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cool stuff, was thinking of adding a blue tooth device to my sony stereo. Might check into that. I love the switch, I have driving lights on the front, and the switch is by the rear defrost switch, since the bezel has the light indicator there. Was thinking of an indicator light to go in above the hazard switch..........

The car was so powerful because it didn’t have just normal horsepower…

Ondagrass…

100% agree with Jim. I did install a relay and used LED bulbs for the fog lights.

Hahaha!! I'm hoping it won't come to that! ☺️

I thought I had pics of both flasher units (turn signal and hazards), but I can't find them. Memory says there are markings on the outsides of the cans that indicate how many filaments each one is designed for.

I wasn't there when they designed it, but my assumption would be the difference in the load that the two flasher units see. The turn signals are flashing four filaments (three in the rear and one in the front). While the flashers are seeing twice that (six in the rear and two in the front). The "off time" portion of the flasher unit is predominantly controlled by the load attached to the flasher unit. If that load is too small (like using LEDs), the off-time will be.... forever. If that load is too large, the off-time will be too short and the on-time will also longer than intended. The point is... The flasher needs to be matched accordingly to the load it is being used to control.

thanks for the feedback, Any suggestions in getting to the back of the switch and removing it? It seems like taking the tach out would get you close? Anyone have a good short tail hazard switch around?

Could be a body shop guy but he looks like a long time owner, he'ssmiling. The no color photos added to his mention of patina would be an added PITA in my opinion for selling. Everyone is going to ask for better pics.

The way my insurance policy is with Hagerty's if it catches on fire I'm breaking out the weenies and marshmallows and enjoy the bonfire. But my luck some dumbass would stop and put it out before a total loss.

If you're logged in is it easy to make the pictures bigger? I can only see the small ones unless I open them in a new tab. Facebook is clunky. Looks like a dash cap. Another seller that doesn't know what they're looking at?

Ditto.

And if you decide to pursue auxillary lighting, here is the factory wiring Easter Egg just waiting for that switch in the dash. Remember, if you go this route you will want to install relays and larger gauge wiring to actually power the lights.

Switch for fog lights

From the pics that’s in really nice shape if the rest of the car looks like that.

I was just preemptively trying to avoid a digression. It felt like we were making some progress in the discussion. I'm still curious about the test results that Carl Beck got. Could a supplier have replated cadmium plated hardware? We now know what Nissan specified but is it possible that there is actually cadmium-containing hardware out there? Doesn't look like they said avoid cadmium, they just specified a different finish. I assume that Nissan outsourced that type of work, that they didn't have a plating operation of their own.

I left mine blank, but I don't have driving lights. I did repurpose the slot for the manual throttle next to the choke for the antenna switch when I swapped out the stock radio back in '91 for a Sony cassette player that I've now replaced in 2017 with a RetroSound Bluetooth radio. Our son 3D printed the faceplate for the radio with the raised lettering and the surround of the radio face that I painted white so it has a more stock look.

240Z E31 Cylinder Head Complete. $400.00 Also available late N47 from 280zx Complete.

@WJ4Fun When I did the LED conversion on all my lights I used the same flasher for both blinker and hazard lights and both work just fine. No idea why Nissan would have different part #'s for the flashers.

Rust free doors and hatch. Coupe. Black panels. All complete. No keys. $1200.00 Local pickup. These pieces are heavy.

I wasn't taking sides on the cadmium versus zinc issue. I have no knowledge or expertise to bring to bear on that topic. 26th-Z said "but how does this all matter", which is what HS-30H was referring to with the Brute quote. I think one of the hallmarks of this group is believing that details matter. My comment was meant to commend that behaviour. And Zed, you're definitely one of the people who cares about detail in my view. I don't always enjoy the exchanges themselves, but I think we all benefit from the willingness to engage, and the level of knowledge that results. Sorry that I wasn't clear.

Here's a '76 for $50K. I've never seen black and white photos in a For Sale add before. https://www.facebook.com/share/1BGfX7jc26/

The hazard light switch is in that circuit, it could be confusing the issue.

Thanks guys, I will measure the old/cracked fan vs the new replacement one. I am actually facing a different issue on top of the cracked fan blades. After I removed/reinstalled the tranny and installed a new TC, I started hearing some hitting noises coming from the front of the car. I think my fan got too close to my HALL sensor mount and would occasionally hit it (especially when warmed up). I fab'ed 2 shims to move the clutch/fan assembly forward by 3 mm: And here is how close the fan is to my HALL sensor mount:

I found on my car, vin is about 14,000 early car, the car had a hazard switch with the short harness. The longer harness one I had messed everything up. I don't believe they are interchangeable