jfa.series1

The lower one in the pic is correct for your car.

You don't say where you are located but try and find one or two classic vehicle clubs in your area - any make car or truck. With enough trying, you'll get to owners who can get you local referrals.

Many thanks for all the constructive comments and suggestions. I've been running the AC Delco Friction Modified transmission lube for some time, great product and it has provided a significant improvement in shifting. I suspect I have a bearing problem, primarily occuring on cold start situations. Anyway, I'll move forward on tracking down components. With the recent change to the de minimus rule, it looks like most offshore shipments are now on hold pending guidance from the feds. ☹️

There is a possibility my original 4-speed may need a rebuild. It is my understanding that rebuild kits for the type "A" transmission are NLA, at least in the US. Some questions for our talented membership: Are any of the components of the "B" kit usable in the "A" transmission? Has anyone identified susbstitute components - bearings, bushings, synchros, ...etc.? Roadster parts? Any thoughts on where else to search for a type "A" rebuild kit? I really want to keep my driveline orignal. Swappng to a type "B" transmission is undesireable due to the potential for damage to the console and underlying body to accomodate the change in the shift rod location. I'm open and welcoming to any comments, suggestions and recommendations. Thanks, Jim

Sorry, I no longer have these antennas.

This is in regards to a hazard switch body, not a relay.

Be EXTREMELY cautious in bending any of the tabs, go slowly with very little pressure. The body is pot metal and breaks very easily. Ask me how I know. 😉

Ditto.

And if you decide to pursue auxillary lighting, here is the factory wiring Easter Egg just waiting for that switch in the dash. Remember, if you go this route you will want to install relays and larger gauge wiring to actually power the lights.

Both of those links are variations of the Registry PDF I posted back in June. To the best of my recall, the version I posted is the original format that was active at the time I added my car. This version includes the original engine # where known and a column for replacement engine info. Because it was an active online spreadsheet a user could modify the report format to suit their taste. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/69433-2015-2020-online-registry-spreadsheet/#comment-676812

Yup, I now recall the hood was pranged and repaired many years ago.

One more vote for the Wesco Roadster Retractable belts. You definitely want the 11" extention. I used only the OE bolts all araound, did not requre the hardware kit.

Apologies will never be necessary when one is caring for family and self. I am so very glad to see you back with us, your humor and knowledge have been sorely missed. For those of you who know them, here is a pic from ZCON 2015 when my wife and I were fortunate to make the in-person acquaintance of Philip and Janet. What a grand time we had hanging out with this couple and others from the classiczcars group.

With the hood and bumper installed this is the best I can get for pics, hope this helps.

At the request of @Yarb here are some details on my pop rivet install of the squeegee rubber on the belt molding. Background: When I was doing my car 14 years ago, replacement squeegee rubber was not available but Black Dragon had complete belt molding assemblies available at a great price. The molding was excellent but it was straight and not curved to fit the pinchweld on the top of the door. After several tries it was obvious the new molding would not easily curve into the required shape and I was not going to risk damage to a fresh paint job. So... I removed the squeegee strip with its thin metal backplate still stapled in place and installed it on my OE molding with 1/8" pop rivets spaced about every 4 1/2" at the staples. The backside of the pop rivets does not interfere with the fit onto the pinchweld.