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Mostly taking inventory. The car had a superficial layer of mold inside so the interior is being stripped. Enzymatic treatment of every surface and likely more. Over the years, he acquired a parts car worth of stuff that had replacements for most things including new Nissan window rubber, firewall rubber, and clutch kit. There is not a early center console in the mix (sadly) and the velour insert seat covers have got to go. No dome light either (yet). That thing is expensive. I have only gone through 40% of the stuff so far.

LOL. I think the Nissan electronic parts catalog has an error. Maybe give it a month and see if it corrects. The dealer pricing changes typically once per month. I paid $61 for mine just a few years ago from this place which currently has it for over $1500. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-sender-f-gauge~25060-e4100.html

Butch!

Love the 510…

yep that's the Aisin one - that didn't help me, only the one I linked to on Amazon brought my temp gauge to normal

Hi Namerow. Its a long story on how this came about but I was able to find a clearer .tif file of the print ( attached) ZedHead provided. In it I found the measuring points. Using a plumbob, I was able to duplicate the measurement of the factory drawing. after measuring, adjusting and repeating it multiple times, I have welded in the passenger side and have the drivers mocked up and will welded it tomorrow. The hole is noted to be 34 degrees from the frame rail and that is what I have. The frame rails I am using came from Zedd savers many years ago. I recently started back on the project. They are still available from several suppliers. I suspect folks measure off the old rusty one when these are replaced, unfortunately they were not included with the project and I didn't have any reference. I see that a few suppliers offer the complete frame rail which is probably way to go. I will add some pics in the next few days. Thanks for the info. 240Z Chassis Dimensions - Source 1970 FSM Dated 15AUG70.tif

Legitimate question. Unfortunately, I'm not aware of any convenient answer. With 15+ years on this site, I don't recall anyone ever having addressed this question in the past. Nissan engineers quite rightly decided that the positioning of the T/C rod bracket mattered only in terms of the location (X-Y coordinates) of the centrepoint of the hole where the T/C strut passes through the bracket. They were concerned only in terms of pulling a frame straight after a collision. The possibility that the T/C bracket might, by some circumstance (like yours), become detached from the frame rail was irrelevant. To get the answer you're looking for, you'll need to do some measurements of the bracket, focused on your own approximation (or calculation) of where the aforementioned strut/bracket intersection centrepoint lies relative to the front or rear end of the bracket. After that, you can reference it back to where, say, the flange of the frame rail where it joins with the firewall. Geometrically speaking, it's a tricky-but-not-impossible challenge (depends on where you gave up on math when you were in high school). Maybe someone here will have the enthusiasm to do it for you! 😎 In terms of how your Z wilI brake and corner, I suspect that the accuracy of the fore-aft positioning of the bracket relative to the firewall needs to be no better than plus/minus 1/16".

The symptoms are it was over heating. You never went back and reversed the fan blade and polarity to push air through the radiator.

Yikes. $31,250. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-191/

The ring where the wire mounts should not be grounded all of the time. When you press the horn button, the ring makes contact with the steering column that is grounded. What is wrong with your horn is that wire is mounted to one of the 3 screws that holds the ring to the steering column. The mounting screws have insulators to isolate the ring from the steering column. The wire should be connected at the empty hole, and there should be an insulating washer at the screw where the horn wire is currently mounted.

Good evening, I am Piet Keijzers and I live in the Netherlands. I recently bought a 240 Z and am having problems with the mounting of the horn. Here are 2 photos: a photo of how it is mounted on my car and a photo from the internet of how it should be. I don't understand the latter because the small black wire, which carries voltage, then makes continuous contact with the ground, causing the horn to beep continuously. I will upload some photos of my 240 Z later. Regards, Piet from the Netherlands.

Thanks Zed Head. I had seen this but I cant seem to see anything that would help locate them. Hoping someone here could measure there car and post what they show.

Already checked in Japan. I posted earlier

For sure I’d like to have an original OEM sending unit. I don’t think paying $1000-$1400 for a unit makes any sense. My brand new fancy European fuel tank was less than $1000. If anybody has the part number, please share that it’s worth asking Nissan if they can get it and how much💰 My trusty Winter vehicle will be 24 years old Palm Sunday.

Do the illustrations in the Body chapter have any value? 1972 -

Replaced my frame rails and am looking for info on where the tension compression bucket locates on the new rocker. Can anyone provide measurements in the image for me?

Seems like sound logical advice. Thank you.

If someone has the part number, you can get original at NISSAN. Don't fall for the cheap chinese copy few weeks and it stops working If you think about it.... we should be lucky to have so much spare parts for these cars so CHEAP!!! Think of people with those stupid headlights of today!! 1000$ is nothing for a new one.. (I sold my 240z and could buy a nice car, i didn't ... bought a car for the winter period of 15 years old.. nice small car no problems and simple headlights!)

Five and dime…

I have learned to anticipate repairing or correcting aftermarket parts before I install them. Some repairs are simple like chasing threads, other more complex like disassembling, cleaning, and reassembling. The fuel level function can be tested before installation, no need to soak it in gasoline. I would guess that it might even be possible to swap parts from an aftermarket assembly over to an OEM sender to get it to function correctly. For the money involved, it might be worth the time. Buy a cheap aftermarket assembly for the parts.

On Mar 24, 2026, at 6:28 AM, Zcardepot.com <sales@zcardepot.com> wrote:  Only ones we can get are the aftermarket ones which are hit or miss. If you want the best quality unit, you'll need to hunt around for an OEM one (be prepared to pay well over $1000).

I also checked on Amamaya Japanese sight and they are 1,015.00. The word is out there.

For sale is one L-28 long block. This is the desirable N42/N42 block and head combination. About 10 years ago, when I needed to build a new engine for my "track day" car, I located and purchased three of these N42/N42 engine and block combinations. The first block we sonic tested accommodated my requirement of an 89 mm bore size, so I didn't need to use either of the remaining two spare engines. These remaining two were removed about 10 years ago from cars which were in the same salvage yard in VA and have been stored inside my garage since. Both engines rotate by hand. I now need to free up some space in my garage, so I am interested in selling one of these off. Long block option #1: Price: $750 plus shipping to your location or you can pick it up in Marietta, GA. Pics of option #1: As you can see, option number one is pretty clean with no corrosion on the cam/valve train and has a clutch pp, disc, and flywheel. Long block option #2: Price: $500 plus shipping to your location or you can pick it up in Marietta, GA. Pics of #2: As you can see, option #2 shows some wear on the cam lobes which also have rusted. Questions? Need more info? Want hi res pictures? Just ask. Thanks! Garrett

Welcome to the Zcar world. These are probably the last of the stock they had.

Thanks Mark, my plan is to remove the original sending unit from the tank inspect clean test and install in the new tank. Crazy to think, Nissan can justify such an astronomical price a simple OEM sending unit.