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Older thread, I know. But I'm on the hunt for a proper pre-filter, having just learned that the G3 is too restrictive. I just got finished restoring my fuel tank and coating it with Red-Kote. My preference would be all of these in decreasing order of priority: 100 micron filtering. 3/8" barb fittings, or threaded so I can provide my own. Clear body, so I can see if Red-Kote failed, rust, etc. Not glass, for obvious reasons. Inexpensive compared to those racing filters that cost hundreds of dollars. I haven't found anything that matches all of these. Being clear and not glass seems to be the unobtainable feature. But there are options that aren't clear, and meet all the others. I'm currently running no filter,, and really need to install something ASAP. Looking at going with one of these inexpensive aluminum-bodied filters: https://www.amazon.com/EVIL-ENERGY-Universal-Aluminum-Gasoline/dp/B0DN6SH631/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1KOAAR2TYSE5R&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.p_O7PvRTWOlBskuqunz5j1hb3qgTtqxuxTRwI_k3iJGFft3lAuJQ9dBkfGtH6RUnk8BnmLd6jbNIeSbCMHq6yOLpudvAuIvg28_HnsEirBDW5yuzLC0UXo-IywBRhaLhc7VhdL3reL-MrorDb1I7DBNGdvzQ8GLF33hzosp18jWgf6W3FXldklMcZ7D6IhpkSnMS_k53IFnXQ98ROHfPRKCSNrxPCddjjdLxr1OzYBs.alzow_qg4vB6MChEDLoyk3aaTUBwCPw2cXBaKVCu2rQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=100%2Bmicron%2Bfuel%2Bfilter%2B3%2F8%2Bclear&qid=1751743955&sprefix=100%2Bmicron%2Bfuel%2Bfilter%2B3%2F8%2Bclear%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-3&th=1 Has anyone tried one of these, or something better? Again, not being clear means I'll have to open it and check the element periodically. But I don't see a better option.

I have a slight leak at where the speedometer cable connects to the transmission. I ordered some seals but I'm unable to remove the pinion to install them. I removed the metal tab that holds it in place and can twist it with a lot of effort with a pair of channel locks (without damaging the threads) but only in one direction and it does not move out. I looked at this video but it wasn't too helpful: Can anyone offer a suggestion? Maybe thread something onto the threads and use a slide hammer or something to tap it out?

I'm a member of about 20 different forums. This one has more ads, BY FAR, than all of the others.

Hey guys Im having my Z completely restored and while at the body shop we go into a rather interesting discussion about the brake boosters. I am updating the cam on my Z to a mile regrind (.450 lift 222°) and my body shop guy brought up a concern. He owns a bunch (read: dozens) of old Mopars that he's updated the cams in and in most of them updating the cam leads to the brake booster being very ineffective due to the reduced vacuum. (example: In his Roadrunner, the brakes will work just fine...the first time, but if you press and let go and press again not so much). So question, for those who have updated their cams, did you have any issues with the brake booster afterwards? Thank Jan

Here we go again! Someone who should know better claims that the Z Store program car currently offered for sale on BAT was undercoated from the factory, it WASN"T!! How do I know this? I PERSONALLY, not from an article I read in a car mag, not from something a collector with 50 Z cars in her collection wrote somewhere, not from what a general manager @ a contemporary Nissan dealer told someone, undercoated lots and lots of 240Zs, 510s, 1200s and trucks while working as a Datsun mechanic in the 70s. We were paid 3/10ths of an hour labor for each car we undercoated. NONE of the models indicated had factory undercoating. Now, we occasionally see the rare Z offered for sale that were not dealer , or otherwise, undercoated. The factory paint applied to the bottom was often uneven, but not always , thin, thick, or just plain sloppy. Therefore, some internet experts will claim that it was a Datsun factory type of unique undercoating. OK, while you're certainly entitled to your opinion that doesn't make you correct. Here's one that, I'm confident, will shake the bushes. None of the Datsun models mentioned above came with grease fittings from the factory. That's right, NO GREASE FITTINGS. During the Per Delivery Inspection, PDI, or @ the 1K service we installed them, or were paid another 3/10ths to do so. Unfortunately in many, many, cases this meant that the tie rod ends and ball joints were grossly over greased . I don't know why but I saved a handful of the removed blind plugs and installed them on the 240s that Banzai Motorworks sent along to Gold Medallion awards in the stock 240 class. Did the judges notice? Don't know, probably didn't, but I knew that I'd done the right thing. (No charge) I hope everyone had a safe and fun 4th holiday. Cheers

Discussions about what starter is better than others and how rebuilt starter's quality can be hit or miss have popped up from time to time. The starter on my 79 zx was getting slower and without even checking it with my multimeter I knew it was time to install a new one. I opted for the WAI new starter from Rock Auto. ($150.00 ) It arrived well packaged, including bench test results and really looked like a quality made part. I installed it yesterday and I'm really happy with it. It sounds great and really spins the engine over much faster that my old one did in years. I hope it will last!

If only the left side is blinking with the hazard switch, that means you have another problem as both sides should be blinking with that switch.

I’ll check tomorrow, thanks

This is all great stuff. Thanks. I'll dig into it this weekend. The Hazard light circuit is a high contender since it is the only one to bypass the ignition power circuit. The second thing that points to this is that I took the turn/combination switch/stalk out, unplugged it, and it was still going.

Do you have power to anything when the key is in ACC or ON? Have you checked for voltage at the black/yellow wire for the starter solenoid when someone is holding the key in START? Start there and tell us what you find.

@Mike

Has anybody worked on the wiring to "fix" a problem? Those "fixes" frequently involve finding some wire with voltage and tapping into that. The turn signals are powered through the ignition relay. If the key is not in ON, the ignition relay won't complete the circuit for the turn signals, As @Zed Head suggested, the next thing to look at would be the hazard lights. Normally if you pull the hazard switch that would kill the power to the turn signals. If the blinker is still going with the hazard switch disconnected, that would indicate some creative wiring has been done to the car. You can also pull the turn signal fuse to see if that kills the problem. If not, pull the hazard light fuse. The turn signal fuse is in blue, and the hazard light fuse is in red below. If neither fuse fixes the problem, that still points to creative wiring. More questions: How long have you owned the car? Have you experienced any other electrical glitches? Look under the dash on both sides and around the kick panels. Do any wires look like they have been spliced, cut, or otherwise altered? If so, look for wire colors (with stripes). Do you see any electrical tape that looks newer than the wiring harness?

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So I took my dash partially out of my 73 240z to replace my heater hoses. I’ve since replaced the hoses and put the dash back. Now my car won’t crank. When I turn the key, the fuel pump runs and the relay on the passenger side floor clicks as normal but no crank. Any ideas?

On second thought it might be the Hazard switch. Lots of mysteriousness in there. It has power when the key is off. @SteveJ seems to feel comfortable with it. "even when car is off"

Pretty easy to remove. Something I learned - the ring around the ignition switch will pop out about 1/8" to allow you to remove the plastic shield around the column without breaking the corners off. Appears to be designed for that purpose.

It's probably the mechanism in the combination switch. Not likely to be the flasher. There is no separate turn signal relay.

1978 Z. Started the car, all of a sudden my left blinker went on. Couldn't control it from the stalk. Staid on when the car is shut off. Disconnected the stalk from the wiring harness. The blinker stayed on. I finally stopped it by pulling the blinker relay. Thoughts? My first thought is to replace the relay. Thanks

There are two seven different versions. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blade_Runner

A 71 is up on BaT. Oddly, it ended up in Florida with an Illinois title, after having "spent time in Texas, Arkansas, and Oklahoma before it was acquired by the seller", Bring a Trailer1971 Datsun 240ZBid for the chance to own a 1971 Datsun 240Z at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #200,055.

Or a '77 Turbo Carrera (930) is also a beautiful car.

As part of the 4th of July celebrations I am offering a sensible discount to any of the reproductions I make- make a sensible offer A link to my ebay store https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/katodfa

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/7B1C3893-E7E1-4082-978E-03E86971037F-1024x1024.jpg From all of us at Z Car Garage we hope you have a wonderful 4th of July weekend! Long Live The Z Shown above in Red, White and Blue are our clients: CJ’s 1971 Datsun 240Z Mike’s 1970 Datsun 240Z Rob J’s 1971 Datsun 240Z http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/bee20d36-c3b0-4195-88bf-ab197222412e-1-914x1024.jpg View the full article

Wow…..What a shame…..a real nightmare to a company trying to “get its legs”.