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@Mcbtuba Any chance you can post a photo of your install? I like the Retrosound stuff they've been coming out with lately. Might be nice to install one myself.

I believe these bolts are 10mm x 125 threads and 22.23mm long. I'd like to replace those as the 54 year old rusted almost stripped ones that I removed I'd rather not put back on. Does anybody know where I can find these special nuts, bolts & lock washers? Most likely they are hardened as well. Thank you in advance for any tips or directions that may come my way.

Steve, though I’m sure you’re not surprised, it worked! Thank you!

If I know the adjustment gear turns since I backed the pads in, does that mean the system is good? I really don't want to fight to pull the drum off again.

It is also important not to mix adjusters from one side to the other, as I believe they are handed

Thank you Zed, I didnt take any good pictures of the transmission yet, so i zoomed in on from another photo. I think it is the 4 speed F4w71B. I think i remember seeing the plate with 6 bolts infront of the shifter. Doing more research mine is a 01/77 build so its more than likely a 4 speed. Once I'm closer to finishing the build i think i'll try to buy a 5 speed.

It will even both sides out. It affects the adjustment of the shoes so will affect the brake pedal. Can't remember for sure but I think that you will also feel the brakes apply a little higher on the pedal after a notch gets taken up. It's one reason that seems rational for converting to disc brakes if you're in to precise brake performance. Should emphasize though that you need to be sure the parts are clean, lubricated, and not worn, in order for the system to work correctly. You can test it with a drum off by pulling the cable by hand and watching the parts move, I think.

You could get either in a 77. The numbers don't mean anything. Your picture is not very good. Here's some FSM stuff that should help.

I'm in the middle of a restoration and I want to confirm what transmission I have. I would get markings off the trans but I'm out of town. Is it a 4 or 5 speed? Came out of a 1977 280z. When driving it I only had 4 gears but I felt like there should have been 5 but it wouldnt go in.

Thats a very good bit to know and it totally makes sense. I'll have to keep that in mind when I finalize the fuel system. Since my fuel tank and mount is currently toast, I'm going to sub in a 3g fuel can for now. I've got the pump installed for now, im not happy with how it mounts so ill have to figure something out. I havent had a chance to look for a right angle nipple that might be able to save me some space. The rusty tire tub came in useful as I was able to run the fuel lines through it. Its just temporary to see if I can get the car running. Since I got the pump wired up I decided to see if pump would run and I got nothing. I dont think it has power. I didnt spend any time diagnosing it, I was happy to accomplish the little bit I did. I'm going to flip through the FSM and see what testing procedures they have. Obviously the fuse and maybe a fuel pump relay are at the top of my list. On a side note, I am having a really hard time with my shrink tube terminal connectors and I was wondering if you guys can suggest some better ones. I purchased these amazon terminals and I just cant get them to crimp for a damn. I have 3 different types of crimpers. The old fashion ones and two of the ratcheting kind. I had a couple of the normal terminals and they crimp really nice and tight, but for some reason the shrink tube ones just wont bite. Maybe I just have the wrong jaw. Can anyone also suggest some decent vacuum line? Im not a fan of the silicon ones and all the line I can find is super thick.

Green/White = Positive for gauge lights Red/Blue = Returns gauge lights to the rheostat (gauge light dimmer) Blue = Accessory (Key Switched) Constant power would be come from the cigarette lighter (Blue/White)

Awesome, that's exactly what I was hoping to hear, thanks @Zed Head. Does it matter that one drum's shoes are currently further-in than the other side's since I didn't need to loosen the passenger side's shoes to get the drum off/on but I needed to loosen the drivers side's? Basically I'm asking if the drums will permanently be unevenly tight, or if the automatic adjustment system will handle tightening the drivers side only so it matches the passenger's side and if that system has an adjustment limit. As an extreme example, if the drums are pulled all the way in using the adjustment wheel, would pulling the emergency brake 100 times get the car to the same/correct shoe adjustment level as if someone followed the FSM using the method you noted (albeit just taking considerably longer by contrast)? Also, the auto adjustment system is only calibrated using the emergency brake and not the brake pedal, right?

I bought a retrosound radio to replace an older tape deck. The previous owner had shredded the old harness but I mostly got it back to stock. Hooked up the blue 12v constant, ground, and speakers for both sides. It requires an additional power for illumination. I can’t seem to figure out ignition switched 12v, so the radio doesn’t turn on. I have a Red-blue, and a green-white left. Checked fuses and still not getting anything on the voltmeter when ignition is on for either wire. Wouldn’t be surprised if it’s a me problem, but the frustration is rising. Thank you!

Use the wheel to get close and the brake lever for final adjustment. Tighten the wheel until the drum barely goes on, then pump the brake lever a few times. If the self-adjustment is working the lever will only come up about half-way. As you drive the car occasionally you'll notice that parking brake lever got tighter as the wheel moves a notch.

Hi gang, I'm a bit confused regarding adjusting the rear shoes after replacing the wheel cylinders. I was able to yank the drum off without bringing the shoes in on one side but the other I had to play with that little shoe adjustment wheel to bring the shoes in before the drum would pop back on. I am reading in the FSM that pulling the e-brake a few times adjusts the shoes back out automatically, but I'm reading on the forums you have to play with that gear again to bring the shoes back out. Any ideas which it is?

Up front in the area of the console look for blue tape around the wire harness. That's where you should find the female plug with 2 wires. Put a jumper across the plug and you should then have power back at the tank for the electric pump. It's a good idea to put an inertia switch in the jumper loop to shut off the pump in the event of a crash.

The original pump includes an inlet strainer, but I don’t think the O’Reilly’s E16078 has one. In principle it’s the same style as the Bosch 0580 254 044 that replaced the factory unit. If you want to add a pre-filter, you can install two 5/16" filters in parallel to avoid fuel starvation and prevent cavitation in the pump. Their only purpose is to protect the pump, the filter up front will protect the injectors. 280 Series Fuel pump Alternatives Rev 1.pdf

Sorry, this 240Z dash is not in the car but here are pictures of the dash wiring and the unused connector that could deliver power back to a fuel pump. The wiring comes down the right side of the heater slider assembly with all the wiring to the fuse box and center console connections.

🤣 OMG... I used to do that... Thank goodness I haven't seen a phone cord in decades!

The cup or the embossed piece holds the spring and the small hole keeps the pin centered. I'm sure you've seen a spring that has slipped to one side - now you have spring steel that is potentially causing wear on the pin and backing plate due to it's abnormal position.

Yes, the terminal on the ballast resistor with the higher voltage is the ignition side. I would move your red Pertronix wire from the coil + side to that terminal, that is how I have it hooked up and that's what Pertronix shows in their diagram. You measured 10V and that seems to be on the low side but may be OK if the engine is not running and the alternator not charging. When I installed the Pertronix on my car I cleaned all of the electrical connections on the resistor and coil. After 50+ years there may be some dirt or corrosion on the terminals/connectors. Also, you probably know, but do not leave the ignition in the "ON" position very long with the engine not running as it can overheat and damage the Pertronix module.

Just got the harmonic balancer Back. Looks really good. Namerow asked for pictures.

Thanks jpc3006-1. I'm assuming that'll be the side with the Black wire? Voltage measurement there is 10V and on the other side is right around 6V. That's with the ignition to the "ON" position, as the car's not currently able to run. Voltage at the battery is 12V. On a more positive note, the clock actually works. Who would have thunk it? It's just ticking away...

Pair of original wiper arms, stainless steel. no rust, marked left and right. $60.