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first happy thanksgiving to everybody, I do have one question maybe someone can answer. I have been chasing exhaust fumes which really are not that bad, but the wife still smells it. on my rear deck I have the large weatherstrip that's been installed years ago but I was missing the small one that I call the part where it goes the rain gutter. Nissan part is a 3-piece weather strip. the one msa sells made by precision that is a 1-piece weather strip that glues to the top channel where the hinges are and down the 2 sides. I really do not know what is does, is it meant to keep water out of the channel or is for exhaust fumes? thanks

Not sure where you are located, but I have a very clean tank out of a 72 240z that I will not be using. Located in Northwest Ohio. Feel free to message me if interested. Jon

Hi Yarb, yeah I really love the LX... it's a great vehicle and I've had the upper/lower rear links replaced with beefier off road type.. it really makes the thing handle very well on the highway. It's really the only rig that I know will start reliably every single time. With a true V8, it's also good at towing Z's, trailers, and even small boats.. ;)

It’s a great video! Kats

S30.World

Just got this back today from Sanderson's headers South Francisco it's ceramic coated inside and out $150. Nice people quality workmanship

1971 Datsun 240Z upon inspection with a bore scope can see lots of rust inside my gas tank Wondering if someone can tell me where I can get a new tank.

The kit I purchased was from Motorsports Auto. I had to remove all of the spacers so my head did not hit the roof. As mentioned, I want to contour the seat foam so I sit down in the foam and not on top of it. The foam is very stiff and does not conform to your body. Looking for suggestions as best method to contour for foam.

I used 5/8"-long pan head Phillips sheet metal screws on the sides up front. I don't know how to specifically describe sheet metal screws. For the three screws in the "glove bin" I used M5-0.8x12 countersunk Phillips screws. All the screw heads were spray painted flat black. The heads of the M5 screws I used are a smaller maximum diameter than are the countersink holes in the bin so perhaps the OEM screws have a special head to make them flush with the bin floor. My 1972 FSM (Section 123) shows holes for the front screws (for "floor finishers" from Aug '71 it says) but no screws are shown in the drawing. The rear three screws are likewise nowhere to be seen.

Any clue of the 3 to 5 screws type and lenght for the center console of a 1972 240z?

Here's something to read through. This guy is something else, he don't know half arse hence the name Hardway.

WHat about the 3-5 screws on the center console? I lost the original screws. anyone?

Any supplier i should consider before reconstructing both of the seats on my 1972 240z? https://www.thezstore.com/datsun-240z-1972/product/5900/seat-upholstery-kit-w-velour-insert-left-and-right-red-72-73-240z

My daily driver.

Come on now, I’m sure @mike can get that loaded on an enclosed transport for me!!

Due to EU regulation you are not allowed to tow more than the wet weight of the car, so in my case that’s 1400kg (3100lbs). But I can confirm that she tows 3500kg (7700lbs) no problem using my dad’s 15 feet (without hitch) trailer, picture for trailer size reference.

Settle down Yarbinator! You two are in opposite corners of the country. You’d have to stop at my house to rest and wire my Haltech Nexus R3 to my engine in my Z just to rest and catch your breath. Your lucky to have friends like me that would do that for you… 😎

Nice torque numbers Mitchel! That little thing could tow your house!

I currently daily drive my base spec highway cruiser 2018 Opel Astra Sports Tourer with the 110hp 1.6CDTI diesel tuned up to 145hp and 278ft/lb of torque. Seeing as gas prices and road tax are pretty high in the Netherlands and I drive a lot for work I really needed a cheap, reliable and fuel efficient car. For context per month I pay $160,- in road tax + $90,- for all risk insurance and diesel cost $8,02 a gallon ($8,55 for normal gasoline). With a MPG of 60 and currently 156.000 miles on the odometer my shitty Opel (GM/Stellantis platform) is still going strong. The car is also incredible simple to maintain with the ability to do all maintenance myself. I also get compensated $0,37 per mile for my daily commute so the car has already paid for itself. It might be boring but it’s comfortable, fuel efficient and gets the job done. (Photo taken by my girlfriends analogue camera)

No doubt, the camera and video have been my best friends through this journey. Once I get under there if it looks like swapping the old ones out are going to require a lift i may just wait and get someone to do it for me.

Once you get the new lines, straighten them out and lay them side by side and take pics. You will be referring back to those pics a lot.

Have you currently got snow like that?

My daily for the last bunch of years... My trusty steed, my Civic hatch.

Thanks guys. Sounds like the sizes will be fine, now the labor to get it right lol. I don't have a lift but do have some mechanical friends to lend a hand. What I think I'll do is get it up on stands, tackle the headers and pipe which should be within my wheelhouse, then assess if the lines can be done. If not, I'll get it to someone I trust who does have a full shop.

2010 BMW 535XiT M sport trim AWD. I haven't tuned it yet. I can add almost 100hp without much effort. It's new to me just recently. It's my errands car when I'm not driving my work truck