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Her name was Elizabeth.

I remember sanford and son as the old guy always faking a hartattack and saying here i come "..." to his deceased wife! I don't remember her name but he did this often.. so funny series..

Which of these reproduction hazard decals is more accurate? (Note, both their font and corner shape are different.). jdm-car-parts rendition: Zeddsaver rendition: Thanks, Keith

After receiving a box of parts back from the vapor honer, I noticed that the two lower thermostat housings I had are different. One came from a 72, the other I am not sure. I believe the one on the left is part number 11061-P0300, which the microfiche indicates was used on 1973's. So I suspect the one on the right, having lighter-duty top and head flanges, is 11061-E3000 and is for 70-72. Can anyone confirm? What's on your original early 240Z's?

If it were mine, I would call Rich... @motorman7

Would be nice to have more details on your EFI upgrade. Maybe a separate thread...

I am thinking there are not many restoration shops that focus on Z's these days. Impatient Creations is doing good quality work. I think they are very expensive. But, they do good work. Looks like they are 30 minutes from Birmingham. https://impatientcreationsinc.com/

I suggest going on Bring a Trailer and look at some past auctions of top tier 240Zs. Many descriptions will call out the shop commissioned to do the restoration.

Thanks, that would be great! I'll wait to see if he replies. The fellow who is building Roadster electronic distributors might be interested in buying some or making some. Peace, Pat

Namerow, Were you successful with the braided hose? Keith

Looks like the advertisement area doesn't work anymore since Mike updated the software. @kickstand80 should be notified by your response but just in case, the @ function should do it. He hasn't been on the forum since March 19. Pretty sure I've seen him posting over on zcar though so he is still around. @Captain Obvious might have a spare from his testing if 80 doesn't have any. Good luck. Would have been neat to see one in action via some sort of video.

Does anyone know what month/year production these were originally installed on? Thanks, Keith

@dutchzcarguy those are funny! The Richard Pryor baby is my favorite but it's a little coarse for all members. Héy Site, that picture reminds me of those vid's about the farm from Jeremy Clarkson, diddly squat farm.. (on Youtube) where toddlers play the rolls of all the people in the series!

OK, I'm new here. Just signed up because I found this magnet listed in a google part number search. I don't see how to purchase one. I have a 1967.5 Datsun SPL311 (Roadster) with a converted 210/310 distributor that uses this same magnet. Mine has a split in it. I'm probably blind & it's quite obvious! Thanks in advance Peace, Pat

That was me who made that suggestion.

I want to send my '72 Z some place to get restored. I would want this restoration to be top tier, probably leaning toward a near concours quality restoration. I've been around cars for a long time, but they have been older Alfa Romeos. I'm familiar with every stage of a restoration. I have restored a few myself, I have bought a few restored and I have an original, untouched car. I understand there can be a huge difference in pricing depending on how restored you'd like the car. I understand getting a perfect car can be double the price of a weekend show restoration. I also know that shops can really vary in what they consider quality. We have some great shops around here that could make the car beautiful but I'd like to send it somewhere that specializes in Z's that would know what is right and what is not so right. Any suggestions because I have no clue. I posted this on another forum and they suggested to try here. I live in Birmingham, AL Thanks, Tad Bailey

I will check the insulator nut on both sides, will compress the springs to do it. The noise has developed over the past year. There is no clunking when shifting gears, it is the annoying noise going over small/large cracks on the roads. The roads here in WI are not as good as in CA. The factory diff mount was replaced with a brand new (then, 10+ years ago) Nissan diff mount. I just checked it - the rubber is solid, there is no play. I am ordering the poly bushing kit for the mustache bar. The diff whine will probably get droned out by my MSD-2225 fuel pump :-) anyway. I insulated the FP with some nice rubber padding, and it is still loud. Appreciate your guys' ideas! It is summer here, time to enjoy our toys. Last winter I upgraded my stock Bosch L-Jetronic to the microsquirt ECU with the inj/spark control, need to start driving the car to properly tune it.

A s30 is not like the s130 chassis/configuration.. and if there is already a bit of fuel IN the pump that also could make a big difference. It has to do with pumping air or fluids, it's bad in pumping air.. But i do believe that the s30 is much better to start after it had a empty tank.. i once had a empty tank (s30/240z) and only 8-10 ltr fuel made it run in seconds. Héy Site, that picture reminds me of those vid's about the farm from Jeremy Clarkson, diddly squat farm.. (on Youtube) where toddlers play the rolls of all the people in the series!

Did you replace the factory diff mount? When you use a bumper with the RT mount it essentially just replaces the strap. It reduces upward movement but the diff can also move downward if the stock mount is worn. Also, the bushings and bumpers on the ends of the mustache bar look worn. If you crawl under the car and grab the mustache bar end with your hand you'll be surprised at how easily it can be moved up and down. New bushings might help, although sometimes they can bring some diff whine in to the cabin. Z Car Depot IncMustache Bar Bushings Poly Differential 240Z 260Z 280ZMustache Bar Bushings Poly Rear Diff Mount S30 - 800-172 (). New Energy Suspension black polyurethane bushings for 1970-78 Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z mustache bar.

I doubt that hairline crack is the source of your problem, That crack probably doesn't go very deep. Hopefully it's just a surface feature. So, the first thing I would check are the nuts on the top of the strut insert (down in the recess in the top center of the strut insulators). If one of them has worked their way loose (or were never tight to begin with), you would get a noise like what you describe. And you can't just "check for play" with the strut assembly off the car. That spring will extend to take up any available play. There would only be play with a load on the strut that has partially compressed the strut insert. So was this noise always there, or is it something that has developed over time?

I have wheel and tires sets for 240z, 280z, 280zx, and 300zx cars. Some sets are OEM and a few aftermarket wheels. Most are in great condition. I set of early z cylone wheels not so hot Let me know what your looking for and I will let you know if I have it. Pick up only in Northeast NJ. Will be posting pics in the next few days. These have been in storage for 20+ years.

That wasn’t the case for me when I brought my 78 back to life. Ran it from 5 gallons or less. Primed right away.

So you used the original ignition switch hardware and just replaced the electrical piece that attaches to the harness?

Hi guys, I am chasing a rear clunk noise which happens when going over the road cracks and potholes. Pushing the rear of the car with hands in an up/down motion doesn't reproduce it. I replaced all the bushings in the rear 10 years ago. I probably put about 1000 miles on the car. First, I thought the noise was due to my read speaker deck, I removed it. Another thought was the deck lid, there is small play in the deck struts due to the loose bushing/pin attaching the struts to the mounting location. I jacked up the car, removed the strut assemblies and checked the rear strut insulators. They are solidly attached, no play. However, I saw a hairline crack on the LH side. I checked all the rear sway bar bolts, nuts, plus the R200 hardware, rear half-shafts bolts/nuts, fuel tank/pump, mustache bar hardware. 10 years ago I installed an aftermarket RT mount, there is a 1/8 in gap between the R200 and the RT poly bushing when the car is rested on the jack stands. What are your thoughts? I went through a lot of posts about the rear end clunking (hundreds of hits lol), and I think I checked all of them on my car with the exception of that hairline crack in the insulator. I am planning to order a pair of strut insulators to begin with (240z ones with an adapter, unless someone has a pair of later 280z ones in a good condition?). Thanks!