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Seppi I have done this project. I will post some pictures tomorrow. I followed a theard by Dave Irwin (zsonthebrain)? My car is a "72" I removed the doors to drill the holes. If you can find his thread he shows where to drill. Dave provided me with the rubber boots. Steve

Whether it was the best approach or not , I decided to slug/sleeve the A pillars . I felt a sizable sleeve -3” would give plenty of weld points and help keep things aligned . I had kept lots of A pillars material from where I cut these roofs up . The complex part is that the pillars taper ever so slightly . Also tough is making square cuts to match one roof to the other roof pillars . Another obstacle was I realized the drivers A pillar on my replacement roof was bent back -likely from the accident the car was in . It was a hard hit- shoving the LS2 back into the firewall . Windshield was still in the car he said . Getting the height right on the A pillars was going to be the big challenge . In the first pic of this thread you’ll see I built a support out of angle iron for the roof to sit on . I used my Z to measure from the seat bolt hole to roof line . This support also helped to have something to set the roof on while I made adjustments. Thank god these roofs are light.

Well, I'm going to buy one if only to determine if it could work in an S30. The bigger issue to me is where do I drill a 3/4" hole in the chassis? There are already smaller diameter holes on both sides for the dome light door switches and there's not much room in the same body recess (for the top door hinge) to drill below those. Placing the wiring boots above the door switches would run the risk of them being smashed by the top door hinge. If they're to be placed in the lower recess for the bottom door hinge I'm probably going to have to drill through two vertical panels. Details are always a PITA.

Knowing the right search terms is the real trick. I did a first search and turned up the correct description and then searched with that. Some of those pieces look like plastic. Some look like rubber. I would prefer rubber if I could get it

Looks like it could be a good basis if it's not rusty. At that discount it might be a scam though

Stumbled upon this one while browsing Craigslist today. https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/d/tacoma-very-rare-1980-datsun-280zx-10th/7882710391.html

Thanks, Patcon. I searched Amazon and eBay but apparently was not using the correct terminology to turn up what you have found.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Power+Window+Door+Jamb+Wiring+Boots+Accordion+Style&crid=1SAUDNSLHJ5M7&sprefix=power+window+door+jamb+wiring+boots+accordion+style%2Caps%2C112&ref=nb_sb_noss https://www.amazon.com/SSN-Compatible-Street-Truck-Black/dp/B0CR68XQ6L/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2G81U9YU0FNI5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.8fpATH9944czeb9MYItu1Le0STj2Skzrehs8O3ylkQlZWG_8mc2ITQMmIb3fVHnHydfL7yFYnJmvy08Eco2PZXf669mG9374bVw_ofqceG9s3ZxYqdQxoZ-UCOcU4h8C4V9_u25Lu67HEwluoO79kBFg37vMRXXb56L57UyorLEvzo9JwnDlrzKbUIQeGv2leVvJ_gruMz0fNGYBk_-vWQeiHE8fkAWWU2wv2hZOZ-M.n15BblK1JXL0OfrkJ43UCjifE9qWW9-FI0qXMdVCFDw&dib_tag=se&keywords=wire%2Bloom%2Bfor%2Bautomotive%2Bdoors&qid=1758401923&sprefix=wire%2Bloom%2Bfor%2Bautomotive%2Bdoors%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-3&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Power-Window-Wiring-Boots-Accordion/dp/B0BN1QMKMZ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2G81U9YU0FNI5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.8fpATH9944czeb9MYItu1Le0STj2Skzrehs8O3ylkQlZWG_8mc2ITQMmIb3fVHnHydfL7yFYnJmvy08Eco2PZXf669mG9374bVw_ofqceG9s3ZxYqdQxoZ-UCOcU4h8C4V9_u25Lu67HEwluoO79kBFg37vMRXXb56L57UyorLEvzo9JwnDlrzKbUIQeGv2leVvJ_gruMz0fNGYBk_-vWQeiHE8fkAWWU2wv2hZOZ-M.n15BblK1JXL0OfrkJ43UCjifE9qWW9-FI0qXMdVCFDw&dib_tag=se&keywords=wire+loom+for+automotive+doors&qid=1758401923&sprefix=wire+loom+for+automotive+doors%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-5

Well just to let you know mechanic managed to make the 240z tachometer work with the MSD Blaster 2 coil which i believe is 0.7 ohms and pertronix 1711 ingitor module. I hope it doesnt burn the 1711 ignitor.

I'm putting power windows (one supplier option is JDMSPEED on Amazon) and may some day also add power door locks. Either way, I need to run wires into the doors. To do that, I want to make sure they are protected from getting crimped or severed during open/close operations. On my "modern" cars, each one has bespoke (don't you just love English?) rubber tubes protecting exactly these kinds of wires. So, my question to those of you who have also run window, locks or speaker wires into your S30 doors is, what protection did you provide those wires? I'm hoping the answers will be off-the-shelf items obtainable from a local dealership as I doubt the local AutoZone carries such things, but you please tell me. And, of course, any photos of your installations will be most appreciated.

Here's a very familiar picture, I'm pretty sure Zkars put up for us, that shows where the fluid should be. The top of the rectangle.

That's exactly what I did. Perfect!

That little adapter hose with the banjo is great for later round tops with the drain fitting. Same for the float-sync device. If you have earlier carbs without the drain, a little piece of tubing on the bottom of the bowl works. Down side is you can only use it static with the engine off.

That's too funny!

For $8.00 to buy this simple device, who cares that the Float-Sync is no longer available eh?

As long as we’ve brought up our daily drivers, every time I go to the Toyota dealership they were telling how much mine was worth and how I should trade it! I double crossed them and sold it to a private party for $36K and bought this! Holy Schmidt it’s fast for an SUV. Porsche Macan GTS. That’s one of the other three Porsches sticking its tail out of the garage behind it…

Haha!! No, but I learned a new trick... I can hot spot my phone. So I bought a tablet thing device* that can do navigation so now I can GPS on the tablet THROUGH the flip phone. That's also how I was able to take a pic of me drinking beer on the patio at the hotel at Zcon. Hot spot the phone, tablet to the web, and show off my favorite shirt while guzzling beer: *It's a phased out Lenovo thing. Cost $40 closeout. Best forty bucks I've spent in a long time.

Put the tube on and crank the motor over.

Fortunately the frame rails -front and back- and inner and outer rockers are completely solid . When I built the rotisserie I added extra support up front by attaching to the sway bar points . Cutting the roof has advantages as far as storage . Makes for a thin profile on its side . It was hard to find a roof that someone was willing to part with or wasn’t already rusted . Being in the Midwest didn’t help . Finally made a connection with a guy in CA and his 70 had gotten totaled in a front end wreck . It was a PITA but we managed the logistics and he was willing to help ship it out . And it was the right color - lol .

Hahahahahahaha!!!!! ☺️ That's awesome!

Yeah these are out of production for some time now.

I see now, any add on couldn't continue the water past the end of the hatch. Keeping mine waxed and dried asap is the better solution.

A young friend of mine like me back in the 80s cut the roof out of "hand me down from daddy" '75. It started folding up when he drove it. Had some angle iron welded on the bottom to firm it up. Got stuck on a speed bump at the local cruising mall. I'll never forget that, funny to me but he wasn't laughing.😬 Beautiful Z that was the fastest car I'd ever driven. Kind of a copper brown exterior with light brown interior. Then I drove another friends dad's Regal turbo. Holly guacamole! Life changing car.

Yup, and those pillars are a bit more complex than they look from the outside. I've cut apart a few Z's and the lower center section isn't as strong as one would hope - I'm sure you're careful in it's support with the roof skeleton removed. I'll be interested in how you reconnect the center sheet metal in the pillars. There are an awful lot of people who painted over that Yellow...

Oh wow, that's an interesting way to do it. I always used the air tool to synchronize the carbs. But this gives an extra visualization into the fuel used as well.