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Found 157 results

  1. 81 280z part out

    Parting out an 81 280z, complete engine, with wiring, turns over by hand, 5 speed(spins smoothly) with flywheel pedals dust cover and driveshaft, complete trim, misc interior parts and pieces. I'll post pictures asap. Feel free to message me with any questions
  2. Dude locally is selling front hub assembly off a 1977 280z for $200. He says that rotors, wheel bearings, etc. are in good shape. I need them to cut for my coilover conversion so I don't care about the strut itself. Is $200 a fair price? https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/d/240280z-parts/6514563435.html I saw them in the bottom left of this pic:
  3. Dashboard Repair Guide

    Hi guys. I just wrote a dashboard repair guide for my website, ZCarGuide.com! Take a look and let me know what you think. https://zcarguide.com/repair-dashboard-datsun-z/ Thanks! Mark
  4. Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    My 1976 280z won't rev past 3500 when not in gear, and about 2000 when in gear. When in neutral it will blow clouds of black smoke at higher rpm. It has run way to rich like this since I bought it. I have checked the wiring and sensors and rectified the issues I found to no avail. The water temp sensor was the first place I looked, I replaced it when I first got the car. It is giving the correct reading all the way to the ECU and has a noticeable effect when I unplug it. My only guess would be a AFM, I have two but don't know the condition of either. They both passed the ohm tests, could there still be an issue with them? If not what else could be causing such a rich condition, especially at higher rpm.
  5. WANTED: 280z 5-speed red shifter knob face

    I am looking for a replacement shifter knob face (pendant?) or whatever it is called. Mine fell off and none of the numbers can be read on it anyway. I can't seem to find a replacement knob or face anywhere on the web. Anyone have one? It should look like this: Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Nissan-Datsun-280Z-Red-5-Speed-Shift-Knob-Quadrant-Pendant-Insert-only-/302491993969?rmvSB=true&nma=true&si=%2Fs8QomOaONdt1mTkk5bu%2BWKPp5E%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 I would consider buying the whole knob if you have that instead and don't want to tear it apart.
  6. Engine crank no start

    Hello everyone, new to the club. I'm working on a 1978 280z and this thing has been sitting for years. So to start out I drained the fuel tank and put new fuel in, changed engine oil/ filter, installed new spark plugs & wires. All while I was waiting for a new ignition switch to show up. So once I got the ignition switch installed I started to crank it over trying to get a start. It wouldn't start so I took off the air measuring device and tried some starting fluid. It backfired on me. I verified I had spark at my plugs. I ended up going under the car and checking the voltage at the fuel pump while cranking and I had 0 volts going to the pump itself. Can someone help me out with wiring diagram and or description of up stream components to check from the fuel pump? (relays/fuses) and the location on the vehicle. Thank you all for the help and the add.
  7. Help removing front valnace

    I am trying to remove front bumper and valance on my 1978 280z to make way for a new air dam. I am stuck removing the valance. I got all of the obvious bolts out, but there are 2 issues: The side fender and valance appear to be "fused" together? The last few bolts have some kind of gunk/material that is nearly hard as rock stuck on them and I can't get to the bolts. I thought the valance was 3 pieces. It looks like where the middle and side piece attach, there is a ton of gunk around the bolt that holds them together. WTF is this stuff? 2nd pic is zoomed in on area of first pic: Secondly, why do the fender and valance appear to be fused together at the seam? I didn't really want to take a screwdriver and hack at it... also, behind the valance in the 2nd pic below is another bolt that has a ton of gunk. No way I can get a socket or wrench around it. Any tips for getting these last few pieces out?
  8. I went to start up my 1976 280z and it didnt fire up, so i checked the spark and it was fine. So i took off the cover of the air flow sensor to check the fuel pump and i heard the relay click but not the fuel pump. So i took the pump out and it works then checked the power to it and had 11.8 or 11.3 volts or something. I plain to re hook up the pump to the connectors to see if it works now, and there was just something in it that i shook lose when i took it out. Is there anything else i should check or another shut off for the pump. -Thank You
  9. Hello there, I am currently on the hunt for a long nose R200 differential! Ideally I would like a 4.1 CLSD. However I will happily settle for a 3.9 CLSD. I seem to be having poor luck with local yards and shops and decided to drop back in here as I scavenge. Additionally It would be wonderful if anyone has a 280z mustache bar from a part out! ... Or anywhere really, my swap budget has been exceeded already (probably not surprising)! Any direction or advice is greatly appreciated! Note: I'm a Canadian resident and I'm willing to ship for the right part! Thanks, Wesley
  10. Maryland Z Club

    If you live in Maryland, lookup the club on Classic Z Car Clubs and if interested check us out on the web and join us. http://www.mdzclub.org/joinus.cfm If you join, select "Internet Site" and list ClassicZCars.com in the comments as "How did you hear about us?"
  11. 1977 280z Restoration

    Hi all, I'm new to the forum and I need to soak up some Zed knowledge. I purchased a 280z a few years ago and I'm starting the process of restoration now. It's slow going for me. Also, if I've posted this in the wrong section, please let me know. The car has 69k miles on it and it no modifications. It does have a little rust in a few places, and a cheap respray job over the original light metallic blue paint. Right now my goal is to get it back on the road for under 3k (this does not mean 'restored' condition), and drive it occasionally as a second car while I slowly restore it as I am going back to school. I'm tired of paying the storage fees. lol. Well, at the moment I'm working my way through the electrical system and engine. Engine has compression as follows: cylinders in order from firewall, 115, 120, 90, 120, 120, 45. I also just did plugs and wires, a new fuel pump, and a new fuel filter. I did get it to start briefly on starter fluid. I also confirmed it did turn the fuel pump on when the air flow meter was held open with a screw driver. I'm hoping the low compression might just be stuck valves, but we'll see. Anyone with some knowledge to lend on the process of reviving a Z, I would greatly appreciate the input.
  12. 1" (25mm) wheel wheel spacers (NEW)

    Selling two pairs of 1" / 25mm wheel spacers: https://zcardepot.com/wheel-spacer-set-pair-1.html I was gonna put these on my 280z but decided to go a different direction with wheels. They are 4x114.3 bolt pattern. As I found, they fit the rears fine, but the center bore is not large enough to fit the fronts. You will have to machine that out if you want to use them on the fronts. These are brand new with 0 miles on them. If you want, I can include hubcentric ring adapters (73.1mm center bore to 66.1mm) with them. Save yourself $20-$40 vs. buying online. $50 OBO shipped per pair or $90 OBO shipped for both pairs
  13. Complete set of triple Weber 40DCOE carburetors ready to bolt on. Includes velocity stacks, air filters, choke cable and throttle linkage all connected and ready to install on your motor. Also includes a modified throttle spring mounting bracket and a Ferrari throttle spring recommended by another Z enthusiast that had triple Weber's. Works Great! I removed the Weber's from the 240Z I had them on after I missed a gear, over revved the motor and bent an Exhaust valve. I pulled the motor and decided to rebuild it. When it was completed we put the original SU's back on because I wanted to sell the car and get another one with less rust. I wanted the Weber's for the next Z I bought. Well, I never got another Z car but instead defected for a Porsche 911. (Also have an original orange 240 Z air box. Please see other post.) $1,150.00 + Shipping
  14. hello everyone im new here. but ive loved z cars since i played with them as a kid and new id still be playing with them as an adult but i have abit of a problem. My efi system is just a mess. im pretty sure the car might of had some water damage so i decided to switch to carburators. is there a major difference between n33 and n46 intake manifolds? which one fits my 1997 (cali model) 280z better. are there preformance difeerences? also which are better carbs for my car. i just wanna cruise and have awesome acceleratoin. should i go with twin su's or the triple weber setup? also if anyone has any carbs for sale at a reasonanble price please contact me thanks so much!
  15. WTB 75 280Z Fuel Tank

    Looking for a 75 280Z fuel tank that is in fair condition or restored already
  16. A lot of 280z cars have these chrome strips on the doors and underside of the doors, like the orange one below, are they original? I've never seen a brochure where cars had them. If they are not original, when were they introduced on the market? Or were they an option? The 260z 2+2 in the picture won an award for being original, while it also has the strips on the side.
  17. Hey guys, I need new coilovers at all 4 corners. Regardless of the fact that I have no idea yet which ones to get, I need a few questions answered: Where did you take your coilovers + strut tube to have them welded together? (do I need a specialty shop or what?) How much did it cost to weld all 4 coilovers? (I plan on taking them the new coilovers + disassembled part) What do I need to provide to the shop to have the job done? (which OEM parts, what kind of info do I need to provide in terms of ride height, etc.)
  18. Datsun 280Z for sale

    My restored 280Z is for sale now. See: spies@nwflorida.net https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/d/datsun-280/6330462965.html
  19. Officially now up for sale is my prized possession, my 1975 Datsun 280Z. This hurts me to write this ad but it's something I must do. I don't drive the car as much as I thought I would, and I am currently starting a new business so financially it makes sense. Before posting it up to Ebay, I figured I would list it here first since this forum has been a huge help with the build. I originally bought the car in August of 2013 and immediately began the restoration process. It was completely stripped down to the chassis, media blasted, rusted areas were removed, and replaced with new metal. The car was then sent to Emmel's Enamels in Denver where it received the full rotisserie treatment. Original Datsun color #904 base coat/clear coat was applied. Countless hours of wet sanding and polishing were done to create a beautiful gloss. All suspension, steering, and undercarriage components were blasted and powder coated semi-gloss black. Every nut, bolt, or hardware that was originally plated was sent out and stripped, and re-plated a beautiful yellow zinc. All rubber was either rejuvenated or replaced with new. Body: 240Z front valance, bumper, grille, and marker lights. 240Z rear bumper. New windshield. BRE rear spoiler. Paint protection film installed on full hood, fenders, and lower valance. Motor: Rebello Racing 3.0 liter stroker. L28 with N42 head. 89mm Cast Pistons. L24 rods with ARP bolts. Turbo oil pump. 63DI 109 Hot B Cam. Triple 45 DCOE Weber Carbs w/ K&N filters. Port and polished head. Port matched intake. 11:1 compression. Engine dyno'd at 301 hp/269 tq Wrinkle red powder coated valve cover. Datsun Spirit MSD plug wires. Datsun Spirit heat shield. MSD 6a Ignition. MSD booster 5 Speed transmission from 81' 280ZX Suspension: BC coilovers with adjustable height, dampening, and camber. Energy Suspension performance polyurethane bushings Wheels/Tires: 15X8 Rota RKR in Black magnesium painted black metallic. Dunlop Direzza 205/55R15 tires. Brakes: Silvermine stage 3 disc brakes. fully rebuilt rear brakes with all new drums and pads. Stainless steel brake lines. New brake booster and master cylinder. Interior: 240Z refurbished steering wheel. Refurbished dash (dash cover currently on). All new bulbs in dash. New carpet, seats, console, headliner and vinyl trim. Retrosound AM/FM/USB/bluetooth stereo with (4) Polk Audio 5.25 speakers. Misc. New battery, new alternator, new starter, new clutch master cylinder, Custom 3" stainless steel exhaust with Dynaflow muffler, Fuel lab regulator, new fuel pump, Skillard fuel tank straps, aluminum 3 core radiator, all new hoses and clamps. Also have original window sticker. I am sure there are a ton of things that I have forgot to mention but this car is in immaculate condition and is basically a brand new car. I have only put approximately 1800 miles on the new motor. This car is an absolute blast to drive and has no shortage of power. Cons: There are some minor flaws here and there, a couple small knicks in the paint. The chrome taillight bezels could probably be re-plated but aren't that bad. The clock and amp gauge are not working. Also missing a spare tire, but have jack and tools. This isn't a concourse restoration but definitely a 9.5 out of 10. Located near Denver, CO. Price is $25000. I am pretty firm on the price, I believe it is a very fair price for the amount of money and quality of work that has gone into this build. I will not accept lowball offers. If you are interested please reply to this thread or text/call me directly at 303-999-7109. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions. Also if there are any specific pictures you want just let me know. Thanks for looking! -Matt Please check out my build thread here for detailed pictures and complete write up. Thank you.
  20. UPDATE 10/8/2017: Decided to make this my "build thread". Summary: I recently bought a 1978 280z with an L28ET swapped into it. The owner did the swap in 2005 and left the car almost completely stock otherwise while driving it 1k-2k miles per year. It is a perfect base car for a fun project! My goal is to make it drive/handle like a modern car and eliminate any weird noises. I don't know much about the Z's or older cars in general, but I have done a lot of suspension work with my Nissan Xterra and several motorcycles. Once I freshen it up and get suspension and looks down, I'll likely start adding to engine power. Key: [x] = Done [-] = In progress [ ] = Want [x] = Removed Exterior: [ ] Fix rust spots! [ ] Add rear spoiler [ ] Add front spoiler [ ] Add some cool decals or get a new paint job Interior: [ ] Fix/cover split seams in top of dash (use this cover?) [ ] Get new shift knob (the old one has the gear indicator thing broken off) [ ] Fix missing dash lighting when lights are on Wheels/Tires/Brakes: [+] 4Runner four-piston front brake calipers with stainless steel brake lines [ ] Disc brakes conversion in the rear with stainless steel brake lines [-] 205/60/R15 Sumimoto Tires [-] 15" wheels - XXR 557 (15x7 4x114.3 +15mm offset) [-] 1" (25mm) wheel spacers to fit wheels (final offset after spacers is -10mm) [x] Stock 14" wheels Suspension/Steering: [-] Stance Coilovers with Camber Plates and 5k/4k spring rates rear/front [-] Adjustable front control arms (techno toy tuning) [-] New tension rods (techno toy tuning) [-] Adjustable rear lower control arms (techno toy tuning) [-] Aluminum steering coupler (techno toy tuning) [-] New tie rod ends [-] New swaybar bushings in the front [ ] Power steering! Engine/Driveline/Exhaust: [-] Rebuild half shafts with new u-joints [ ] Mandrel bent 3" exhaust and downpipe [ ] One of those mufflers with 2 vertical pipes coming out the back (I like the look) [ ] Upgraded turbo + an intercooler + boost controller [ ] Megasquirt II (instead of stock '82 ZX ECU) Other:
  21. Nice fiberglass front end made in the early 1980's by Perfect Plastics Incorporated. These were previously installed, and will minor repairs and refinishing. Asking $400 for the set with pick up in Sturbridge, Massachusetts. Will crate and ship at buyer's expense. Paul
  22. 1976 280Z Wont Start

    Z ran when parked Had it running in January after I chased down a misfire issue that came from a faulty ECU. She ran mint so I began my tear down, months later here we are and I thought Id have it running today but no luck. Heres what I got so far from trouble shooting. My battery is fully charged (tender says 100%), its less than a year old. My digital multimeter has it showing about 12.8 yet when I put the car on the "ON" position, my battery gauge in the dash reads about 8.5. I tested the ECU pins with a dmm and it will read 8 and change. Is this normal? Is this a fault in the voltage regulator? I tested the 6 pin connection that goes into the voltage regulator but didnt have much daylight to really spend time on it. About 3 of the connections read battery voltage, I think 2 read around 4.2 and 1 read really low, I forget the number. Fuel pump works when power is applied directly from an outside source (getting proper fuel pressure at my regular and fuel rail gauge when applied) but not from the car itself. The FPR reads 0 and you dont hear any fuel going to the rail. No leaks. Through testing the fuel relay from the ECU pins, I wasnt getting any reading so Im certain the relay is faulty. I bought that today and am just waiting for it. Could this potentially bad relay be causing all these gremlins? Spark is coming from the coil but no spark at the plugs. Something is up with the dist? I checked the AFM through the pins of the ECU harness and that looks perfect. Another small thing I noticed, when I hit my horn button, my tachometer will jump!! What is going on with my Z? Thanks!
  23. I have had my z for a couple of months (1976 280z) had some trouble with the ignition relay at first (accessories did not work) but got them working in the end. Started driving it 2 weeks ago no problems everything worked fine. Then last week I went to start it and it had no spark so after messing with the ignition relay and coil for a bit I found one of the fuseable links was bad (the one that goes to the lights, whippers and washer motor controls.) I replaced it hooked up every thing tured the key, and nothing worked then I heard a relay click and a fizz frying type sound comming from the passanger side didnt smell any thing. I took out the igniton relay and took it apart and all the wiring harness conectors. Checked the relay and filed the contacts and hooked it back up and still nothing. If I turn the lights on the voltage gauge pegs below 12 volts and the lights dont turn on the head lights will on the second click. I tried unhooking all the wires connecting to that control arm and still nothing when i tured the key. I could still hear the clock ticking aswell. I am thinking about taking the dash out I also need to replace the heater core, do some rust work on the fire wall and under the battery, and carpet aswell as some lights and what not behide the dash. Thank you.
  24. I just bought a 1976 280z 2+2 and received 2 kinds of keys from the seller. The first set is a key that has many "teeth" that works only on the ignition. The second set's "teeth" is smooth and less jagged and only works on door locks. I would prefer only 1 key for everything. Is this common?
  25. L28 280Z Car engine problems!!!

    Hi all, I have recently bought a 280Z 1978 in London UK. It was an ex Cali car and from the license plate hadnt been driven since 2007. Ive spent the last couple months trying to get her to run right, however She went from initially running a bit rich/smokey to now not running at all. Ive replaced the fuel pump as the old one was dying on acceleration (Installed a fuel pressure gauge). Ive replaced all normal things, spark plugs, oil, etc. The loom was very corroded so I have replaced the injector plugs with new ones, making sure to keep the right wire numbers/code from the handbook illustration.The AFM has been siliconed shut as in it has been perhaps tinkered with before. However I have diagnostic tested it and all readings read are that of factory. All readings from the ECU are fine. I have a vacuum leak somewhere, as is sometimes runs when all the hoses are off, if i go to reconnect say the breather hose back on to the rocker cover it just dies. Im stumped on that one.Starting to get really frustrated and have even thought of ripping out the F.I and chucking in some old carbs off a 240 or even still, breaking the bank and going with triple webers! Obviously this is not the desired outcome I just want the bloody thing to go!Any help would be great as like everyone here, I want to enjoy her, especially now that summer is here!Thanks JD
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