Virto

I have one in my garage. MSA doesn't even list them, but I think they were OEM, like the one for the rear bumper, which is on my car. I'd put the front one on but the plating is pretty torn up, and the PO labeled it with masking tape which, over time peeled off some of the chrome. I like that one though...now I wish mine looked better.

I also have a 78 280Z and I love the car. It's true these cars are rust nightmares, and with rust under your battery, you need to be VERY certain you check the frame rails. Battery acid can drip down onto the rail, and frame rot in these cars can be very severe...and not all to fun to fix. Also, the 280Z came from the factory with an L28 and fuel injection, so this car has been modified to run with carbs. That could create some oddities, but the people here are pretty experienced, and more than willing to help. You might want to go scope the car out, taking a lot of pictures if you can, to upload here. That way members from all around can tell you what they think of the condition. Make sure you get pictures of the frame rails. The floorpan is easy to fix, the spare tire well can be harder to come by, but frame rust is one of those hair pulling things if you can't find someone who can do the job right.

Nice way to start my early morning. Thanks. .

Might have more than one VIN, , if that dash came from a 280. Check the firewall stamp and let us know, we'll get you straightened out.

...yhea, it sounds odd, but from experience, it's probably a piece of gravel in the treads.

Tires, like all forms of rubber, deteriorate with time. It's possible the car sat for a long time and the tires flattopped or rotted out. If the owner is trying to sell it, it's a lot easier when the car is in a driveable condition, or even towable as opposed to trailer stock. Plus potential buyers often swoon when hearing what "new" parts a car has. Makes it sound well maintained. (Or maintained, at least).

The auction says it's for 70+ Z cars, but don't 70-71 cars have a different clutch? I thought that because of the metal fan they had a different clutch to handle the weight. Not really on topic, since the car in question is 76, just satisfying my own thirst for knowledge.

Love it love it love it. Keep the updates coming. I'm really enjoying following this restoration.

Like K&N or Fram? They do work a bit better, since they're generally better flowing than OEM paper or cotton filters. They are, in a lot of cases however, pretty expensive, in the range of 50-100 bucks depending on the application. Overall, you won't really see much of a benefit unless you're running WOT at high RPMs. Straight intakes and to a lesser degree, drop in high-flow filters tend to produce benefits at high RPM, and there's often times a reduction in low end torque. However, depending on how dusty/nasty your climate and daily miles are, they can be worth the money just because you can reuse them after cleaning...although in experience, when you choose to clean them, don't plan on going anywhere that day because they need to dry completely before you oil them.

I think galleries are still offline from the site update...but i've been wrong before. It looks like I can't even get to the main photo galleries, so I'd imagine it might be another couple of days before everything's back up and running. EDIT: Yup, I'm wrong again. The galleries are back up, but it looks like you have to actually go to the member galleries' section and choose the member now. Here's a link to Jackhammer's gallery. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=7601

Combo switch or turn signal switches will run about 250 a pop. There are several threads on testing the circuits and cleaning contacts in the switches before you do anything drastic. You'd hate to buy a new switch and find out you have a short or a broken wire somewhere. If your hazard flashers aren't working, I'd imagine you've probably got more of a wiring problem than a switch problem.

Did you buy a new factory unit? Aftermarket units are notoriously crappy, and you can grab a factory unit from CoutesyNissan for like $55 US. You might also have a faulty new unit. Disconnect the lead from the sender and ground it to the chassis. Turn the key to ON and the gauge might rise to the top slowly. This indicates a faulty sender. Could also be a broken gauge. It's been known to happen.

Rear end clunk is pretty common in these cars. You might be in the early stages. Try a search...there's about a bajillion threads on it. Hope you get it figured out.

You can try giving MSA a call and see if they have any in. It's not a part that anyone produces that I know of, so it's kinda hit or miss. Ebay's a good place to check too for NOS parts.

Check with MSA, they offer quite a few styles. www.zcarparts.com or better yet, order a catalog. The online store doesn't have all the products available.

http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=11-3063&Category_Code=SFC02

1978 Production Year 280Z - HLS30-454423, 3/78

oooo....(somewhat dirty) white interior too! All together it looks really nice. My envy level is rising. Can't help with donations though...gotta keep the bank off the title for the old house...money grubbers.

That's just plain freaking cool.

Crap. Just when I think I know what I'm talking about. Well...take that picture and mirror it in photoshop, you'll get the idea....

The engine info plate is here:

Sounds about right. I know clutch kits from www.autobarn.com for the 280Z cost from 140 to 170 depending on the brand. You should try offering it for sale for a hundred bucks or so and I bet someone will snatch it up.

Bah, I just need an automatic :paranoid: Not that I can afford one right now anyway...besides, all that doesn't work on mine is Park.

I use Firefox 1.0.6 and rarely have a problem. Most of the times the problem arises, there's an oversided picture or link in the thread...something that can't be split apart like a sentence. Of course, other times, the forums just have a hiccup.