6/71 is orange/yellow. Still a wide range there.

Defroster switch... When did they change from the black unlit design to the yellow backlit version? Here's a hoovered pic of the unlit black: And here's the yellow backlit version: The wiring diagram I've been working on shows the simpler black unlit version. When did they change to the yellow backlighted version?

This pic is from a mid-1970 car. I believe it is original. (I have no reason to believe otherwise):

This pic is from a mid-1970 car. I believe it is original. (I have no reason to believe otherwise):

Her name was Elizabeth.

I remember sanford and son as the old guy always faking a hartattack and saying here i come "..." to his deceased wife! I don't remember her name but he did this often.. so funny series..

Which of these reproduction hazard decals is more accurate? (Note, both their font and corner shape are different.). jdm-car-parts rendition: Zeddsaver rendition: Thanks, Keith

After receiving a box of parts back from the vapor honer, I noticed that the two lower thermostat housings I had are different. One came from a 72, the other I am not sure. I believe the one on the left is part number 11061-P0300, which the microfiche indicates was used on 1973's. So I suspect the one on the right, having lighter-duty top and head flanges, is 11061-E3000 and is for 70-72. Can anyone confirm? What's on your original early 240Z's?

If it were mine, I would call Rich... @motorman7

Would be nice to have more details on your EFI upgrade. Maybe a separate thread...

I am thinking there are not many restoration shops that focus on Z's these days. Impatient Creations is doing good quality work. I think they are very expensive. But, they do good work. Looks like they are 30 minutes from Birmingham. https://impatientcreationsinc.com/

I suggest going on Bring a Trailer and look at some past auctions of top tier 240Zs. Many descriptions will call out the shop commissioned to do the restoration.

Thanks, that would be great! I'll wait to see if he replies. The fellow who is building Roadster electronic distributors might be interested in buying some or making some. Peace, Pat

Namerow, Were you successful with the braided hose? Keith

Looks like the advertisement area doesn't work anymore since Mike updated the software. @kickstand80 should be notified by your response but just in case, the @ function should do it. He hasn't been on the forum since March 19. Pretty sure I've seen him posting over on zcar though so he is still around. @Captain Obvious might have a spare from his testing if 80 doesn't have any. Good luck. Would have been neat to see one in action via some sort of video.

Does anyone know what month/year production these were originally installed on? Thanks, Keith

@dutchzcarguy those are funny! The Richard Pryor baby is my favorite but it's a little coarse for all members. Héy Site, that picture reminds me of those vid's about the farm from Jeremy Clarkson, diddly squat farm.. (on Youtube) where toddlers play the rolls of all the people in the series!

OK, I'm new here. Just signed up because I found this magnet listed in a google part number search. I don't see how to purchase one. I have a 1967.5 Datsun SPL311 (Roadster) with a converted 210/310 distributor that uses this same magnet. Mine has a split in it. I'm probably blind & it's quite obvious! Thanks in advance Peace, Pat

That was me who made that suggestion.

I want to send my '72 Z some place to get restored. I would want this restoration to be top tier, probably leaning toward a near concours quality restoration. I've been around cars for a long time, but they have been older Alfa Romeos. I'm familiar with every stage of a restoration. I have restored a few myself, I have bought a few restored and I have an original, untouched car. I understand there can be a huge difference in pricing depending on how restored you'd like the car. I understand getting a perfect car can be double the price of a weekend show restoration. I also know that shops can really vary in what they consider quality. We have some great shops around here that could make the car beautiful but I'd like to send it somewhere that specializes in Z's that would know what is right and what is not so right. Any suggestions because I have no clue. I posted this on another forum and they suggested to try here. I live in Birmingham, AL Thanks, Tad Bailey

I will check the insulator nut on both sides, will compress the springs to do it. The noise has developed over the past year. There is no clunking when shifting gears, it is the annoying noise going over small/large cracks on the roads. The roads here in WI are not as good as in CA. The factory diff mount was replaced with a brand new (then, 10+ years ago) Nissan diff mount. I just checked it - the rubber is solid, there is no play. I am ordering the poly bushing kit for the mustache bar. The diff whine will probably get droned out by my MSD-2225 fuel pump :-) anyway. I insulated the FP with some nice rubber padding, and it is still loud. Appreciate your guys' ideas! It is summer here, time to enjoy our toys. Last winter I upgraded my stock Bosch L-Jetronic to the microsquirt ECU with the inj/spark control, need to start driving the car to properly tune it.