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The fuel lines to the nozzles are kind of stiff. They are a plastic material I bought from a hobby shop, made for model airplane fuel. I bought some su rebuild kits, came with new rubber tube's, did not install them. I made the assumption the fuel rails were the same from flat tops to round tops. I'm wondering if I should pinch off the line returning gas to the tank. The electric fuel pump doesn't get electricity until the engine runs, until the engine runs, residual fuel in the bowls is used to start the car, it works that way on my 72 240z. I believe I swapped out the entire intake manifold, not just the carbs. So the linkages were from a 240z, but we know what assume does. I th8nk the choke linkage may be stiff too.

@Captain Obvious do you know if the fuel rail for flat tops work with earlier carbs?

One more thing you should look at as a possible weak link. The hose that goes from the float chamber to the nozzle has to be soft. Off the shelf 3/16 fuel line doesn't work too good. Another thing on the no start is the linkage has to be just right between the carbs. Those flat stops can look right but be out of order.

There are still three fuel rails, one from the filter to the carb bowls. The second one sends excess fuel back to the tank. Nothing to and from the third hard line. I installed a push button switch so I can force the electric fuel pump on. The mechanical pump has been removed and bypassed. While setting float levels I would hold the button down for about 10 seconds while the bows fill, I could also hear gas trickle back into the tank. I have z therapy site glasses on the carbs and when I try to start the engine, the fuel levels in the bowls does not go down, or it doesn't look like it. Is it possible too much fuel is being sent back to the tank?

https://www.samuri.uk/the-register

It did strike me as odd that Humble had you snug in the spline and then put a continuous bead of adhesive over it only to pull the spline out later. I can attest that this pulls out most of the adhesive as well. But, who am I to argue with a guy who did it this way and wrote the book on restoring a Z car? Attached photo of Page 130 shows exactly what he said to do. This was for the windshield but he later on says to do the hatch glass the same way. Then, at the bottom of the first column of Page 131 he says to do exactly as you say; i.e., put the sealant under the raised lip of the window. In fact, as I read it, he's saying to do this on all three channels: glass, exterior and interior. This makes eminent sense and really makes me wonder how that first bit of nonsense made it through editing. Oh well, live and learn. Frankly, it's stuff like what I've just been through that makes it all the more important that users of this site comb through all the old threads and extract useful info that can be condensed and put into technical articles for any and all to utilize. I'm trying to do that during my build. Final photo is of my pet Senegal parrot, Koki, eating the marrow out of a chicken bone; a favorite activity. He just loves attention.

Apparently the seller wants ~$78,000. Had not heard of "Super Samuri" before. I assume the non-traditional spelling is intentional. Seems odd. Seems similar to the Scarab program in the States. Tip - if you highight the words in the sky they will change to text that is readable. https://www.samuri.uk/ https://www.samurimotorcompany.com/history-of-samuri-motor-company

I'm taking a year off from life. 99% of the bad ones are from pushing to fast to get back to work. Not me, I enjoy being at home.

Those knee replacements seem to be hit or miss. I've seen people with the good ones but also seen those with not-so-good. Hard to tell how to make sure you get a good one. If you're planning to get one do the research and try to increase your odds. Actually, that applies to any surgery in today's modern medical-industrial complex. Once you get on the conveyor belt it's hard to get off in good shape. Healing can take a while though. Those short-time "back to normal" piece-of-cake no-problems stories are rare.

Is the return restricted on the flat tops like it is on my '72? Easier saying, does the fuel rail for flat tops need changing to the one that is for 3 screw domes? Did you change the fuel rail? Maybe they are different.

Now that I have confidence in the float levels, I'm still having a problem getting the engine started. Next step is brand new fuel. A reminder, I removed the 260z flat tops and replaced them with 249z carbs. I read the thread about the nail in the carb, I need to takea step back to see what I missed. Hate to say, the car ran fine with the flat tops, I have to remember, if it's not broke, don't fix it. When I run the engine with a puff of ether, it caughs and sputters, not getting fuel, sounds too lean. I was hoping the bowl level would have fixed it. Somebody had messed with the carbs before I got them. Ideas?

As discussed elsewhere: https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/super-samuri-collecting-cars-gaw-105m.32250/

Super Will Know! Amazing how these "professionals" can put something out on the WORLD WIDE WEB with such a simple spelling error. Bizzare. Uploading Attachment...

Pretty nice 72 with a ~100,000 mile rebuild engine. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-377/

It would be fascinating to know the how Skinner-Union (way back in the middle of the last century) came up with the bendable-tang-with-a-curved-ramp solution for closing the float chamber outlet valve. Maybe they adopted it from the shut-off scheme used in somebody's toilet tank? 😄 It would all be so much easier if there was an adjustment screw. An external screw would be nice, but even an internal screw would be an improvement. I've often wished that someone would do a plot of the geometric relationship of gas level vs needle valve displacement, so that the effects of bending the tang at its fulcrum could be properly understood. One might also take a look at the effects of changing the tang's radius of curvature. Any volunteers?

I would not use any adhesive on the hatch glass seal. If it needs sealing later you can lift the edge of the seal and add a thin bead there

Hi @Parman , I totally understand your pain with the 3M adhesive and its black tar it leaves behind. My hatch top weatherstripping piece got detached. I used the 3M and Permatex - same results, it won't stay in place. I looked up the Amazing Goop one, and do like that it is clear when dries up. Did you use the Automotive version or the Trim one? Thanks! Den

I ones had a neighbor and she had 2! and was up the next day, walking!! this was 15 years ago! 👌

How do i understand this? your recovering of the OP and in a few weeks your up and walking or do you already walk with it? Is it made of stainless with a nylon cup or is it some other metall? I hope it don't rust! 😄

So what was "Hmmmm" (five letters, since we are stickling...) intended to mean? I'm looking at it in the context of your previous comments, such as: In amongst all the negative comments about S30.World and their work on this thread, from where I'm sitting it looks like you're trying to hint at something without actually saying it. You want to have your cake and eat it, don't you? Always 'more on this later', but never actually committing to any tangible opinion. You tell us that you've had a working relationship with the owner of the company in question for "many years", and yet I've not seen you make a single post or comment in their support while all and sundry were posting uninformed nonsense about them here and dissing their work. Hmmmm indeed. I think I've got your number. On the other hand, you might well want to be careful about associating yourself with S30.World on here. After all, our friend SpeedRoo might call you a "so-called expert" and Zed Head will be asking you if payola is involved.

Check MSA. This morning they had the aftermarket ones on clearance.

I'm curious as to what the culprit is. Was it the distributor, ignition module? Was it even an electrical problem? I had a problem once with my 72 240z that would stall when going down the freeway. I would start it, it would run again. I ended up putting a Tee fitting in the fuel line from the fuel pump and ran a pressure gage inside the car through the window. Turned out when the engine would quit, there was no fuel pressure. The steel fuel line from the engine to the tank had rust in it. I actually got it cleared by running a wire through the fuel line. So, what happened? Jim

1974 Datsun 240-Z Super Samuri Iconic Auctioneers - 1974 Datsun 240Z Super Samuri-For SaleThe first generation Nissan/Datsun 'Z' cars, launched with the 240Z in 1969, were designed to compete directly with European sports cars. Styled with influence from Count Albrecht Goertz, they combine

Little more time out in the garage. Checked the coil and near as I can tell, it is ok. Also checked fuses in the panel and those seem ok. I did find a couple things that weren't plugged in, not sure what they are. The more I dig into it, it really looks like this is not the original wiring harness and/or engine. The firewall boot is still sorta there, but there is definitely no membrane in the middle. I didn't look close enough to see if it just dry rotted out. but it does look like someone ran a harness through it. I'm not sure where to move to next. Is there a way to test ignition module? I found this post that has a lot of good info in it. Im going to give some of this a try.

I finally got the fuel level with the jet while turned 10 turns down, I then returned to what people recommend as a starting point, 2.5 turns from the top. With the choke on, will only run on starting fluid. The only thing I haven't tried is fresh fuel, Ive been using fuel I keep for my lawn mower, haven't tried new gas. Ideas? Jim