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Parts are located in North Dakota. If you want pix I can do that for you. I have been around this forum for a while and I make and sell Datsun Distributor parts that are NLA so there should be a few members that will vouch for me. You can DM me, email me at chaug@bis.midco.net or text me at seven zero one - 471 - Fifteen Thirty four. If you google search Matchbox distributor breaker plate repair kit you will find me.

@preith I have a HVAC housing with a broken mounting ear that I would be willing to part out. Do you have everything else needed? I have several complete manual HVAC setups and one Auto setup.

In the process of accumulating parts to convert from the dreaded "auto" HVAC system to something manual. In need of a used manual "water ****" valve assembly along with with associated air-mix door linkage pictured below. The valve need not be operational, I'm only interested in the linkage assembly and housing that bolts to the airbox - hoping someone can pull it off a parts car or something. Thanks!

Another reason to look @ a car before bidding/purchasing

Should have put it on BaT so we could pick it apart!

That seller 911r has legions of bat followers who droolover their driving videos and art pics. I haven't looked at the listing but I would guess no one has pointed out any of the issues beyond the mismatched paint work. Good from far...

It looks bent around the exhaust pipe. Maybe backed the pipe in to something and it caused some damage. Good Not so good, but not terrible. The bumper looks a bit dinged up on the bottom too.

Wow, that close-up really shows some warts, Thanks.

If, by 'damage', you're referring to the discoloration on the bumper face, it's caused by the fumes from the exhaust.

'Make damn sure your sparks are right before you start messing around with the fuel'. Butch Bohunk, Master Mechanic, Finzio's Sincair Service

SX

Millen!

Trailered…

After many nights thinking about it, the current Black Friday sale and optimizing my order for the most value for my money I finally decided to pull the trigger. Maybe it’s because of the size and weight of the total order but the calculation of the shipping was a bit weird. As the parts will need to be shipped to the Netherlands I knew the shipping would be expensive but my shipping came down to almost $600!! By combining some stuff I got the shipping to drop down to $280,- while still giving me the stuff I wanted and basically a free rear strut brace. Here is a list of all the stuff I got: - Front fender brace - Frame rails - Rear strut brace - Front control arms - Steering knuckles - Front crossmember - Upper steering rack clamps - Rear control arms While weighting my options Apex dropped there Retro Mod line of suspension which allows you to keep the stock R180 or R200 long nose differential, axles and spindles. I really wanted to get the new rear suspension and subframe but found it to be too expensive for me at this time. By dropping the rear subframe I got to order the front crossmember, control arms and steering knuckle and still be a lot cheaper off. Weirdly ordering all the front suspension bits separately was almost $300,- cheaper than buying the Retro Mod front suspension kit. Seeing as I don’t need the tie rods (and the steering rack, you need to buy that separately) I’m even cheaper off. I already contacted my body shop about it and I think we will have the car back on the road by the end of winter. They will also put the car on a frame machine and measure the car to see if the chassis is twisted. And yes Zed Head I heard you about the bushings but besides that there might be more going on. Along with the new control arms all bushings will be replaced before going to the body shop.

Thanks again! I reached out to zKars, I’ll see what he has to say. Also, I wonder how much I could mill off the E31 cylinder head to help get the compression ratio back up before I ran into chain tensioner issues?

Hi, I'm sure the compression on a L20 with a E31 head will be misarable.. you need the e30 head. As i once put a E30 on a 240z 2393cc engine it made far to much compression it needed a really FAT headgasket.. I've got 2! E30 heads in my pile of parts, one complete rebuild and one still in parts.. but they are expensive i have heard.. Also i'm in the Netherlands, Europe. I think one day they will find theire way to Japan... 😀

My vote is that electronic distributer. Do you have an old points style one you could swap back to ?

I'd see if you can work out a deal for the proper head if you're looking to be close to a restoration. I don't want to hurt zKars' position but he did say "never been able to sell". Seems like he's been waiting for you... Good luck. I redid the math for what should be the E31 head and got 7.7. Didn't add your millimeter overbore though. Also found that some of the engine calculators out on the internet seem to have the wrong chamber volumes. I used the dimensions and reported CR from the FSM to calculate volume. Just for fun.

It’s a very low number, numbers matching, right hand drive car.

Is there a specific reason that you're trying to save the L20?

I appreciate the response, also I would be taking the block 1mm over to 79mm for the pistons above. I used a few different calculators and was getting in the mid to high 7’s and that’s what made me worried as well as potential valve clearance issues with the block using the E31 with the larger valves. I saw that Tony D had mentioned using L24 pistons in the L20 block but I’m guessing it would have to be sleeved? I think that would be my best way out if the block doesn’t need sleeved.

Hi all! Currently restoring the rear hatch in all its glory, and dug through this thread. Does anyone know if the outer gasket/foam seal on the interior hatch panel (the one with the rubber flaps for rain, etc) is the same soft 8mm foam as is used on the vent shown here? Looking to replace the degraded foam, and trying to figure out the correct material. Cheers! IMG_6962.HEIC IMG_6965.HEIC IMG_6971.HEIC IMG_6976.HEIC

I got 7.5 for the CR of an L24 head on an L20 block, assuming the L24 head is the dual SU head. Probably want to get with zKars on that L20 head. Realized that I used the E88 L24 head for the calculations. 8.6 CR instead of 9.0. I'll redo them later. Probably still under 8 CR.

Maybe try one of these cheap plug testers. At least you could visibly see spark getting to the plug and rule out ignition. What do the plugs look like? https://www.harborfreight.com/90-in-line-spark-checker-63593.html?hftm_sc=532&hftm_source=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21901271210&campaignid=21901271210&utm_content=171677806542&adsetid=171677806542&product=63593&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21901271210&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4cCWCcSJ4qCMytUVmlv7v7bX&gclid=CjwKCAiAlMHIBhAcEiwAZhZBUlzpLzH9TR7YSC9i3f7bzmYEm7gw-Ai3uRRfne-Qjhh-zYy0O4G-khoCpwwQAvD_BwE

Disconnect at the manifold/header exit and run your borescope up that way. That distributor looks like just a magnetic pickup distributor, that uses an external ignition module. But your exhaust blockage sounds reasonable. Good luck. Post pictures.