Virto

Actually, aircon on most cars is belt driven...only a few cars, like Toyota's hybrids have an electrical compressor simply so the engine doesn't need to be turning. An A/C compressor is parasitic, and when you turn it on you may see reduced alternator output or an increased idle just because there's another belt being turned by the engine. You've absolutely got an odd problem Roger, but I can't really think of a cause right now if you've ruled out a too tight belt and you're 100% sure the compressor isn't crapping out.

You earn a coolness point for referring to Total Recall. Here's my contribution.

Here is an exact wording of the run-in from How to Repair/Rebuild your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine, by Tom Monroe: Once the engine is fired, it must be kept running at NO LESS THAN 1500 RPM and must be well lubricated and cooled. Lubrication is particularly important to the camshaft and rocker arms. This is why the engine should not be slow idled under any circumstances during initial run-in. If the engine won' maintain 1500RPM, SHUT IT OFF! This was taken word for word from Tom's book, so I was incorrect in stating 2000 RPM was the target. Before this of course, make certain you have good oil pressure. The main problem with poor oiling or a slow run-in is damage to the camshaft lobes, which isn't exactly cheap, and requires some disassembly. Sorry for misquoting the book, but hopefully this helps clear things up. Jmortensen: You're right, long term constant speed running is not so great for an engine, but the book states no LESS than 1500 RPM. If pressure is good, there's no reason not to increase the RPMs to a higher level and then drop back to the 1500RPM minimum. This is certainly easier with the car on stands or in neutral, but could be done on the street (if you have a mighty control of clutch and throtte), and some around the block action would certainly keep the RPM varied...although I wouldn't leave the garage to be honest. You're right in mentioning that bedding in the rings requires accel and decel, and this is possible in the garage without going below 1500. Tom Monroe mentions that as you run the engine, you'll see the RPM increase as the engine "loosens up" and things are mating together as they should. Marty: It should be noted that during this initial run-in the engine temp will be higher than normal, as the engine is "tighter" and tolerances are lower. As the engine breaks in, the temp will decrease. You should make sure you have a helper to watch the radiator and top it off as is required. Blowing a big ol' fan at it probably wouldn't hurt either. If the engine starts to overheat, stop it ASAP, since you don't want to warp anything.

I'm sorry if I caused confusion, it's 2000 and over for ~30 minutes. Specifically, he doesn't think letting the engine go under 2000rpm is a good idea until the cam is bedded in. I'll check the book (like all Z stuff, it keeps me awake at the office) and get back tonight, but maybe somebody else has it available and can clarify.

Yes, you'll still see oil flying about. The cam basically acts as the oil bar in engines with internal oiling. It's how I determined I had oil pressure when my gauge was acting goofy...not that they're very accurate when they work right. Also, the 2000RPM instruction should last you about a half hour. Enough time to bring the engine up to temp and keep it there. You can go longer than that without hurting anything, but apparently not doing it long enough could cause problems...so better safe than sorry.

Greetings to another plains dweller. Where exactly are you?

I'd have to agree. The whole region is below sea level, and it's not the first time something like this has happened. If you live in a city where giant pumps run 24/7, pumping out hundred of thousands of gallons of water a DAY just to keep the place from turning into a marsh, you should expect there to be some flooding. This is something that's going to happen again, in a year, two years or maybe not for a thousand years, but it'll happen. The begging for money and help is heartwrenching, but at some point, you've got to stop. If you can't afford to rebuild you need to relocate, and if you can't afford to rebuild every year, you need to find a new place that might not be so close to the floodplain. The loss of life that occurred is the worst part of the whole situation, and nobody can say that Bush or FEMA could have saved every person or thought of every possibility. Trust me, I'm not saying this to defend Bush, but to acknowledge reality. And what part of humanity has come forth from all this, both seconds after it began and still today? Greed and selfishness. From looting things that AREN'T food and water, to defrauding FEMA of cash cards. While heroes were also born of the same times, the fraud and crime continues today. While not as devestating in terms of lives, some of you may remember the great midwestern plains floods when the Mississippi and attached creeks and such massively rose, destroying countless acres of crops and entire generations of livelyhoods. I was there for it, filling sandbags as well as a preteen could. Although these were both horrible events, people will need to learn in New Orleans, like we farm folk did, that nature cannot be controlled and cannot be stopped. She will do as she pleases regardless of what you would like. The plains will likely flood again, and New Orleans will likely be back under 20 feet of water within the century. At some point, we have to let go of our can-do attitude and our foolish kings-of-everything pride and accept that we are like every other animal in nature. Had this happened 5000 years ago, the natives would probably have left the area for a very long time, if not for good...it's time we understand that our engineering will only get us so far. My heart goes out to all those affected by the events...but at some point the handouts have to stop. If you are able to steal and fight and kill, you are able to get a job and find a new home without something as inefficient as our government holding your hand.

Rebuilding Your L-series Engine suggests that you not let the engine idle below 2000 rpm, to ensure that the cam is well oiled...this is assuming you have a new or reground cam. Have fun turning her over, it's the day lots of us long for.

That pedal box is AWESOME! Are they going to have to come forward at all to allow full depression without hitting the bulkhead, or is that going to be enough room? Regardless they look GREAT.

Hard to say without getting under the car and having a better idea of what exactly he's on about. Considering the rails and floors could be rusted out (ala my car, even though she looked superb on the outside...) I'd say 1800 is a bit steep for a parts car. If we had a little more firsthand knowledge of the problems she has, it might be a good buy...but without at least knowing the underside condition, I'd pass.

Holy crap. This is possibly the best thing I've seen on ebay. Maybe Jay Leno will pick this one up for his "found on ebay" routine.

This is too dangerous based on what speeds you're moving at. If you're moving at high speed, letting the clutch out could cause one hell of an engine brake, resulting in a loss of control. Also, you risk damage to the engine, clutch and transmission at high speed. Push starting is a viable option, but I'd say only if you can't crank it with the key. On very rare occassions, my Tercel would do the same thing and I always used the key. Never did track that problem down though...:tapemouth

If you just need the flasher unit, you can probably pick that up at any parts store. If you need the control switch, that's much less common. You can call MSA and see if they stock one or hit bad dog at baddogparts.com and give him a call.

Yhea, I remember that last thread. I'd steer clear, espeically when there are reliable people like Bad Dog that can probably help.

In my Z, no...but I did use one when I still had my Lancer. Neat gizmo, but since it's accelerometer based, not totally accurate. When my uncle used it in his Challenger, it was generally about .3 seconds behind the actual 1/4 mile time. We never dyno'd the car, so we can't say how accurate the HP readings are.

On the dash, driver's side. Alternately, you can look at the info tag which should be in the driver's side door jam, or on the firewall near the brake booster.

Louvers look great on any 1st gen Z...if fact, it's too bad my set requires drilling the car, or I'd put them on. You can try bad dog parts or ebay for a good hatch/glass combo or maybe get lucky and find a pane of glass by itself. You can get a later model glass with defroster lines, but that would hurt the originality...however, lined glass is more common. Worst case scenario, maybe a local glass shop can fab you a window from safety glass.

Go man, Go! And good luck!

No rush, Arne. Don't want to make it seem like we're a bunch of vultures circling a kill. Down the road, when eaten your fill...err...taken everything you need, I'll probably be willing to at least take that little bit of carrion off your hands. Shame it had to end like that, looks like it would have been a nice car.

Wow, what a mess. If the steering wheel's in good shape I might be interested, since my 280's wheel was nearly melted by sunlight. Hopefully you get everything you've been looking for from it.

Welcome to the party!

I'm also interested in some. Mine are currently just some cut to fit pieces of steel with vents cut in them. I don't think the OEM ones are really available anymore, but if you find a source please share.

Not really on topic, but we sometimes, rarely get Elk. A large forest preserve north of Chicago has an Elk facility where they're supposed to remain caged over something like 200 acres, but once in a while a fence will come down or someone will snip the chain link, and an Elk or two will make it into the whole of the preserve. This wouldn't be so bad if there wasn't a 4 lane highway running through it. I've seen one Elk/car accident and I tell you, I'd much rather hit a deer.

Those have to be upgraded hubs, because those wheels are 5 lug...so they won't just bolt up unless they also make a 4-bolt set.