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My 1972 240z is rarely used as it is not in perfect driving conditions. It misfires when temperature rises at idle during traffic jams. However, i need to change the engine oil. Should i purchase for 5 liters of 10w30? Or is there something better for this engine?

Website says they'll be closing down the business at the end of 2025 (they've been in operation since the mid-1980's, so that's a pretty good run). They appear to be re-sellers, rather than manufacturers (I suggest this b/c they're offering an extensive catalogue of parts across dozens of badge plates and vintages). I wonder where they've been sourcing that Z hatch seal. Japan, maybe?

Yes, I am a keeper! I had to come out to try to block an open shot. Two of the other team's players briefly competed for who was going to take the shot, and I guess one of them went straight through me. I say guess, because I am unsure what happened, but I did get the save :) For me, each wrist has now been broken - this is the second time for my radius bone in the left arm. The first time, I got a cross shaped break in it when the ball shot from 10 feet away hit nothing but my left and hammered it toward the bottom of my forearm. Both pinkie fingers, one middle finger, and a few front, as well as one back rib. I have torqued both sets of shoulder ligaments several times, but they are quite good now. I got nine stitches (one internal, 8 external) at the left eyebrow about 8 months ago. That is pretty much it. Many years were injury free, but not so much in this last 8 months. I didn't think I would still be playing competitively at 56, but I still really enjoy it. I think I am nearly ready to stop playing in Over 30 now however. The stitches and these most recent bone breaks came from playing in that league.

Are you a keeper? All of my injuries were ankle, knee, nose, eyebrow, or jaw. And one AC joint. And a groin.

I have it and will check the ID (it is no longer installed) and compare it to the spare new one I still have on hand. I won't be out in the shop much until my wrist heals some. The end of my radius bone is broken (at the wrist) and my pinky is broken too. Was definitely unfortunate in the game on Friday!

This one is available in Australia; I havent seen it in person. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/burwood/engine-engine-parts-transmission/240z-260z-2-seater-oem-replica-complete-standard-exhaust-system-datsun/1305228725

I don't think you are supposed to put them on a car. I think they are intended to be wall art. 😂

I was going to try it out first, but I just finished installing it and the seal fit like a glove. I think I read on their website that they may be going out of business soon. It's part# 864.131

From who? Are you keeping it secret? Link would be nice or just a name.

Can you only imagine how jacked up that would be trying to align the drive train.

Or you could go this way and order a complete repo body assembly. Lol www.alibaba.comAftermarket 1970-1974-1978 Ni-ssan Datsun 240z 260z 280z...Aftermarket 1970-1974-1978 Ni-ssan Datsun 240z 260z 280z Car Body Shell Cab Car Body Parts,Datsun 240z Car Body Shell - Buy Nissan 240z Car Body Shell nissan 240z Shell nissan 240z Body nissan 240z...

That's why I finally threw in the towel and reskinned my doors. There was soooo much wrong with his doors that it got to the point where I just couldn't go forward. They became a time vampire.

I'd be curious to know if Max has contacted everyone that purchased doors to let them know there is a potential problem or is he just going to let people go through the same hell he put me through. Summit Racing carries the doors and as a long time customer of theirs I contacted them about the problem and directed them to this thread, No clue if it will get any traction but $1400.00 is a lot of money for me to set fire to. If I had purchased the doors through Summit I would be raising holy hell with them. The doors are back in their original boxes so if Max has a change of heart and wants to refund my money I sure would appreciate it.

I ordered a hatch seal from Australia. Here are the profile differences between the PRECISION hatch seal and this one from Australia and their compression. This Australian Hatch seal has the same profile throughout the entire seal, unlike the "molded corner" Precision one. The 2nd hatch seal I tried was ordered from VintageRubber and it is identical to the Precision seal, which is anything but precise. 😆

Go to their website if you haven’t already. I’ve used them and it is ceramic coating. They have a great video. Good People.

I can only speak for myself. But it wasn't but just a few years ago that there wasn't any replacement sheet metal. Tabco pieces were about it. When manufactures start supplying parts, for me, it is very positive. But when you actually purchase and install, that is something completely different. You are risking the entire outcome of a restore based on just a few pieces of sheet metal. That is why tossing them was much less expensive than using them.

How did things get so bad, since this last thread? https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68334-resurrected-classics-continues-to-impress-with-new-fenders-hatches-and-bumpers/

I thought that "AI" would do that for us. Apparently not -

Like me an expensive lesson. It's a shame that Facebook has basically destroyed the forums. It's impossible to warn people since there are 9 bazillion FB groups that deal with the S30 and I'm not going to go to the trouble of posting on all of them.

Is Jethot coating similar to ceramic coating like they put on exhaust manifolds?

I thought I would add my 2 cents to this. I am not surprised the doors didnt line up. I would certainly reskin doors if I could. If the doors are reskinned correctly, they will be flawless. I would try to stay away from aftermarket panels at all cost. The possible exception is the green classicfab panels. I have used most of them on a combination of 2 different cars. My only complaint about classicfab is to my knowledge, they dont make front fenders but I wish they did. The rockers, floors, the entire rear quarters are very good. The body shop I use until recently, only did classic cars. They were very happy with the classicfabs. I bought new front fenders from resurrected classics a couple of months ago. I thought they were questionable when I pulled up the driveway and saw the box on the porch. "Made in China" was stamped on the side of the box. I test fit them on one of my cars. They didnt fit. Regardless, I took them to the body shop and kept my initial observations to myself assuming they were smarter than me. They test fitted on my other car and they didnt fit. The horror was when they sent me a short video clip of the fender sitting on my car. He was able to press on the top of the fender with his finger. He called it "Oil canning" if you can envision the horror. VERY thin steel. So $700-$800 went in the garbage. Lesson learned.

Glad it helps! I had the whole system Jethot coated, except the NOS black and chrome exhaust tip. All of the hangars are also OEM/NOS.

Recently, a friend and I were working on the 240Z Original R180 differential and we both were not happy with neither the state of the original factory-installed differential strap belt, nor with the replacement options. None of the available replacements look anything close to the original belts. After a b it of research, my friend found this one on AliExpress, which is some sort of V-belt or something: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006145171328.html make sure to order the 12ribs pk560 type. NOTE: We realized all original belts had different lengths (probably due to wear and tear), so make sure to measure your original one (best done with a piece of tape) before you order. I also cannot guarantee that this will fit perfectly and was not able to install it yet. But so far it looks pretty good: The only problem: the replacement belt has some pretty colorful markings on the outside and is quite shiny. I tried different things, but the best to get rid of it was simply to sand it off with some 80-grit paper: After some manual attempts, I chose the belt-sander to get rid of the rest. Be careful to sand off a minimum only, if you remove too much material, the woven white threads inside the rubber will become visible. Not what you want. And here is the result: Left AliExpress replacement original, Center: Aliexpress sanded down. Right: Original Nissan Belt. I'm quite satisfied, and so far it looks like the most OEM-looking option I have seen so far. Somewhere in future, we'll see how well it fits, too :-)

That's extremely helpful, @AZ-240z! Thank you. Let me know how much $$$ I need to send you to purchase that NOS one from you 😅 @DatsunZGuy @zed2 Thanks so much for these... going to compare to the above and see how it lines up. Will need to powder coat or similar to get the original OEM looking paint on the exhaust tip.

Update: My new alternator came in and when I tested the voltage regulator cap the leads that go to the diode read OL in one direction and when I switched the leads it read 0.597 V. That is what a diode should do. Low and behold the alternator is now outputting voltage. :) Problem solved. Now I have a spare alternator :)